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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi all..
You are gonna have to bear with me on this but i am a complete novice when it comes to Range Rovers!.But i am falling in love with these vehicles!...arent they just brilliant?.LMAO!
I recently purchased a P38A Vogue 4.6 V8? (< i place a question mark here cos i'm not too sure if thats its real spec!..) from a friend.
I remember him at the time he bought this vehicle (four years ago) he stated that it was a stolen recovery!.. so DVLA had put a Q plate on it!..now i must take what he says as the truth cos i know no different..right now!..aparently the car was part of a big haul,police had seized from a ringing outfit!..anyway there were no original markings on it ..i.e V.I.N plate ...etc.. so thats why its on a Q - plate..
But this isnt the reason why i am posting on this forum!..LMAO!..stay with me guys!..lol..
2 months ago i had the rear suspension replaced..and all is well with that!..then a week and a half ago. i was buying stock in Machester i came out from my suppliers and pressed the keyfob to unlock the car ..and nothing happened!...absoloutley nothing ..i used the key in the door ..and all the car did was bleep everytime i opened and closed it!..i popped the bonnet and the damn alarm went off!..i stuck the key in the ignition and all i got was "please press remote or enter code" displayed on the green screen below the speedometer!.. all i could do was get myself recovered from Manchester to Leeds!..(courtesy of Green Flag!..LOL)..I was told by the recovery guy that there was nothing that could be done by him!..and that the car needed to be looked at by a garage!...so i recovered the car to a local garage ..who'm i use alot for my other vehicles!..the car has been there for nearly two weeks!..without any sort of progress!..i have spoken to a mate who works there and they have been using a chap who has Land Rover experience and has the diagnostic equipment!...but he cant seem to read the vehicles software!...so!..where do i go from here?..if i must i will take it to a main LR dealer!..but i thought i would post on your excellent forums (which i discovered today).. and is in my favourites ..Now!.. and see what you guys think to how i should approach this situation :dunno:
 

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Imobilization code

It sounds like your engine has immobilized. There is a lock code that has to be entered using the key in the actual door lock. If it's a NAS spec Range, then I believe the code is 1515, or 5151, I have it at home but wouldn't be able to repost with the code until tomorrow. Anyways if the code is 1515 I believe if the truck is unlocked you: lock it once (1), unlock it (5) times, lock it once (1), then unlock it (5) times. And visa versa if the truck was locked.
Like I said if no one helps you sooner I can repost tomorrow with the correct code, or atleast the web link where I got the info. There's a different code for European spec models.

And if you can't wait, or if this little trick doesn't work then I hate to say it but I'd take it/flatbed it to the dealership. Just remember it can't be standard towed with a front or rear set of wheels on the ground, it will tear something up. You'd have to remove a front/rear prop shaft accordingly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey thanks Rhino m8!..never realized that about the Towing...thats why they recovered me on a flatbed then! :) :) ..gonna remember that!.. as for the codes thanks fella if you could check on that it would be much appreciated! :D ..are these codes very specific for a certian year?..cos on ma log book the approx date of manufacture is 1999/2000.. but i am sure its a tad older than that!...is there any way that you can tell exactly how old the vehicle is?(if normal I.D. tags are missing!..i am sure that someone who has bin in the RR business for years can just look at a RR and say its a ...so un so!.or is this just wishful thinking on my behalf!..LOL!.. sorry bout all the questions but i am trying to avoid a main dealer if i can..LMAO!! :bawling:
 

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No problem on the questions, that's what this message board if for anyways. Plus most people are way more than glad to try to help out a fellow Landy owner. And by the way I'm fairly new to the whole Rover thing also. I've been on these forums for over a year but just picked up my Range 3 weeks ago.

I'll research the information for you tonight, and should have a post for you in the morning.

