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2003 Discovery 2 SE7
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Gear oil - it is stated in the owners manual under specifications, as well as in the RAVE (linked below - super useful).

It specifies 75W-90 gear oil for the transfer case, rated at API GL-5 or better.
I’ve used any ATF good for Dexron III in the auto gearbox and haven’t had any issues.

Here’s a link to the repair manual system for the D2, which should give you all the data and repair procedures you’ll ever need: Where to go to download Rave

Yes, the front driveshaft u joints can and will seize up from exhaust heat baking the grease out of it. Happened on mine before I got it. Put a massive crack in my transmission, and I’m going to need to replace it at some point to stop the leaks. At higher speeds, it will put a hole in the transmission and you’ll need a new one right then. It can also take out the exhaust and wiring in the vicinity.
Good enough, not recommended though - decent junkyard driveshaft
Better - rebuilt it with new greaseable u joints (what I would do)
Best - Tom Woods front shaft
 

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As for the leaks - mine looks almost identical underneath. Both the front and rear engine main seals are leaking on mine, and yes, it does make it back that far from driving on the highway. I haven’t bothered to deal with it - if it’s leaking oil, that means it has oil in it!
 

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i got my piston sleeve to stop clacking.... one can of restore when we got the truck, and one can after its first badly needed oil change


If that helped it probably doesn’t have a dropped sleeve… these things make awful noises from many different places if they aren’t taken care of. Mine wasn’t taken care of either and the ticking ended up being lifters. Do you have a video of the noise?
 

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Driveshaft stuff -
Front one is the important one. Its proximity to the cat means you’re gonna want something good and greaseable.
The links you gave both seem like good options, especially the rear one. Front one might work, but if you want to keep the thing forever, you’re gonna want the Tom Woods shaft. It is worth noting that I have a regular factory replacement front shaft (not greaseable, came with the truck) and a 2 inch Terrafirma medium duty lift and it’s ok, but worth upgrading if you’re gonna spend the money. You can likely get away with the one you listed though
 

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The front I listed is fully greasable… slightly better than stock..
Yeah that’s what I would probably get. Tom Woods is better, but I’m sure that’s a good budget solution.
the extended yolks aren’t a problem, right?? They’re not too far out are they?
No idea. Hopefully someone else can chime in. I have a 2 inch lift on mine and haven’t had any issues with the stock shaft. I will say it does vibrate between 45 and 50 but I believe that’s because the tires are heavier than stock. Common apparently
 

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For the accuracy of discussions, regardless of how some suppliers or owners are naming them i'd like to clarify that there is a big difference between a drive shaft and a prop shaft as the drive shafts are within the axles while the prop shafts are connected to the axle's diff,

these are prop shafts


nr 5 is drive shaft and i doubt that this topic is about these

View attachment 94525
Naming conventions are fun and get confusing when people from different countries are engaged in the same discussion. Over in the US we call prop shafts driveshafts and driveshafts axle shafts or half shafts.
 

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Welcome, it's from the LR workshop manual which you should have if you want to rebuild things
Agreed. Linked it for OP in post 4 on this thread
 

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OK OK - the front toms woods is in!! the rear however - i might have bit off more than i can chew... - how do i get the stock pinion flange out from the rear diff??
That’s quite the project. Been a while since I’ve done that (old Ford 8.8 rear end), but I remember it being kind of a nightmare. Someone whos done it on one of these can hopefully chime in. Take a look through the service manual and see if you can find the procedure in there. Those instructions are usually quite good
 

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both are in! toms woods in the front and rubber bushing delete in the rear - any one want my old ones?? or the rubber bushing?
Looks good. Make sure to keep the grease points greased!
 

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do you know what the trans fluid capacity is? im half way thru pulling the oil pan off and need to remove the trans cooler lines to get to the last couple bolts... so i thought id do the trans filter kit and fluid while im at it..
About 7 quarts, but you don’t need to know how much to put in (other than to make sure you bought enough). There’s no dipstick or full from the top. What you do is you start the truck, take out the hex plug on the front of the pan, and use a large suction tube to put in fluid until it starts running out. Then it’s full. The fluid pump in the trans sucks up the fluid as you add it.

Also DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANS COOLER LINES!!! Just move them out of the way as best you can to get the bolts. Replacing the trans cooler lines is literally more of a pain in the ass than any job on the whole truck if you’re removing them all the way
 

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how can i move them without bending or cracking them?
There's a tiny little bracket under there that holds the line by the oil pan bolts that uses an 8 or 10mm screw (can't remember which). Pull that off. Then move the lines just enough (they move a little with that bracket off) to get a socket on the bolts for the oil pan. Be careful with it - you will have to move the pan around a good bit to get it out and jack the front of the truck up a good bit to get it to clear the pickup tube when removing it. Move the lines as little as possible to get it out. It will come out with patience.
 

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i think i got it clean enough to put back in and picked away enough of the old rtv

am I supposed to use RTV to put it back together??
Nope there's a gasket for it. Make sure the surface is basically perfect or it won't seal.
 

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Hose everything down the brake cleaner and get it nice and clean. Then inspect. Could honestly be coming from anywhere. I don't believe the hole you are describing goes anywhere, although the dipstick location could be a source of a leak, although I haven't had it leak there on mine, and I don't remember there being an o-ring on it.

Also not a bad idea to check the PCV system while you are at it - fire up the truck and take the oil cap off when it's running - it should suck air in through the filler tube. If it is blowing air out or steady (if you aren't sure hold a piece of paper over it), you have a bad PCV valve (or a different issue, but that's most common). If your PCV isn't working properly, crank pressure can and will blow oil past seals, even if they are in decent shape.
 

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this plug looking bolt
Unlikely. I don't even remember that bolt on mine, but it's been a while since I've been under it doing major work
what about the back side of the filter mount? against the block? is there a gasket there? is it safe to make one?
It's an o-ring on the housing, not a gasket. They don't really go bad as far as I can tell. Mine was still mint when I pulled it off.
Maybe your oil filter isn't sealing properly? Did you check for double seals and swap it out to eliminate that as a possibility?

Also likely that it could be front main seal. Does it sling oil off the crank while running?
 

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Double seals? Like as of an old filter seal broke off and was left behind?

it is a new filter.. and I cleaned the housing pretty well before putting it on

No to spraying from the crank, also Behind the pulley on the Block and the pulley itself look bone dry

I really think it’s the o-ring on the housing or that bolt plug whatever the hall that thing is
Yeah sometimes the seals on the oil filter get left behind and people don’t notice since it’s tucked way up in there
Yeah pull that housing off to inspect. It’s like 3 bolts I think
 
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