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Persistent EVAP (P0455) codes? Potential Fix. Also, Avoid Hyundai Purge Valve.

7959 Views 3 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  MR.T
***Long post, important info in red***

My 2003 D2 has had a P0455 Large Evap Leak code since the day I bought it. I tested and replaced the purge valve, the gas cap, and the leak detection pump - still came back. Car ran fine, but the light is annoying.

Yesterday I pulled my drive shafts in order to start a rebuild, and while I had them out of the way I decided to check the condition of the evap lines to see if there wasn't some glaring error.

I unplugged the purge line from the charcoal canister and blew through it. I could definitely hear a leak, but just couldn't find it. Eventually I grabbed an old cigar from my humidor, lit up, and started blowing smoke through the line. Sure enough, smoke started appearing from somewhere along the line.

I traced the rubber purge line until it transitioned to the hard line, and then I followed the hard line forward toward the engine. Sure enough, I found two sizeable holes worn into the metal hard line where it comes close the transfer case. The lines looked unmolested and all of the mounts were in place, so I figure it's just bad engineering that allowed the lines to jiggle around and rub against the transfer case, causing the two large holes.

I cut out the section of bad line and replaced it with some fuel hose and sealed it with some ring-clamps. I pressure tested the line and it held beautifully. I'll be a couple of days before I know if it worked, but I have a good feeling that it did. If you have a p0455 code that just won't go away, look into the purge line, I bet I'm not the only one.

The bad part is the damaged section was directly above the front driveshaft. It would be hard to see, much less get to with the shaft in place. Pulling the shafts "should" be easy, but my bolts were rusted (even though my chassis is pristine) so that I had to hit them with a torch followed by an impact gun to get them loose. Once it was out of the way fixing the like was easy.

A side note - a lot of guys get the Dorman purge valve available from Amazon when they're hunting this fix. Avoid it - it's ****. While the OEM one is considerably heavier and the nipples are reinforced with metal, the Dorman model is all plastic and considerably lighter. The plastic can't cope with the high temps of the LR engine bay and becomes brittle. Mine broke when I was removing it from the purge line. Also, upon testing, I found that it was seized open, causing a serious vacuum leak leading to a slew of lean/O2 codes. The quality just isn't there. Maybe the OEM Hyundai or Volkswagen units are better, but the Dorman is cheap for a reason. I put my "broken" OEM unit back in, and it works brilliantly.
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I bought the hundai purge valve, I went to autozone and checked out the Dorman one, it is noticeably cheaper in quality, the part from the actual hundai dealer seemed better like a better quality, it had a different part number (28910-22040) than the Dorman (911-800) and was like 10$ more, I felt comfortable putting in the actual hundai part. No codes, but I haven't really pulled it out to check on it, it's been in there for about a year now.
I bought an Autozone PCV valve a few months ago. It was crap and did not fix the problem. I then replaced it with a genuine LR one... the code went away immediately.
Hyundai pg is decent. Had mine in for 4 yrs now and all is well. Cleared my 455 too

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