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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I'm going to be that guy for a second. I apologize in advance. I drive a 2004 Disco SE7. I bought it used when I was in a crunch from a buy here/pay here place. Needless to say the guy ripped me off. Definitely my fault for not looking more into the vehicle but at the time I didn't know a lot about cars. I now am a locomotive mechanic so I'm quite a bit more knowledgeable and brave to tackle repairs on my own. It is imperative that I keep this vehicle running for another 6 months while I pay off some debt. I've made several repairs but I'm a stumped here and to Ben honest the codes/symptom said are too many to even list here. I've lurked around this forum for tips on the few repairs i have made and I know there are some extremely helpful guys here that i realt admire like DiscoMike that takes time to message or call people and walk them through some things. In short that isn't what I'm looking for. I honestly need to be able to just talk with someone for 20-30 minutes and lay it all out for a more knowledgeable person and figure out what my main problem is and the stuff that can wait or is inconsequential for the few miles i put on the vehicle. I'm just to the end of my rope but have to do something and ask we all know having a rover put in gen shop isn't an option for most of us. If anyone would be willing to call me and sort through women of this I wouldn't forever be indebted. I HAVE to keep this thing running and at this point there are so many small/medium issues I just need someone for 20 min to help me sort through these. Sorry in advance and any help would help me More than anyone could possibly know. Thanks y'all!
 

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Brother, I feel your pain. I wish I were more knowledgeable about these vehicles. I've only owned mine since October. My main problem is the 3 Amigos, but I know the problem is the left rear wheel speed sensor thanks to my code reader.

If you have one big problem, maybe you could mention it here and attract someone who can help. There is an unbelievable depth of knowledge here, so you're definitely in the right place.
 

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These are very simple vehicles with very low-tech engines. The engine management systems adapted to them are also very simple. Your truck doesn't have any problem that is tough to diagnose or never seen by the collection of members here.

Additionally, this isn't a one-on-one medium. By helping you on this forum, others get to learn. When you post your symptoms and, if you have them, ecm codes, others can follow along and, if nothing else, your problem/solution becomes part of the searchable archive here. If someone calls you, you may be relieved of the burden of typing, but no one else benefits. And it's probably not going to be a one-contact deal anyway. You'll be told to "look here" or "try ____" and then move to the next step once those results are in.
 

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I'm just wondering what the actual issues are...

keeping this thing "Rolling" should be easy - "Rolling Error Free" completely different.

I'm fairly suprised when I see Discovery Units in full failure...
for a Rover they actually will run with quite a few issues and fit exactly what you're looking to do...
slowly repair until budget allows.

Rovers don't = perfectly running awesomeness
More like Rover = Cool Car - does it always /make that sound/s /have that puddle underneath /shake like that?

so post up some errors and problems....

if you PM me # I'll speak with you and explain some of the things I've run into, but some others might have some even better quick fixes...

ALWAYS Good to post the errors / problems your noticing...
did you get a 4.6 / 4.0 (most have 4.0 and not many of us lucky enough to have the 4.6, but has the same issues)

Currently I've had my engine ripped out and looking at spending a small fortune just to reassemble with replaced parts... ~2x the price I paid for it.. (was salvaged so not awful but $$$s none the less)
 

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Yep, just lay it all out right here Zach, everyone's been in your shoes one way or another with these trucks. Start off with only a few codes or issues, what you think is most important right now. Don't overwhelm yourself, worse thing you can do. I'm not a fan of typing off a phone either.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok. Sorry guys I've spent the afternoon checking some things out. I have a 4.6 liter just FYI. So here are the symptoms:

- Starts fine, engine smooths out. As it sits in idle it will start to faulted. Rpms drop, vehicle begins to shake like it's going to stall. Give it some gas and it smooths out.

- So I hit the road. Within the first 5-6 minutes the rpms/power/throttle response will lag for a sec then catch up resulting in the rpms and driveability returning to normal HOWEVER accompanied by a flashing engine light. This may happen once or it may happen 2-3 times depending on how cold the engine is.

- As I come to a stop my rpms will take a dive occasionally and act like I described above. Keeping one foot on the brake and apply some throttle keeps it from stalling. Sometimes this happens and other times it idles where it should.

It has gotten noticeably worse over the past week to a point I fear it may be on its last leg. I've read here some people pointing to the idle air control valve which I was going to take apart and clean today but while at the auto parts store I had them give me a print out of all my codes none of which mention the idle control.
Here are some:

P0134/P0154 both referencing no activity detected from 02 sensor

P1129 Upstream O2 sensor connected incorrectly

P0308/P0304/P0305/P0306 All cylinder misfires

P1300 Multiple Misfires

P1171 System too lean Bank A & Bank B

There are a few more but just petty stuff.


Backstory:
I have changed plugs and wires within the last year. Truck ran like it had some water or trash in the tank around Thanksgiving so I used a few cans of sea foam and problem cleared.

Sorry for the freak out earlier. I moved to Jacksonville, Florida from Birmingham for work about a year and a half ago and I'm basically on my own here. All family is a good ways away and this god forsaken truck is what gets me to work everyday. Was just feeling the stress of Rover probs. Hope this helps. Any more question feel free to ask.
 

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4.6 NICE

MAF...

