[V50_M66]

For the accuracy of discussions, regardless of how some suppliers or owners are naming them i'd like to clarify that there is a big difference between a drive shaft and a prop shaft as the drive shafts are within the axles while the prop shafts are connected to the axle's diff,

these are prop shafts

nr 5 is drive shaft and i doubt that this topic is about these

View attachment 94525

Naming conventions are fun and get confusing when people from different countries are engaged in the same discussion. Over in the US we call prop shafts driveshafts and driveshafts axle shafts or half shafts.

 

[discovering]

The front I listed is fully greasable… slightly better than stock..

They're better than stock if you keep them greased. They should have come with a grease interval recommendation which I think is 5,000 or 6,000 miles. Don't forget or they won't last long.

 

[sierrafery]

Naming conventions are fun and get confusing when people from different countries are engaged in the same discussion. Over in the US we call prop shafts driveshafts and driveshafts axle shafts or half shafts.

IMO it woud be better to call them as the vehicle's builder named them though

 

[jordanwexler]

For the accuracy of discussions, regardless of how some suppliers or owners are naming them i'd like to clarify that there is a big difference between a drive shaft and a prop shaft as the drive shafts are within the axles while the prop shafts are connected to the axle's diff,

these are prop shafts

nr 5 is drive shaft and i doubt that this topic is about these

View attachment 94525

if #5 is the drive shaft, whats the drive axle??

 

[jordanwexler]

For the accuracy of discussions, regardless of how some suppliers or owners are naming them i'd like to clarify that there is a big difference between a drive shaft and a prop shaft as the drive shafts are within the axles while the prop shafts are connected to the axle's diff,

these are prop shafts

nr 5 is drive shaft and i doubt that this topic is about these

View attachment 94525

this schematic is going to help me so much with the rebuild. thank you

 

[jordanwexler]

They're better than stock if you keep them greased. They should have come with a grease interval recommendation which I think is 5,000 or 6,000 miles. Don't forget or they won't last long.

if they wwere in stock - i had to upgrade to the toms woods - the standard upgrade is stuck on a slow boat from china with no date of arrival - wife was not patient or pleased with this info

 

[jordanwexler]

Lucky 8 was not the greatest at explaining the purchase - they did NOT prorate the front package as they said they would when upgrading from the better stock one to the toms, they did not explain the nuts and bolts kit. multiple times i asked for 16 of each and they did not explain their opinion of a full hardware kit was 8 bolts and 16 nuts. they did not offer a tracking number from toms woods for the drop ship. get the shaft direct from toms....

Custom Drive Shaft Shop | Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts

Trail Tested, Competition Proven, Show Quality Driveshafts and Slip Yoke Eliminators for Jeep Wranglers, Cherokees, Ford Broncos and more.

4xshaft.com

 

[sierrafery]

this schematic is going to help me so much with the rebuild. thank you

Welcome, it's from the LR workshop manual which you should have if you want to rebuild things

 

[V50_M66]

Welcome, it's from the LR workshop manual which you should have if you want to rebuild things

Agreed. Linked it for OP in post 4 on this thread

 

[jordanwexler]

OK OK - the front toms woods is in!! the rear however - i might have bit off more than i can chew... - how do i get the stock pinion flange out from the rear diff??

 

[jordanwexler]

also, whatever that cotton bushing is in the bottom left corner of this pic - lucky8 did not include it in my kit...

 

[V50_M66]

OK OK - the front toms woods is in!! the rear however - i might have bit off more than i can chew... - how do i get the stock pinion flange out from the rear diff??

That’s quite the project. Been a while since I’ve done that (old Ford 8.8 rear end), but I remember it being kind of a nightmare. Someone whos done it on one of these can hopefully chime in. Take a look through the service manual and see if you can find the procedure in there. Those instructions are usually quite good

 

[jordanwexler]

got it

 

[jordanwexler]

both are in! toms woods in the front and rubber bushing delete in the rear - any one want my old ones?? or the rubber bushing?

 

[V50_M66]

both are in! toms woods in the front and rubber bushing delete in the rear - any one want my old ones?? or the rubber bushing?

Looks good. Make sure to keep the grease points greased!

 

[94rangerover]

Naming conventions are fun and get confusing when people from different countries are engaged in the same discussion. Over in the US we call prop shafts driveshafts and driveshafts axle shafts or half shafts.

Hmmm
They are called prop shafts short for propeller shafts, in the Uk. In the US they are called Drivelines and axles are called well, axles. The whole "shaft" idea comes from across the pond. I never heard of any confusion until I bought a range rover. Thats when we got the shaft!

 

[jordanwexler]

Gear oil - it is stated in the owners manual under specifications, as well as in the RAVE (linked below - super useful).

It specifies 75W-90 gear oil for the transfer case, rated at API GL-5 or better.
I’ve used any ATF good for Dexron III in the auto gearbox and haven’t had any issues.

Here’s a link to the repair manual system for the D2, which should give you all the data and repair procedures you’ll ever need: Where to go to download Rave

Yes, the front driveshaft u joints can and will seize up from exhaust heat baking the grease out of it. Happened on mine before I got it. Put a massive crack in my transmission, and I’m going to need to replace it at some point to stop the leaks. At higher speeds, it will put a hole in the transmission and you’ll need a new one right then. It can also take out the exhaust and wiring in the vicinity.
Good enough, not recommended though - decent junkyard driveshaft
Better - rebuilt it with new greaseable u joints (what I would do)
Best - Tom Woods front shaft

do you know what the trans fluid capacity is? im half way thru pulling the oil pan off and need to remove the trans cooler lines to get to the last couple bolts... so i thought id do the trans filter kit and fluid while im at it..

 

[V50_M66]

do you know what the trans fluid capacity is? im half way thru pulling the oil pan off and need to remove the trans cooler lines to get to the last couple bolts... so i thought id do the trans filter kit and fluid while im at it..

About 7 quarts, but you don’t need to know how much to put in (other than to make sure you bought enough). There’s no dipstick or full from the top. What you do is you start the truck, take out the hex plug on the front of the pan, and use a large suction tube to put in fluid until it starts running out. Then it’s full. The fluid pump in the trans sucks up the fluid as you add it.

Also DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANS COOLER LINES!!! Just move them out of the way as best you can to get the bolts. Replacing the trans cooler lines is literally more of a pain in the ass than any job on the whole truck if you’re removing them all the way

 

[jordanwexler]

About 7 quarts, but you don’t need to know how much to put in (other than to make sure you bought enough). There’s no dipstick or full from the top. What you do is you start the truck, take out the hex plug on the front of the pan, and use a large suction tube to put in fluid until it starts running out. Then it’s full. The fluid pump in the trans sucks up the fluid as you add it.

Also DO NOT REMOVE THE TRANS COOLER LINES!!! Just move them out of the way as best you can to get the bolts. Replacing the trans cooler lines is literally more of a pain in the ass than any job on the whole truck if you’re removing them all the way

how can i move them without bending or cracking them?

 

[V50_M66]

how can i move them without bending or cracking them?

There's a tiny little bracket under there that holds the line by the oil pan bolts that uses an 8 or 10mm screw (can't remember which). Pull that off. Then move the lines just enough (they move a little with that bracket off) to get a socket on the bolts for the oil pan. Be careful with it - you will have to move the pan around a good bit to get it out and jack the front of the truck up a good bit to get it to clear the pickup tube when removing it. Move the lines as little as possible to get it out. It will come out with patience.