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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hmm that website isn’t working. Either way, figured it out. Turns out it was the viscous fan clutch. Problem was that every time I tested it, it had not fully warmed up yet. Soon as ect temp was about 180, the fan totally dropped in sound. Used a pice of cardboard and was able to completely stop the fan with the engine running. But of course as I drive it home last night, I got a terrible misfire on cylinder 3. Go figure. Figure out one problem and a new one occurs. The never ending money pit that is a Range Rover...
 

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Hmm that website isn’t working. Either way, figured it out. Turns out it was the viscous fan clutch. Problem was that every time I tested it, it had not fully warmed up yet. Soon as ect temp was about 180, the fan totally dropped in sound. Used a pice of cardboard and was able to completely stop the fan with the engine running. But of course as I drive it home last night, I got a terrible misfire on cylinder 3. Go figure. Figure out one problem and a new one occurs. The never ending money pit that is a Range Rover...
Nothing says Land Rover ownership quite like never-ending problems. Remember, the high seating position and comfy seats are so you have a nice place to look for the tow truck
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Ok, wtf? So I got a new fan clutch, installed it, same problem. Temps are exactly as they were before the new fan clutch. So retested this fan clutch with a piece of cardboard, and this one works fine, yet temps are all the same. Scratching my head for ideas on this one
 

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Do you know for certain the radiator isn't plugged internally...or even the external fins are all clean? That would be my first "action item" as the radiator is the most important part of the cooling system.

I live in NH...have a 2002 Range Rover 4.6. Just changed motors (junkyard 4.6 from another 2002) and did the work myself. During the swap, I installed a new Atlantic British thermostat. It is a cheap Chinese-made replica of the original...but it works fine on my vehicle. And my rig with the engine swap obviously had "zero" coolant in it. I did no special bleeding procedures...just fill the overfill tank until full, start engine and idle it with the overflow tank cap off, wait until it draws down the coolant, keep adding until it stops drawing down. Right away I had great heat and normal temps (my gauge works properly). I've never heard the electric fans come on, and I've been towing a small enclosed snowmobile trailer on the interstate. So you have an issue.

Another thing to check would be the engine oil cooler which is located in front of the radiator. If it is blocked I wonder if it is causing the engine oil temp to be high, which in turn heats the coolant? Seems unlikely especially this time of year.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Been trying to figure out if this radiator is original, which I don’t think it is. There is a label on it that has a faded QR code, which I don’t think existed in 2001 when the vehicle was built. It’s the only comping the cooling system that I have not personally replaced. Radiator looks clean externally. Vaccuum bled the system again today, still no change.
 

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Been trying to figure out if this radiator is original, which I don’t think it is. There is a label on it that has a faded QR code, which I don’t think existed in 2001 when the vehicle was built. It’s the only comping the cooling system that I have not personally replaced. Radiator looks clean externally. Vaccuum bled the system again today, still no change.
Try bleeding without the vacuum pump and see if it makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Ok so found out some interesting info. Got a friend who is a local Land Rover tech, but is t too familiar with the classics, so we opened a tech support case. So straight from Land Rover tech support(USA),the normal operating temp is 218-220. So I may be chasing absolutely nothing...
 

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I feel like the “normal” operating temp of a 4.6 is on the brink of overheat for that engine. It’s like walking along the edge of a 1000ft cliff. You’re right to watch your step!
 
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Ok so found out some interesting info. Got a friend who is a local Land Rover tech, but is t too familiar with the classics, so we opened a tech support case. So straight from Land Rover tech support(USA),the normal operating temp is 218-220. So I may be chasing absolutely nothing...
That's quite high. Cooling fans turn on at 212, so Rover themselves considers 212 too hot. Aluminum engines in general should operate within the 190-210 range. If you have a 180 t-stat in your truck, you should be seeing more like 188-196, up to 203 in traffic with AC on. 218 is way too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
only repeating what I saw in writing directly from Land Rover. Been trying to find a 180 degree thermostat for a p38 and not having much luck. The thermostat from d2 is different than a p38. I can find the d2 ones easily.
 

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In doing a little research you seem to be correct. The factory t-stat opens at 204, which is crazy. Check Lucky8, Atlantic British, and Ebay. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Yeah it’s weird. Seems way high to me as well. Currently installed is the Atlantic British thermostat, but I don’t know what the operating temp is. Emailed twice now with no response. Lucky 8 stocks the d2 180 but not p38. Found some on rock auto, they say 180 degree in the description, but appear to be the same white color as the oem ones.
 

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If the RockAuto one is cheap, then it might be worth a try. Although I got a "180" from FCP Euro that was the same color as the 190 and it ended up being a 190, so it's a dice roll.
I just did a quick look and can't find much either
 

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I still can’t understand all of the hullabaloo about thermostats. A thermostat can’t control your operating temps, so if you find your rig running hotter than you’d prefer, you would likely want a better radiator or fan?

whatever the nominal operating temp is, you want to get there as quickly as possible. In cold climates, keeping the stat closed longer results in faster heating of the engine, reduced emissions (by proxy), and better performance. They make the lower temp thermostats for tropical climates where you’re more likely to overshoot the desired temp.

more realistically, the thermostat controls when the system begins cooling, not how much it cools. If you’re in a temperate climate, I would stick with the oem stat and make sure your cooling system is tits
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
But a thermostat will effect operating temps if it’s malfunctioning. Stuck open, runs too cool, stuck closed, runs too hot. Every component has an effect depending on how it’s operating.
 

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this is true, however that conversation is "good stat vs bad stat" not "180 stat vs 190 stat" (-;
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Ok so got the new thermostat in, and already a noticeable difference. It’s about 36 degrees F out today, and cruising around at about 45-50 mph, temps sit at 200 ish. After I park it and let it idle for a few minutes, it gets up to 208 max. Not even hot enough to get the electric fans to actuate. That’s a way better temp. So for the record, I used a stant thermostat from rock auto which they say is 180 degree. And that may be the last time I spend money with Atlantic British. Emailed several times and they never responded, so I’m guessing this is a 190 degree thermostat or it’s defective.
 

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Ok so got the new thermostat in, and already a noticeable difference. It’s about 36 degrees F out today, and cruising around at about 45-50 mph, temps sit at 200 ish. After I park it and let it idle for a few minutes, it gets up to 208 max. Not even hot enough to get the electric fans to actuate. That’s a way better temp. So for the record, I used a stant thermostat from rock auto which they say is 180 degree. And that may be the last time I spend money with Atlantic British. Emailed several times and they never responded, so I’m guessing this is a 190 degree thermostat or it’s defective.
The rock auto one seems consistent for a 190 t stat. The AB one was likely the weird 204 t stat they had from the factory.
But hey, improvement!
 
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