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I moved to the UK about 2 years ago and since I had alsways been a LR fan I went ahead and bought an 86' 90 and have loved it ever since. However, I am now moving again and know that I can only import one through customs that is 25 years old or older. I have started looking into which ones I could bring back with me and I found a fully restored, Right Hand Drive, Series III 109", 5 Door Station Wagon that I like. The only problem I have is that I am mvoing to Alaska and I'm not sure how well the will work in that environment. Any advice or words of wisdom would be great. Also, if you do suggest doing it, then what type of mods would you suggest getting done in order to make it a bit more bearable?

Cheers,

bgamej
 

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bgamej,
There are people that I've met on other BBSs that have series rovers in Alaska...so you're not venturing into the unknown.

Where in Alaska can be very important. Anchorage's climate isn't that different from where I am, but Fairbanks can get very cold, and Point Barrow borders on the unthinkable.

However, assuming you are going to live in a relatively populated area, make sure your heater is up to snuff...as well as your electrical system. I'd say breaking down when it's -20F isn't good.

Get a block heater.

Use synthetic oils.

Bogatyr
 

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In theory, every Land Rover comes out the factory ready to work at -20 degrees centigrade (-4 F if I've got my mental arithmetic right), providing you use the right oils.

I'm presuming you'll be importing a petrol-engined Landy, which has no problems working in the cold. An electric pre-heater of some sort would be a good investment.

Or, you could go for the fuel-fired heater (Eberspacher is a good brand), which will warm up the engine AND the interior, as well as pumping some heat into the back of the vehicle (the back a 109 is a long way from the heater vents).

The standard Land Rover heater (on a SIII) is good as long as its in good condition (which many aren't). The fan and matrix needs to be clean and the whole system free from air locks.

The British Army had Artic-spec heaters made for its Series IIIs, and these still turn up from time to time, and apparantly work very well, but they fill the cabin with heater hose and vents.

Jack
 

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Jack,

The temperatures in which they were discussing was in F, not C. As a matter of fact, it isn't unusual for the temp to dip to -40F in that area. An interesting note to share. The first year I bought my Disco 2 I drove it to Fargo North Dakota (USA) in January and it was bitterly cold. So cold that the outside temperature display on the Disco pegs at -22 F (found that out from the dealer since I thought it was broken). The actual outside temp was -43 that week. The Disco (while it made very, very bad noises) started right up and didn't have any issues. Not sure how well the older Landies handle that climate though.
 

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Holy Cow!!! people live in places where it gets that cold!!!!! Geez, I hate it in winter over in here in Oz when it gets to about 10 degrees C. Crazy! I need that nice warm sun and I think the landie does too.
I picked up a cheap digital camera today, so I will have to get some photos of my beast up on the web soon.
Dick
 

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Moving to Achorage

The most important thing to remember here too, is that both Anchorage and Fairbanks have emission control testing requirements. I saw that Anchorage (and the surrounding areas) requires vehicles 1968 and newer to pass these tests. Fairbanks requires 1975 and newer.

I didn't drive mine this winter because after bringing it home in September and feeling the cold wind coming through the front vents, I knew that it was in no way ready to be driven at -50F. I also wasn't sure how effective the winterizations were...frost plug heater, oil pan heater, battery blanket/heater, etc. I am also thinking of installing a trickle charger on it for the winter months, to help keep the battery fully charged, if I ever get the courage to drive it at those temps.

Good luck and let us know what you decide to bring!
 

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It has been a few years since I lived up north but my memory contains fond memories and is still very clear on a few things.
Very sound advice from jozg44 when he (she?) said... you could go for the fuel-fired heater (Eberspacher is a good brand), which will warm up the engine AND the interior, as well as pumping some heat into the back of the vehicle ... Most Americans and Canadians don't know about these handy little heaters. If you are still in the UK, pick one up and install it before you export. Expensive but cheap compared to prices on this side of the pond.

You want (must have)
1. Engine heater, recirculating type.
2. Battery warmer.
3. Interior warmer.
4. Fresh brake & clutch fluid. (it absorbs water & if so, they don't work)
5. Good seals on the bulkhead vents and doors.
6. Good seals on the windows.
7. Duck tape installed early in the season on the window seals because they aren't good enough.
8. Insulation in the doors, roof, floor & bulkhead.
9. Small ice scraper for the interior windows.
10. 6" squeege for the inside windows because it isn't always below freezing.
11. Good windshield washers and good windshield anti-freeze.
12. M & S tires because All Season aren't good enough.

You'll find out the rest. (like the extention cord you will need)

Greg S
 

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Exporting to the US.

I've just moved from the UK to US and if you're fully prepared it's not too traumatic! I imported my Landy on a Roll on-roll off ferry via Newark NJ, and handled all the import paperwork myself. Then drove up to Orono, Maine.
I had to explain some of the reg's to the Customs officer though, so be warned they don't always know what they're doing!

If you own the vehicle for less than 12 months you will probably have to pay an import tax on it. It has to be over 25 years to skip the DOT safety standards, and over 21 years to skip the emission standards.

For shipping I used these guys (http://www.karmanshipping.co.uk/). Good folks who know their stuff. Their website also has some really good links to relavent Customs/DOT sites. I made many enquiries about door-to -door shipment, but the answer was either NO or stupid money. One point to consider is that I had my tools, jumper cables etc stollen from my Landy during shipping, so I'd recomend sending it entirely empty if you ship via this method. A container is more secure, but costs a lot more.

Hope this helps,

Moses.
 
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