[austindiscoverybill]

Hi Guys.

First quick background.

Son was given (as in free) a pristine 2004 D2 (120K mile CA vehicle) with a slipped sleeve.

We pulled engine and did a total rebuild, starting with top hat sleeves and all the way down to polishing the crank.

Stupid as it sounds, though we replaced everything else, we did NOT replace the PCV/oil separator. We tried to remove it, it would not come out (easily), so we just left it. We even removed the baffles, did a full Berryman dip of the covers to remove all varnish (solvent ran straight thru the PCV) and even took it to a buffer wheel polished the outside to a chrome-like shine, but didn't remove the PCV body. Crazy stupid I know, but that's what we did.

Well, after 3,000 miles we have a leak at the what appears to be the rear seal. At the advice of the shop that re-machined the block and pressed in the flanged sleeves, we used genuine Land Rover parts for the front and rear mains and the cruxiforms (at 4-6x the cost of aftermarkets). Even used the Roll Royce Aircraft engine speced hylomar (sp?) sealant at $25 a tube. The rear main bearing cap fit very snug: it had to be tapped on with a mallet and piece of wood.

As we were so careful with everything except the PCV, I am wondering (hoping) whether we have pressure build-up from a blocked PCV that is causing the leak. There is NO leak at the valve covers, front or sump seal or anywhere else, just thru that "crack" at the bottom of the engine where it meets the bell housing.

So a couple of questions:

1. What the probability that pressure buildup in the engine might be the source of our leak?

2. Is it reversible? If we correct the pressure, will the rear seal "recover"? or once it is distended by pressure and fails, it will never return to its original state?

3. I have read that these PCV bodies break pretty easily, does anyone have a "trick" to removing it? Is it just held in-place with an o-ring on the valve cover or is it more complicated than that?

4. I can't seem to find a replacement PCV "body", only a replacement for the oil separator that fits inside the body. Does anyone know where I can get a PCV body as I want to be prepared when it breaks.

Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[wjsj69]

If solvent went through the pcv easily, It wasn't clogged. Remove the pcv hose and blow a little compressed air into the valve cover to make sure it didn't get clogged after cleaning somehow. It's just a plastic baffle that is easily tapped out with a punch and hammer from the inside, or pulled out with needle nose pliers from the outside. This is what it looks like: Oil Separator - Valve Cover (LLJ000010 Same Fit As Part # LLJ000010 ) - Land Rover miscellaneous from Atlantic British Don't take the "pcv body" out, it's just a metal tube pressed into the valve cover. You'll have to replace the vc after destroying the tube since there isn't a replacement.
Anyway, if it was clogged, the pressure would go through the other side (which doesn't have a separator) and to the intake. And it would be reversible if that was the problem, but I don't think it is. The new seal could've failed or torn on install, maybe someone else has an idea? Are you sure it's not trans fluid?

 

[pinchme]

Hmm I'm using an oil catch can. It actually help lessen the crank pressure and avoid unnecessary leaks.

 

[15mpg]

The advice to blow through the oil separator to check for blockage is worth the effort.
I would also blow through the associated hose with it connected to the intake, as well as the breather hose and it's connections on the other (driver's) side of the engine.
That, at least would let you know if the crankcase is venting.

If you find the oil separator to be obstructed - It can be serviced or replaced.
What I would add to the above comment about it's removal is that on the 2003 and 2004 Discoverys the body or tube holding the oil seperator is inverted compared to earlier models.
That means the tube must be removed from the valve cover to change or clean the separator.

The small hole is on the top or outside of this tube, so the only way the separator can be changed is to remove the tube from the valve cover. On these models, this will not ruin the valve cover.
I have coaxed mine out with curved jaw vice grips, guarding the tube with some leather. Griping the outer end where the restrictive cap sits will help resist crushing. First order, if you give this a try, is to get the tube to rotate.
Then just work it back and forth while lifting out. (you may want to soak with penetrant first)
The oil separator is then removed as wjsj69 has instructed.

If you find both sides of the crankcase ventilation to be free flowing, perhaps you are experiencing excessive blowby which may resolve itself with some more hours on the new rings and liners. (How many miles/hours on rebuild?)
That would be nice !

Sounds like you have done excellent work. Having those liners really takes away the biggest concern of these trucks at higher mileages.

Best Wishes