Can you tell me the first letters in your VIN# I can also verify build year with that. Oh and so where are you? This is a North American Spec/Standard model (NAS) correct? Or are you in Europe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks m8..I am in the UK... i will get over to the garage on friday 5th Aug ..and make a note of the chassis number!...you aint gonna believe it but the number is stamped on a rectangular peice of aluminium!..lol.. :eek: ..lol
 

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if you give me the chassis number then ill give you all the info, model,engine size,makers year etc.The access code or EKA is unique to each vehicle.
When you press the key fob button does the led flash,if not try new batteries then sincronise the key.
Im in the uk also. :drive:

If you look at any plastic bits on the car,there will be a date stamp on the back.This will will give you a rough estimate of the cars age,usually within about 12 months
 

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Stick with Shiftech, he should be able to help you out more. In the U.S. spec Range Rovers the Emergency Key Access (EKA) is disabled or something. Basically, in the U.S. everyone including dealers use a generic "1515" code, lock once, unlock 5 times, lock once, unlock 5 times.

Not to take away from this website because I love it too, but haveing a Range Rover, you should definately check out RangeRovers.net

There's lots links to parts suppliers, information on problems/maintenance, and another forum like this one specific only to Range Rovers.

That's where I got the EKA information:
http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/becm/alarm.html

Good luck. Please report results I'm sure everyone would like to know how things come out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
WoW!...thank you very much chaps you have bin so helpfull!...shiftech m8!..i have spoken to the garage (my mate) and he says he is past the code stage now!...its coming up summert else when the lad with the diagnostic stuff ..plugs in ..but apparently thats as far as he can go!..so he's consulting some he knows at Land Rover!..as soon as i get chance i will look at some of the plastic parts to confirm its age!..I dont think for one second that there is anything dodgy about the car!...and i love it soooo!..much!..i dont wanna let her go!..even if at the end of all this,it has to go to Land Rover..The wife thinks i am mad and says i should sell it !...HA!..what the hell do they know?...its a bloke thing innit?..anyway i will speak to you as sson as i know anything..i will get the chassis No as well m8...thanks for all ya help once again! :wave: ..if you guys dont mind i would love to put a picture of ma green machine as soon as i get it back!...lol...sad i know!..I'm sure you understand! :beer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey guys!..its me ..Agian!...the guy with the big green problem!.Well!..this just gets better!... I have been speaking to my mate at the garage today.. he has asked me for a chssis no...but...and its a big BUT!..apparently the number i gave him is not a chassis no.. on my log book where it says VIN/Chassis/frame no. i have the number - SABTVR03819013415 and that is all i have on my log book.. i assume that this is the reason why DVLA gave the vehicle a "Q" plate cos they could not I.D. it!...please correct me if ai am wrong guys!..Phew!.... and it gets better!.. he now says he cant go any further and that the Land Rover dealership wont be able to do anything much more than he has, apart from a complete ECU and Keys replacement!..estimated cost £2000.00!!. :bawling: .... Well!.. as you can imagine i was gutted!.. and now i am wondering what now?.. if you guys have any advise B4 i shell out £2k please let me know!...I feel i only got a few options left!..
Do you guys think i should be spending £2k on this repair?
Can i get the job done for a cheaper price elsewhere?
or
should i call it a day and save for an S3..(i dont think i could bring myself to letting her go..i love ma S2) :eek:

All i can do now is take my wife out to a resturant tonight ply her with wine ...and do what a husband has to do (once a month..LOL!) and beg for a £2k handout!...LMAO!!.. even when she's very merry ..i dont think she's gonna go with this!... :bawling:..
 

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Ok M8 you need to contact these people,They were warning people that the p38 remotes bought off places like ebay would not work on any other car without the ECU that the key was coded to.They have been working on the p38 fobs for at least 2 years that I know about,They appear to be a reputable company.
If any one can help you then it will be these guys,and it won't be at dealers prices.Try phoning them and explain your predicement.Bet they soon have you on your way :clap:

REMOTE KEY LTD

MG - ROVER - LAND ROVER ALARM & IMMOBILISER SPECIALISTS

0121 580 9090 mobile 07930 178 422

[email protected]

7 Kesterton Road Sutton Coldfield West Midlands B74 4JP
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Shift m8!..i will give these boys a go!....i am getting a bit stalled now! ..its bin going on too long :bawling: ..i miss my rangy too much!..lol..
Much appreciated for all your help fella!.. :clap:
 

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I bought my 98RR three years ago and that sounds like the same problem I had. After spending AUD $4,000 on a new ECU (which didn't fix the problem) I eventually discovered that if I parked my car too close to mobile/cellular phone towers my immobiliser would render my car useless. The remedy was (and still is) to tow the vehicle a few metres away from the scene of the problem. This problem is not unique to me by the way, its quite common here in Australia.

