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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'll be replacing the shocks and springs on my 97 Disco with OME stuff. Does anyone have any Tactics tips or techniques that may help me along? Also I pulled some stuff on the net that says this is a pretty easy modification. Is this true.

Thanks in advance
 

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Welcome to this site first of all. Tips for removing are to spray all of the bolts down with wd-40 or similar the night before. I did that a couple of nights before I took mine apart and everything came off pretty easy.

Spring compressors might help to get the old out and new in but aren't necessary altogether. When I did mine, I replaced all the links and radius arms so I just unbolted everything, alowing the axle to drop enough to fit the new springs.

Not a difficult job by any means. I just took a little longer, as I've never worked on a rover before and I always find myself spending time cleaning the undercarraige while i'm in there.
 

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It is easy...... I'd get a can of PBblaster to help remove the bolts.... Grab a few :beer: and go have fun for an hour or two.... :wave:
 

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the job is relatively easy and straight forward. its not the most comfortable thing to do if its your first time, but its a great way to make a conneciton with your rover. the only thing that gave me trouble was the front shocks. the front shocks are difficult to remove because they rotate when you try to losen the bolts. i remedied this problem with a channel lock on the shock body while loosening the lower shock bolt.
 

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Fairly easy, and you will curse and skin up a couple of knuckles before you are done, but it will be well worth it.
Mike J.
 

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You can undo the swaybars to allow the axles to drop further down, so you won't need a spring compressor. Agree with the PBblaster tip, that stuff works miracles on rusty old bolts. If you don't plan on reusing the front shocks the channel locks to hold the shock from rotating are a must. If anyone reading this that needs to swap the front shock to replace a bushing and reuse their shocks could use a strap wrench to hold the shock from turning without damage.

Post up some pics of your truck when your done.

Have fun! :drink1:
 

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I like the PB Blaster or WD40 idea... penetrating oil on bolts is always nice if you have the time to plan ahead.

If you can place the front or back on frame stands (depends on which you are working on at the time). Remove those wheels, obviously. If you have coil compressors... great.... Put a jack under one side and jack up the suspension till you see it start lifting the frame. Place the coil compressor on the spring and let the jack down... BAM your spring is loose. Easier than manually compressing those springs. Do that on each to remove.

If you unhook the Antiway bar you get a little more flex with the new spring install. Otherwise you should not need a coil compressor but it make life easier.

Good luck, take your time and if you are manually flexing to install the OME springs, watch those brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Shocks and Springs

Thanks to all for the advice. It looks like it will be a long day in the garage but if I take my time and follow the advice given here it shouldn't be that difficult. Thanks to all for passing along the knowledge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll take the before and afters and post them. Now that I have an idea of how to attack this my next question is: Now that the truck will have around a 2 inch lift what would be the best size tire to use. I know alot of this depends on application but I'm not looking for brand here I'm looking for the size that will give me the best off road performance. How large can I go without trimming.
Thanks in advance.
 

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bluemax09 said:
I'll take the before and afters and post them. Now that I have an idea of how to attack this my next question is: Now that the truck will have around a 2 inch lift what would be the best size tire to use. I know alot of this depends on application but I'm not looking for brand here I'm looking for the size that will give me the best off road performance. How large can I go without trimming.
Thanks in advance.

if you go larger than 245/70/16, youll need to trim. many use 245/75/16 or 255/70/16 but imo, 235/85/16 or 265/75/16 looks best. ive got pics of 245/75, 235/85, and 265/75s on mine if youd like to compare.
 

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Bluemax, you will find detailed instructions with pictures on dweeb. Just do a search. It will not take you as long as you think. Have a pair of really big channel locks or a big plumbers pipe wrench available to grab onto the old rear shocks. You'll understand why when they keep spinning on you. I ended up whacking the hell out of them to create a flat surface for the channel locks to grab into.

For you first time, you should be able to do it all in about 3 hours and that's with **** being rusted into place. If you are anywhere near NorCal, you can bring your truck to my house with a 12 pack of beer and we can get it done in about an hour.

I agree with Badger1...drop the sway bars..hell just take them off if you are doing OME springs and shocks...you won't need them. But anyways, I digress, dropping the sway bars you will not need a spring compressor with a D1. Just be careful with over extending your brake lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
any suggestions on whether or not I should just replace the old brake lines with new longer ones or will the older brake lines do just as well extended.
 
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