I think most of us who own these trucks have oil/ps/trans leaks one time oretrnly said:Well I get a couple drip marks each night on the driveway. I had thought it was my transmission or the transfer case. The dealership quoted me 2900 to replace that and my valve cover gaskets. They said they would just pull the whole motor to do this.
pavel said:Etrnly: if you are going to do the leaking valve cover gaskets yourself, permit me to offer some comments - first get prepared:
1 check you have an 8mm deep 12 point socket (1/4 inch drive). You may find the cover bolts are only finger tight when you remove them. Torque to about 4-5 ftlbs when you put them back. Sometimes people have replaced the factory 12 point bolts with 6 point.
2 the dealer will probably tell you that you need to buy 8 new bolts because the old collar seals (just under the bolt heads) are hard now. This is rubbish. Go to the hardware and buy a foot of neoprene clear tubing (ID 0.187" OD 0.312" worked for me). Cut off 8 little doughnuts about 2mm thick each and slip them over the cleaned old bolts - this will work well as seals against oil leakage around the bolt heads.
3 the dealer around here does not use any sealer on these gaskets but I always use Permatex Super adhesive/sealer "97 Hightack". Glue the gasket to the heads first, located by the bolts. Then glue the valve cover down.
4 do one side of the engine at a time, the passenger (right side) is usually a more difficult job because you have to remove more things along the way.
5 the job took me over 5 hours the first time I did it - I work slow and clean everything as I go. I took a nap at one point.
6 retorque after a week or so.
The dealer will charge you many hundreds for this job that you can easily do yourself. Get a (Haynes) manual first if you don't have one.
Once you have eliminated valve cover leakage, see if there are fewer drips on the driveway - you could be lucky. Cheers!