Of course, the best remedy is prevention - learn about those little hotspots (airports can be a problem) out there and avoid parking your car in those areas. I'm amazed (and so is the RAC) at this niggling issue. Seems ridiculous that anyone in this day and age would have to put up with something like this.

Cheers
Rick.
 

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EKA code problem .

:eek: Security/Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis 4.0/4.6/p38)

Introduction
Main System Components
Central Locking and Alarm Arming
Engine Immobilization
Unlocking, Disarming and Remobilization
Remote Handset Synchronization
EKA (Emergency Key Access)
Alternative Disarming Procedure
Security System Fault Diagnosis
More Information
Request for Input for This Page


Introduction

The designers of the Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A went overboard in the alarm and security department, presumably thinking that thieves would be keen on stealing such an expensive vehicle. Little did they realize that it would be one of the fastest depreciating vehicles ever, and the alarm system would merely be another electrical headache for owners. I have heard horror stories even about quite new Range Rovers being immobilized for weeks in the shop with alarm system problems. This page is an attempt to summarize accumulated owner knowledge on how the system operates, what the most common failures are and how to recover from them. Because the security system is so abominably complex and obscure, a better understanding of how it is supposed to operate should make fault diagnosis much easier.


I would like to thank Ron Beckett for helping compile and edit this page. If you can contribute additional information PLEASE email me!

Main System Components

BeCM, incorporating a Theft Alarm Unit (Z163) -- part of the BeCM (under right front seat).
Remote Handset.
Emergency keys (supplied with later model vehicles only).
RF Receiver (in loadspace under right rear parcel shelf) 315 MHz (North America), 433 MHz (UK and ROW).
Passive Immobilisation Coil (component Z270, surrounding the ignition switch barrel) 1996 & later NAS & some other markets.
Driver's Door Lock and "CDL" (Central Door Locking) switch.
Door lock actuators and "door open" switches on other doors, rear hatch and fuel filler.
Window and sunroof actuators and sensor switches.
Ultrasonic Volumetric Sensor (located at top of "B" pillar inside the vehicle).
Inertia Switch (behind right footwell trim panel) shuts off fuel and allows unlocking after a crash.
Under-hood alarm klaxon, and/or Battery Backed Up Alarm Sounder ("BBUS" -- some markets 1996 & later).
Central Locking and Alarm Arming

Central locking of all the doors can be done several different ways:

Pressing down either front sill locking button with the doors closed will lock all doors.
"Slam locking" (pressing a sill locking button and then closing the door) will lock all doors -- only on vehicles up to mid-1996.
Locking the driver's door with the key.
Pressing the lock button on the remote.
"All Close" locking: Holding the key in the lock position for over a second also closes the winndows and sunroof.

"Lazy Locking" (Most UK, Europe? but not NAS or Australia) -- Holding the remote button for over a second also closes the windows and sunroof.

"Superlocking" with key or remote by a double turn of the key or double press of the locking button on the remote.
Auto Relocking will occur if the vehicle is unlocked but no door openings, ignition key insertion or turn-on, or movement inside the vehicle are detected.
In cases 2 through 6 above, the alarm is armed to the "perimetric" mode in which it will be set off by opening any door, window, the rear hatch or the hood/bonnet. Engine cranking is disabled and and electronic engine immobilization is activated (more on this below).