(just had a thought - what plug wires did you use? and loose strap on block? not even sure if that would cause that though)

I ran mine like that for months (4.0 though) thinking plugs and O2 Sensors...
ended up being a darn MAF... $100 at Autozone done... (had to go to 4 different stores to fine one though - think it was cardone - junk but works)
Real one is ~$140 - what is odd is that it never threw an MAF code like it had in the past or it was just one of many codes...

that said - needing to keep costs down
it will run but will continue to push crap down and actually tear up more...

so if it gets worse...

o2 sensors 4x @ ~$90 (they do go on sale occasionally though)

Mine was also tapping / knocking / Ticking really bad...
on the tear down - really only two bad lifters... but now doing a whole lot more since its open and all...
 

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Never seen the wired backwards O2 sensor code, but I to would lean towards a MAF.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I haven't replaced the 02 sensors. Most of the work I have done was related to plugs and wires and a rebuild of most of the coolant system. Mine also taps when it's really hot outside.I was told by someone I trust that it's just lifter noise. I'm guessing it's the O2 sensors but since it shows neither are reading it makes me wonder if it's the wiring to the computer or maybe even the computer itself. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok so about the MAF. I have a couple missing clamps where the top of the air filter box clamps on and one of them happens to be one of the ones that clamp where the MAF feeds into it. Still has one and it fairly tight but obviously not airtight. Could this be an issue?

Also I read in some other threads about cleaning the MAF and even saw some MAF cleaner today when I was about to buy carb cleaner to clean the idle air control valve. Is this an option?
 

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is the missing clamp before or after the MAF?
 

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Ok so about the MAF. I have a couple missing clamps where the top of the air filter box clamps on and one of them happens to be one of the ones that clamp where the MAF feeds into it. Still has one and it fairly tight but obviously not airtight. Could this be an issue?

Also I read in some other threads about cleaning the MAF and even saw some MAF cleaner today when I was about to buy carb cleaner to clean the idle air control valve. Is this an option?
mines got two missing MAF clamps and it runs fine. im new to rovers but defaulting back to my experience with fords, the rough idle makes me think bad coil packs or a loose vacuum line somewhere. youve already done wires and plugs, coils are 50-60 bucks at oreilleys, couldnt hurt :dunno:
 

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Ok. Sorry guys I've spent the afternoon checking some things out. I have a 4.6 liter just FYI. So here are the symptoms:

- Starts fine, engine smooths out. As it sits in idle it will start to faulted. Rpms drop, vehicle begins to shake like it's going to stall. Give it some gas and it smooths out.

- So I hit the road. Within the first 5-6 minutes the rpms/power/throttle response will lag for a sec then catch up resulting in the rpms and driveability returning to normal HOWEVER accompanied by a flashing engine light. This may happen once or it may happen 2-3 times depending on how cold the engine is.

- As I come to a stop my rpms will take a dive occasionally and act like I described above. Keeping one foot on the brake and apply some throttle keeps it from stalling. Sometimes this happens and other times it idles where it should.

It has gotten noticeably worse over the past week to a point I fear it may be on its last leg. I've read here some people pointing to the idle air control valve which I was going to take apart and clean today but while at the auto parts store I had them give me a print out of all my codes none of which mention the idle control.
Here are some:

P0134/P0154 both referencing no activity detected from 02 sensor

P1129 Upstream O2 sensor connected incorrectly

P0308/P0304/P0305/P0306 All cylinder misfires

P1300 Multiple Misfires

P1171 System too lean Bank A & Bank B

There are a few more but just petty stuff.


Backstory:
I have changed plugs and wires within the last year. Truck ran like it had some water or trash in the tank around Thanksgiving so I used a few cans of sea foam and problem cleared.

Sorry for the freak out earlier. I moved to Jacksonville, Florida from Birmingham for work about a year and a half ago and I'm basically on my own here. All family is a good ways away and this god forsaken truck is what gets me to work everyday. Was just feeling the stress of Rover probs. Hope this helps. Any more question feel free to ask.
People get new replacement parts and think "that's that, move on to the next part of diagnosis." IDK if it's mostly with imports or across the board but it's fairly common to have a faulty part right out of box, espc the cheap, aftermarket goods. People have experienced 1,2 or even 3 Oxygen/MAF/crank sensor, water pump, camshaft, Etc non-working off-the-shelf. You have to check that each spark plug has fire.

Did you replace the plugs & wires personally/DIY?? There are 4 bolts that secure the coil pack mounting bracket & you must have 2 on bottom, 2 on top and tight or you will have misfires! You shouldn't even be driving the vehicle in this condition. I would go far as to say the catalytic converters are trashed and that will surely result in the current situation. Start with the bolts, are all 4 present and secure??
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I will get back to some of these posts this afternoon I am currently headed in to work. Thanks for all the input. Y'all are the best. Side note if anyone needs help keeping your personal locomotives running I'm your guy. I know we all have 1 or 2 laying around the garage. ?
 

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I would look at the coils. Make sure they have all the mounting bolts present as this has been noted to cause problems. The fact that it needs to warm up a bit before the problem presents does point to a coil. The misfires could be causing all the other codes including the O2. And check the ground strap between the left head and the firewall.

I would not clean the IAC valve. More likely you'll do more harm than good.

Don't pay $90 for an O2. Check Rockauto.com You may find that you'll need them after going down the coil path. You don't cite mileage, but being either 13 or 14 years old, I'm going to guess the truck is at least in the mid-100K range and they're probably originals. If the truck has missing heat shields, which I have seen more than once recently, it could have melted leads/connectors. Or they could be saturated with oil as these engines are known to leak.
 

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How many miles on the truck? Any overheating? Check maf and o2 sensors... what kind of fuel are you using? What kind of spark plugs did you use? I have heard of people using spark plugs from autozones recommended lines and they were trash... just a thought

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