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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
please excuse my lack of knowledge here,

what type of gear oil does the transfer case take? (a & b) should there not be a gasket between the torque converter and oil pan? does any1 have a good/better (not best) recommendation for prop and drive shaft replacement? Is it true the stock u-joints can fuse-weld themselves together and seize without warning??!

the drips im finding on the torque converter do not smell of gear oil but i find it very difficult to believe the motor oil drip is finding its way all the way back there from highway speed...


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Gear oil - it is stated in the owners manual under specifications, as well as in the RAVE (linked below - super useful).

It specifies 75W-90 gear oil for the transfer case, rated at API GL-5 or better.
I’ve used any ATF good for Dexron III in the auto gearbox and haven’t had any issues.

Here’s a link to the repair manual system for the D2, which should give you all the data and repair procedures you’ll ever need: Where to go to download Rave

Yes, the front driveshaft u joints can and will seize up from exhaust heat baking the grease out of it. Happened on mine before I got it. Put a massive crack in my transmission, and I’m going to need to replace it at some point to stop the leaks. At higher speeds, it will put a hole in the transmission and you’ll need a new one right then. It can also take out the exhaust and wiring in the vicinity.
Good enough, not recommended though - decent junkyard driveshaft
Better - rebuilt it with new greaseable u joints (what I would do)
Best - Tom Woods front shaft
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gear oil - it is stated in the owners manual under specifications, as well as in the RAVE (linked below - super useful).

It specifies 75W-90 gear oil for the transfer case, rated at API GL-5 or better.
I’ve used any ATF good for Dexron III in the auto gearbox and haven’t had any issues.

Here’s a link to the repair manual system for the D2, which should give you all the data and repair procedures you’ll ever need: Where to go to download Rave

Yes, the front driveshaft u joints can and will seize up from exhaust heat baking the grease out of it. Happened on mine before I got it. Put a massive crack in my transmission, and I’m going to need to replace it at some point to stop the leaks. At higher speeds, it will put a hole in the transmission and you’ll need a new one right then. It can also take out the exhaust and wiring in the vicinity.
Good enough, not recommended though - decent junkyard driveshaft
Better - rebuilt it with new greaseable u joints (what I would do)
Best - Tom Woods front shaft


thank you sir
 

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As for the leaks - mine looks almost identical underneath. Both the front and rear engine main seals are leaking on mine, and yes, it does make it back that far from driving on the highway. I haven’t bothered to deal with it - if it’s leaking oil, that means it has oil in it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As for the leaks - mine looks almost identical underneath. Both the front and rear engine main seals are leaking on mine, and yes, it does make it back that far from driving on the highway. I haven’t bothered to deal with it - if it’s leaking oil, that means it has oil in it!


im looking at




and




to solve my drive shaft issues. my rear is the original and is rusting and the front looks like it was replaced around 50k miles ago. i think the truck has a 2" lift and saving $$$ over the toms woods will be ok...
 

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i got my piston sleeve to stop clacking.... one can of restore when we got the truck, and one can after its first badly needed oil change


If that helped it probably doesn’t have a dropped sleeve… these things make awful noises from many different places if they aren’t taken care of. Mine wasn’t taken care of either and the ticking ended up being lifters. Do you have a video of the noise?
 

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Driveshaft stuff -
Front one is the important one. Its proximity to the cat means you’re gonna want something good and greaseable.
The links you gave both seem like good options, especially the rear one. Front one might work, but if you want to keep the thing forever, you’re gonna want the Tom Woods shaft. It is worth noting that I have a regular factory replacement front shaft (not greaseable, came with the truck) and a 2 inch Terrafirma medium duty lift and it’s ok, but worth upgrading if you’re gonna spend the money. You can likely get away with the one you listed though
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Driveshaft stuff -
Front one is the important one. Its proximity to the cat means you’re gonna want something good and greaseable.
The links you gave both seem like good options, especially the rear one. Front one might work, but if you want to keep the thing forever, you’re gonna want the Tom Woods shaft. It is worth noting that I have a regular factory replacement front shaft (not greaseable, came with the truck) and a 2 inch Terrafirma medium duty lift and it’s ok, but worth upgrading if you’re gonna spend the money. You can likely get away with the one you listed though

The front I listed is fully greasable… slightly better than stock..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Driveshaft stuff -
Front one is the important one. Its proximity to the cat means you’re gonna want something good and greaseable.
The links you gave both seem like good options, especially the rear one. Front one might work, but if you want to keep the thing forever, you’re gonna want the Tom Woods shaft. It is worth noting that I have a regular factory replacement front shaft (not greaseable, came with the truck) and a 2 inch Terrafirma medium duty lift and it’s ok, but worth upgrading if you’re gonna spend the money. You can likely get away with the one you listed though

the extended yolks aren’t a problem, right?? They’re not too far out are they?
 

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The front I listed is fully greasable… slightly better than stock..
Yeah that’s what I would probably get. Tom Woods is better, but I’m sure that’s a good budget solution.
the extended yolks aren’t a problem, right?? They’re not too far out are they?
No idea. Hopefully someone else can chime in. I have a 2 inch lift on mine and haven’t had any issues with the stock shaft. I will say it does vibrate between 45 and 50 but I believe that’s because the tires are heavier than stock. Common apparently
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I spoke with Lucky8 today - and they said my planned purchase should be A-Ok - $480 later, theyre on the way with a nut and bolt kit to complete the upgrade (my wife found a 15% coupon code online prior to checking out - it basically wiped the taxes) - stay tuned - Ill post pics of the changes
 

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I thought I’d offered a driveshaft for $200. Apparently not. Maybe this one will make it onto my son’s truck.:)

I also offer a bolt kit that uses socket head cap screws and low profile nylon insert locknuts for ease and speed of install.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I thought I’d offered a driveshaft for $200. Apparently not. Maybe this one will make it onto my son’s truck.:)

I also offer a bolt kit that uses socket head cap screws and low profile nylon insert locknuts for ease and speed of install.



lucky8 was out of stock on front shafts and had no idea when they might arrive - could be 3 weeks could be three months - so we upgraded to the toms woods in the front - thank you for the offer
 

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For the accuracy of discussions, regardless of how some suppliers or owners are naming them i'd like to clarify that there is a big difference between a drive shaft and a prop shaft as the drive shafts are within the axles while the prop shafts are connected to the axle's diff,

these are prop shafts


nr 5 is drive shaft and i doubt that this topic is about these

Font Auto part Parallel Art Elbow
 
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