In case 7, the "superlocking" mode energises an additional motor in each door lock actuator which disconnects the sill locking buttons so they cannot be used (e.g., by a burglar) for unlocking. If superlocking was done by the remote, and the windows and sunroof are closed, the ultrasonic volumetric alarm will also be activated. (If done by the key, a press on the remote locking button is still required before the volumetric alarm will be activated). In this mode, the alarm will be set off if any movement of a person or animal is detected inside the vehicle.

Engine Immobilization

Whenever the alarm system is armed (or, on 1996 and later models when passive immobilization is enabled -- see below -- when the ignition key is removed), the engine is immobilized. In this state, the Engine Control Module (ECM) will not operate normally unless it receives a mobilization code from the BeCM. Furthermore, if some clever thief jumpers the starter solenoid and manages to turn the engine over, it will do no good because a crank signal is detected by the engine ECM (via the engine crank sensor which is normally used to time the ignition and determine engine speed). This information is sent to the BeCM which puts an "ENGINE DISABLED" signal on the message center on the dash and continues to make it impossible to start the engine.

On 1996 and later models (UK, Europe? and some other markets, but not North America or Australia), the system was "improved" by adding a so-called "passive immobilization" feature (enabled in North America and some other markets) that activates engine immobilization whenever the key is removed from the ignition, regardless of whether or not the vehicle is subsequently locked or the theft alarm armed. A "passive immobilization coil" was added around the barrel of the ignition switch to trigger a code from the remote handset when it is inserted in the ignition, enabling remobilization (see remobilization section below). Presumably the theory behind this "improvement" is that a thief cannot start the vehicle even if you forgot to lock it and he can turn the ignition switch on without a key. (NOTE: This wonderful feature also requires you to leave the key in the ignition when changing the battery to avoid immobilization. See Battery Replacement page).


Photo above right by Ron Beckett, showing ignition switch barrel on a 1995 model, with no passive immobilization coil but with "key in" switch and wiring clearly visible. Cobwebs are due to this photo being taken in a partially dismantled vehicle at a wrecker's yard.


Unlocking, Disarming and Remobilization

The theft alarm is disarmed by pressing the unlocking button on the remote. The RF receiver located in the right hand side of the loadspace conveys this signal to the BeCm which decodes it and, if the code is correct, unlocks the doors and disarms the alarm. On 1995 models, the vehicle is then in an unarmed state.

On 1996 and later models with passive immobilization enabled (UK, Europe? but not North America or Australia), if the key is not inserted into the ignition within 30 seconds of unlocking with the remote handset or EKA procedure (see below), the BeCM reverts to the immobilized condition. The engine remains immobilized until the remote/key is inserted into the ignition, closing the "key in" switch and activating a "Passive Immobilization Coil" (Z270) around the barrel of the the ignition switch. The electromagnetic field from this coil excites a receiving coil in the remote key handset. If the remote is acting normally (for example, does not have a dead battery), it will then transmit a mobilization signal to the BeCM via the RF receiver. The BeCM then disarms the vehicle and remobilizes the engine.
On all models, when the unarmed state has been achieved, the BeCM transmits a mobilisation code to the engine ECM commencing 48 milliseconds after the ignition is turned on, and until it receives a confirmation signal from the ECM telling it to illuminate the "Check Engine" light (as an indication of correct operation) and allows engine cranking when requested. In turn, the ECM enables engine fuelling and proceeds to allow all engine controls to act normally.

Remote Handset Synchronization and Desynchronization

The remote handset uses a "rolling code" algorithm, meaning the code is changed every time remote locking or unlocking is performed. The BeCM stores the code sequence in its RAM and has a capture range of 100 codes after the previously received value, so should be able to remain synchronized with the handset unless more than 100 attempts have been made to operate the remote while out of range, or the remote's batteries are removed or die, or the vehicle's battery dies or is disconnected. That is the theory -- in real life it seems to lose synchronization more often, such as when the vehicle's RF receiver has been activated by other spurious sources of 315 MHz (or 433 MHz in other markets) transmissions.

