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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone! I just joined LRO but have been active on DiscoWeb for a little while now...hoping to find some friendly advice in this neck of the internet.

I have a '95 D1, 139k, auto with tranny problems. It all began with the OT light coming on under no real load and after a short trip, 10 mins or so. I promptly got under her and noticed the badly leaking cooler lines and replaced them, all 3 w/new...which caused the leak in the cooler (in front of the radiator) to worsen so that was replaced too w/new. Problem still present.

Next thought was the tranny filter...so I went throught the rigamarole of changing that, refilling to the proper level (regular old ATF...old stuff looked good). This seemed to help a little...now she only overheats after about 30 mins of driving in fairly hot (85-90 degree w/humidity) weather. Still overheating.

My thoughts now (please, please add if I've missed something) lead me to the temp sensors or the radiator. The sensors, please correct me if I'm wrong, seem to be working...the light is off when first started, she warms up, 30 mins of driving, shifter and lines get hot to the touch, light turns on. After sitting for a while the light goes out again. The radiator...oh god please no...could it be blocked just where the ATF runs through? I really don't want to drop $500 for a new radiator and not solve my problem and she's my daily (only) driver so taking her down for more than a day to have it rodded is just not an option. The engine has NEVER overheated and I don't lose ANY coolant. Please advise?
 

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I bought my rad from RoversNorth for $379. If you're gonna buy that one from Ebay, make sure its for an Auto not manual.
It may not be your rad though, you have 2 sensors; one and the tranny line (behind the rad) and one on the transfer case. They both illuminate the same light. Id check or replace that first.
 

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Hey,

I think I ran into you (July 4th weekend). I had the green 96 D1 with rack, lights, lift and BFG ATs. We waved at each other, remember?

Anyway, I get the Rad for $349 and it's the original unit. I installed it on my white 95 D1.





 

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John C said:
Hey,

I think I ran into you (July 4th weekend). I had the green 96 D1 with rack, lights, lift and BFG ATs. We waved at each other, remember?

Anyway, I get the Rad for $349 and it's the original unit. I installed it on my white 95 D1.

Who, me? Last time I saw you was at Robesonia. I gots a 95 LWB black. I bought the ARB bumper from your bud Adrian awhile back.

The RN rad is made in the mid-east somewhere, I forget the brand name. And it isnt "genuine". But it works nice! I can drive all day long with the AC on and the temp guage stays at just below center.
 

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sven said:
Who, me? Last time I saw you was at Robesonia. I gots a 95 LWB black. I bought the ARB bumper from your bud Adrian awhile back.

The RN rad is made in the mid-east somewhere, I forget the brand name. And it isnt "genuine". But it works nice! I can drive all day long with the AC on and the temp guage stays at just below center.
No Sven, not you. I meant DiscoveringTheDisco.

How's life out in PA? You going to do Paragon with us next month?
 

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I see.
Pa is interesting to say the least, but Im having a good time!

I cant go to Paragon that weekend, we're driving to LI,Mass, and upstate NY on vacation. Trevor G was talking about going to RC this Saturday. I might go.
 

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ZF gearboxes do run hot, but it has been my experience to distrust the sensor switch. Also, as Sven (I think) pointed out, the TCase sensor and the transmisson sensor are wired in parallel, i.e., either will light the HT light. If you have, or can borrow an infrared temp tester, I'd "spot the Trans, TCase ,and line. You may not actually be running as hot as what the switch was originally intended to turn on at.
If it were running "too hot" you ATF would be black.

In the FWIW dept, the Pro-Line Radiator, sold by RN is a four pass core, and a genuine is only a three pass core. The core tubes also seem (eyeball caaliper) to be slightly larger too. My son and I put one in our RRC and it never ran so cool.

Rodding the radiator won't help the transmission cooler as that is in the left hand tank. I also don't believe in rodding a LR radiator as the core passageways are VERY small, compared to an American car's radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
John C...that was you??? Nice rig...I love that color! I've got the plain Jane white. I was so happy to get "The Wave"...I had to run right home to tell the wife...I've only owned mine since last November and it's nice to be part of the club. What are you doin up in my neck of the woods?

$349 huh?...how much for shipping to 01930? And, are we sure just replacing the radiator will solve my tranny overheating? I find it strange that only the ATF core would get clogged, don't you? Also, is that the part # (ESR 2630) on the box?...I can't find that # listed anywhere else.

From the looks of your website...I may be in touch very very soon. Have an ETA for completion? How bout a catalog?

sven...$379 at RN? They have them listed right now for $739.95!!! How'd you get that sweet deal?
 

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TerryS said:
In the FWIW dept, the Pro-Line Radiator, sold by RN is a four pass core, and a genuine is only a three pass core. The core tubes also seem (eyeball caaliper) to be slightly larger too. My son and I put one in our RRC and it never ran so cool.
Terry you're right about the 4 cores, i noticed that too. I didnt realize the stocker was only 3. So its an upgrade!
Here in central Pa, there are so many mountains and hills. My truck would overheat in hot weather when going up even the slightest incline. This rad solved all those problems. The funny thing is now, with the new rad, I can hear the viscous fan operate properly. I guess the old rad wasnt giving off enough heat to activate the VC? Overall, Im real happy with the Proline!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
TerryS said:
You may not actually be running as hot as what the switch was originally intended to turn on at.
If it were running "too hot" you ATF would be black.

Rodding the radiator won't help the transmission cooler as that is in the left hand tank. I also don't believe in rodding a LR radiator as the core passageways are VERY small, compared to an American car's radiator.
TerryS...I don't have access to a temp tester but what you're saying does make sense. I was originally thinking simple mechanical sensors...can be either "on or off", "functioning or not" but if the range of that "on or off" signal has dropped...therein could be my problem.

As far as rodding goes...they're not able to rod the tranny cooler core as well? I'm not at all familiar with the "guts" of this radiator...please enlighten my dumba$$.
 

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DiscoveringTheDisco said:
TerryS...As far as rodding goes...they're not able to rod the tranny cooler core as well? .
No, the trans cooler is a seperate fluid to fluid heat exchanger, Rodding is just that, they force a piece of wire down through each core of the air/coolant heat exchanger (radiator core) but they need a straight in/out shot, the trans cooler is a finned coil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Alrighty then...thanks to everyone who chimed in...I appreciate the sharing of knowledge.

I guess I'll try replacing the sensors first...I checked today and I can have them both for the combined cost of $60, which is much better than close to $400 for the radiator. That being said...if the problem persists I will be in touch John C.

Thanks again...Jon sends
 

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Gearbox overheatd on mine...sorted now

Guys,

I've had my '93 Disco 1, V8 for a year now. Not long after I had it the temp light came on for theAuto gearbox. Then it went off and didn't repeat for a while. Then months later it started coming on after 10 mins. Mine too has cooler lines to a separate radiator. I change the transmission fluid, applied a service kit with new filter and replaced the temp sensor. It's been solid since with no over temperature warning at all. This means I either fixed it or replaced the broken sensor with an even more broken sensor ;-)

All up, I think it cost me about 150 aussie dollars to do the job.
 
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