Resynchronization is accomplished by performing a key lock or unlock within 30 seconds of requesting a remote lock, superlock, or unlock. The BeCM senses the change in state of the "CDL" (Central Door Locking) switch in the driver's door to initiate resynchronization.

On 1997 and later models (all markets?), "friendly synchronization" is provided whenever the key/remote is inserted into the ignition. The passive immobilization coil around the ignition barrel activates a pickup coil in the remote, causing the remote to transmit an unlock signal to remobilize the vehicle.

Resynchronization Exception Mystery:

The driver's handbook, shop manual and ETM all contradict their own instructions on resynchronization, stating that it cannot be achieved by the above procedures if the vehicle security system is "active" (Shop manual) or "armed" (driver's handbook). In this case, you have to resynchronize by the Emergency Key Access method (see below). These instructions do not make sense to me, since the alarm is nearly always armed if the vehicle is locked. Perhaps it means if the remote is desynchronized and the alarm has meanwhile been set off somehow, the EKA procedure has to be used for resynchronization. Or, perhaps the exception refers to when some malfunction is present. In any case, probably the best method of resynchronization is to first unlock the vehicle with the key so the alarm will be disarmed (if everything else is working right), then perform the synchronization routine. If you can shed light on this mystery, please email me.


Emergency Key Access ("EKA") Procedure
(Disarming Alarm & Starting Vehicle when Remote is Lost or Fails)
Overview and Instructions
The EKA procedure is provided as a back-up method of disarming the alarm and re-mobilizing the vehicle if all else fails. It uses a series of locks and unlocks with the key in the driver's door lock cylinder. From owner reports to date, this feature seems to be enabled on 1996 and later models in Europe, but not North America or Australia -- but see below for a generic EKA code procedure that works in North America. Iif you have more information on this please email me).


The manuals are vague and contradictory on when EKA might be necessary -- the shop manual says it is if you lock the vehicle with the remote handset and then you lose the remote or it fails. (This is understandable on models with passive immobilization which cannot be started without the remote, but the manuals are enigmatic on why this could happen on vehicles without passive immobilization). You still need the key part of the remote, or one of the spare mechanical keys supplied in later model years.

According to the manual, if the remote has failed or been lost and you try to open the door with just the mechanical key, the alarm will sound twice. (Of course, this does not make sense because you should be able to get into all models quite satisfactorily with just the mechanical key. Perhaps they are referring to situations when the remote has malfunctioned in a way that upsets the BeCM, or the alarm has been set off for some reason). If you then try to start the car, the message center will display "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE". (This part makes sense on vehicles with passive immobilization, as described above, or perhaps if the alarm has been activated).

Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note: on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized the input).


To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the doors. The alarm will now be partially disarmed; if you try to open the hood the alarm will sound. After five incorrect attempts (3 for 1996 and later models) at this procedure, the BeCM goes into a 10 minute lockout mode (30 minutes for 1996 and later models), during which time the message center displays "KEY CODE LOCKOUT" and further attempts at EKA will not work.

The EKA code is supposed to be on your "security card" but I don't have one for my vehicle and Staffan Tjernstrom, who first alerted us to this information, mentions that getting it probably involves knowing your dealer very well, and maybe a few pints of good beer! Alex Rudd informs me that he has used the EKA method to recover from alarm problems, and that in the UK you can present or fax your owner's log book (or email a photo of it) to a Range Rover dealer to prove ownership, and they will give you the code.

Update February 2005: Confusion between LHD and RHD vehicles has been reported regarding this procedure. Alex Rudd from the UK reports "I have seen quite a few versions of using the EKA code on the net, most of which are wrong (I know, I've tried them all, and waited hours during the EKA Key Lockout session!). The correct one to follow is the version from the Range Rover handbook, which starts the key code entry on the clockwise turn - most of the others I have read refer to starting on an anti-clockwise turn, which then doesn't work." I think this contradiction is due to the difference in key lock direction between LHD and RHD vehicles (Alex's is a RHD model). This was confirmed by Ian Gibree who had to use the EKA on his Dutch-plated LHD Range Rover when interference from a cell phone tower stopped his remote from working. He used the procedure in his handbook starting withteh anti-clockwise turn and it worked. Thus it seems that the first turn should always be to the "unlock" position. If anyone has further clarification of this please email me.

Generic EKA Procedure on NAS Range Rovers
The EKA feature does not seem to be enabled on US vehicles, or Australian ones, and is not mentioned in their owners' handbooks. However there does seem to be an abbreviated version of the procedure available on NAS models, intended to be known only by Land Rover dealers and using a generic code (1515) for all vehicles. One US owner with a 2000 Range Rover had his vehicle stranded with a dead battery and no remote available, but when jumpering it got the message "Engine Disabled, Press Remote". Since he did not have a remote, he managed to reactivate the vehicle using a variant of the EKA procedure that the dealer confided -- the dealer was fairly sure that almost all NAS P38's have the same EKA code, which is:
Unlock once
lock 5 times,
unlock once,
and then lock 5 times.
Aidan confirms that he found out from Land Rover that the normal EKA is not applicable to US spec P38A Range Rovers, but the generic "null" code (1515) is used. For example, when replacing a BECM it asks for the code and a null # is inputted (1515).


Alternative Disarming Procedure

Steve reports that an alternative procedure for getting the system out of disabled mode is to connect the battery when the key is in position II. If you try this please let me know the results!! (Mike Coleman reports he tried it on his UK model when he did not have the correct EKA code available, but it did not work for him).


Security System Fault Diagnosis

"ALARM FAULT" Message:
The most common cause of the "ALARM FAULT" message being displayed on the Message Center is failure of the ultrasonic sensor (located above and to the side of the driver's head) which monitors the interior of the vehicle for intruders. The BeCM does a check on this sensor every time you switch the engine off and get out. If it does not work 5 consecutive times it generates the fault message when you have tried to activate it by superlocking the vehicle. Replacement of the sensor is simple, but the problem can also be caused by a bad connection. The Ultrasonic Sensor Repair page gives more details on how to diagnose and solve these problems.


"ENGINE DISABLED" Message:
This is displayed if an attempt is made to crank the engine (e.g., by jumpering the starter solenoid) while the alarm is armed or passive immobilization is in effect. Try pressing the unlock button on the remote; if this does not work you will have to use the EKA procedure.

"ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE" Message:
This message can mean you have tried to start a vehicle that has passive immobilization (e.g., 1996 and later North American models) with a malfunctioning remote or a dead remote battery. Or for some other reason when you are trying to start the engine, the alarm system is still armed or is in a bad mood. The solution is to try the EKA procedure.

"KEY CODE LOCKOUT" Message:
This means you have made several wrong attempts to use the EKA procedure to remobilize the vehicle; wait 10 minutes (30 minutes for 1996 and later models) and try again; meanwhile carefully check the procedure and call your friendly Land Rover dealer to make sure you have the correct security code for your vehicle VIN.

False "IGNITION KEY IN" Message and inability to lock using remote:
If you keep getting the "IGNITION KEY IN" message when the key is not in, the BeCM thinks the key is in the ignition and is thoughtful enough not to let you remote lock the vehicle in case you lock your keys in. The microswitch that detects whether the key is in is probably staying in the "in" state because of the center of the lock barrel being a bit sticky. Often, just pushing on the center of the lock barrel will cause it to pop out, fixing the problem. Otherwise, just try reinserting the key and wiggling it in and out a bit to free up the mechanism. Alterenatively, you might try puffing (with an applicator) graphite powder into the lock. Usually it will free itself up -- this is much cheaper than buying a new lock!!

Inability to Disarm Alarm due to Failed, Lost or Desynchronized Remote:
The security/central locking portion of the shop manual describes a process (known as "Emergency Key Access" or EKA) for disarming the theft alarm and remobilizing the vehicle in the event that the handset fails while the vehicle is in superlocked mode. Each vehicle has a four digit EKA code which is needed for the procedure. The code is entered by turning the key the required number of times in the driver's door lock according to a prescribed sequence. For detailed information on this and the recovery procedure see the EKA Procedure section above. It might be worth a try if you are having alarm troubles.

Vehicle Battery Death While Vehicle Locked or Superlocked:
If you leave the headlights on or for some other reason the battery dies while your vehicle is locked or superlocked, strange things happen to the alarm system.

This seems to be one of the conditions that sometimes upsets the security system and requires you to use the Emergency Key Access method (see key/remote problems) to "reboot".

Another is when you jumper the battery to start the car, you can easily get locked out. When the power comes back on, the BeCM seems to try to return the vehicle to the locked state. At least one owner has reported that after gaining entry to his dead car with the manual key unlock, he put the key in the ignition and then went out and hooked up the battery jumper cables. Immediately, the vehicle locked him out. If all your keys are inside the vehicle at this point the situation is fairly bleak. So DON'T leave your keys in the vehicle if you get out. If you absolutely have to, at least leave the door or window open.

"Remote Battery Low" Message:
When you get the "Remote Battery Low" signal on the message display, take heed and renew the battery, especially if yours is a 1996 or later model with passive immobilization. On these models, if the battery dies entirely, the remote will not be able to transmit the code to the ECU to remobilize the vehicle and allow starting. (See procedure below under "weak reception from remote handset" before you give up though).
For battery replacement procedure see Key/Remote Problems and Solutions Page

Inoperability of Remote Due to Interference:
In the UK, a different frequency (433 MHz) from that in the US (315 MHz) is used for remote locking and several owners have experienced trouble using the remote to lock or unlock the vehicle when parked in places where a lot of radio interference is present, such as at airports. Joe Jeffrey reports a similar problem at his Petrol/gas filling station where there appears to be a magnetic field generated by an LPG pump which seems to interrupt not only the handset signaling the locks but also the handset talking to the BeCM when inserted into the ignition switch, preventing the car from starting. (He managed to get around this problem by manually locking the vehicle with the key in the door lock when he gets out at the station and then everything works fine when he gets back in).

The same radio frequency is also used for many remote control devices in Europe and Australia and there is the possibility that these devices may cause interference. A fix is now available (2004) from the UK dealer network in the form of an improved RF receiver, part number YWY500010, which is less subject to interference.
Photo at Right: RF Receiver for alarm system, located on top of rear seatback support under right rear parcel shelf. It is accessed by removing the parvcel shelf trim. Rear seatback latch is at top right of photo. Note connection to window antenna at bottom of picture. Photo courtesy of Ron Beckett.

Unexplained Battery Drain:
In the US, several owners have complained of unexplained battery drain when parked in certain areas like airports where a lot of RF energy is present, or in large parking lots where other vehicles with remote locking systems come and go. The problem is that the radio interference (and/or radio frequency energy from other peoples' remote locking handsets) gets received by the RF receiver which "wakes up" the BeCM from sleep mode, increasing its current drain to about one amp instead of a few milliamps. Paul Jameson of Avon Diagnostics reports that all remotes use the same frequency, and the Range Rover system does not bother to determine whether the code contained in the RF signal is a Range Rover one before waking up the BeCM. The battery can easily be dead after a few days of this. No fix seems to have been produced yet -- if you hear of one please email me. Meanwhile Jeffrey Upton came up with his own solution (he lives near Logan Airport in Boston and suffered this problem frequently). He disconnected the leads between the window RF antenna and the receiver. In this condition the remote still works fine as long as you are within a couple of feet of the vehicle, but the effect of external radio interference is eliminated!


Weak Reception from Remote Handset:
As the battery in the remote handset dies the signal it produces will become weaker. If you want or need to use the remote habdset (eg to disable the alarm) when teh barttery is weak, it is worth knowing that the antenna for the RF receiver is at the front of the right rear querter window glass. Holding the remote close to this location or even against the glass will increase your chances of successful operation.



Failure of Remote Central Locking due to Fuse Burnout:
Richard Corbett reports that his remote central locking suddenly stopped working. His local RR repairer mentioned a similar problem where one of the main fuses (60 to 80 amp ones) was blown but arced over again & was continually making & breaking within the fuse. On initial inspection of Rochard's fuses all looked OK, but when he held them up to a strong light he could see that one of the ones that provides power to the BeCM (BeCM fuses 12 thru 15) was actually blown, discoloured the plastic holder slightly & was making & breaking contact. I replaced it, problem solvered.

Unsolicited Locking and Unlocking by Remote:
I have found that the remote can sometimes easily be trigered in my pocket just by touching or bumping it. TSBartel reports a similar issue: "My 2000 Range Rover 4.0 had a tendency to repeatedly lock and unlock the doors while driving and occasionally while parked. This problem has happened twice since I've owned the car. The service personnel swear the issue is not the key fobs, but each time I've replaced the batteries and button keys (both very inexpensive) the problem has stopped within a couple of days and stayed corrected for a couple of years. Try this before going on to other, more expensive approaches. The batteries and rubber buttons should be replaced every few (3?) years anyway. Change the batteries and buttons at the dealership, you may need to reset the code on the fob - which is quite simple." For detailed info on changing the batteries and nuttons, see the key/remote problems and solutions page.

No Response to EKA Code:
I have heard one case where entering the EKA code did not have any effect, due to a bad lock switch. Jacob Lund had an unexpected battery drain and after replacing the battery the engine was disabled/locked and the remote did not work. To enable the engine and start the car he tried the EKA procedure without success. Each time he tried to start the engine after having gone through the EKA procedure the "Engine Disabled" message came up. ALso, there was no response at all when he did the EKA procedure (no clicks, no lights blinking, no signals on the dashboard, etc) only the central locking system switching on and off. After four days at an authorized service shop with a TestBook, the problem turned out to be the lock switch (the one that recognizes the turns of the key when you "enter" the EKA code manually).


I hope this might help

Saludos

Pascal
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey guys!...sorry for the delay ...but i just got her back after being stuck in ma mates garage for 4 BLOODY weeks!!...with nothing done to it!...so i rang a garage in Leeds,West Yorkshire!... a garage called Four plus 4... (www.landroverspecialists.com).. these guys are WELL switched on.. a good freind of mine reccomended them and they are so busy they couldn't even look at the car for a week...
Anyway they rang me a week and a bit later!..and said that it was the drivers side LATCH ASSEMBLY.. but because the car had been off the road 6 weeks now ..the battery was completly dead and the car wouldn't unlock, (apparently it went on to SUPERLOCK!)..so they had to charge the battery up through the Alternator?...but still the car wouldn' let them in!..(does this make sense?)..so they had to break the drivers window!.. So all in all ..i had to fork out for a LATCH ASSEMBLY,LOWER SEAL FRONT DOOR,NEW GLASS FOR SAID DOOR!..and the LABOUR!..Oh Yeah!...Labour alone was £280...total bill came to £527.00...better than £2000 quid ..eh? ..thats what the other guy was gonna charge for an ECU...PHEW!!!..I would reccomend the guys at Leeds from now on!..main guy at Four plus 4 ..is a chap called bryan..very proffesional!...now she is running fine ..I also asked bryan if there was a way to recover the original Vin/Frame/Chassis number from the main ECU...he tried but could only get the last six numbers of it!...DAMN!...I tried...

THANKS ONCE AGAIN GUYS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!...I hope this helps someone else in months / years to come!..LOL!..I have no doubt i will be posting on this forum again!.... :clap:...

One more thing!..I laugh now but i was pretty P***ed off when it happened!...i have only had her back a week!..and Saturday i was out shopping !..i came out to her from the supermarket and found loads of Glass all over the corner of the rear bumper on close inspection i found bits of Headlamp glass embedded in the plastic and chunks of plastic missing...driver didnt stop!...so i got a £100 bill for the repairs...I got a new name for the car...its JINX.......LMAO!!!!...see ya all! :bawling:
 
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