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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
Got started on the rear diff on the D1 and this is as far as I got, with a broken puller to show for it.....
How do I get this off?? I dont see a nut at all.... just the yolk as you see it in the attached pic....
Any advice would be appriciated, but i dont want to diss the rear end and take the axles out, nothing wrong in there.... juzt not ready to do that. Previous posts
indicate that diff dissassembly isnt required for roto to solid shaft conversion...
:help..
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hate to ask cuz i feel like a pita.... but what do i do with the m8x1.25 bolt?
I saw the pic with a socket and pliers and washers.... but im just not understanding what the procedure is.... how is the shaft centering peg attached to the pinion on the diff?
Are there written instructions somewhere i can follow?
Im quite an accomplished mechanic but this is my first landie and so far the assembly processes at the landie plant just has me scratching my head....
 

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The peg is only held in the flange with Loctite( I think 609).

Re: the bolt, look in the center of the peg. You will see M8x1.25 threads. The total length of the peg is approx. 2.5">>

Get a 4" M8x1.25 bolt, a few flat washers, and a nut. Now get a socket approx. 3 3/4" long(or space it like in the link). Thread the nut to the top of the bolt and add washers under the nut.

Put the bolt in the socket, and thread it on the peg. Turn the nut until peg is out. If you need heat some propane will help.

LOOKS JUST LIKE THIS>>>

You can also use a slide hammer with a m8x1.25 fitting. Hope this helps


Or you can do it this way. The OVERKILL is JUST FUNNY!!!!!!!!!!!!!>>>






AND DONE...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Success!

Pazzo,
Great videos!!! Exactly what I needed!
I love getting good intel from the people who know the most about them... the vuys that do their own work!!
The slide hammer was my first choice but no one within a nuclear blast radius had a full slide hammer with the correct attachments, so on to option 2....
The 4 inch metric bolt and nut puller combo. But alas, this was also doomed to fail because no one had a full 4 inches of m8x1.25 threadstock, or a bolt of sufficient length to get 4 inches of threads.... so on to option 3....
The only one most likely to work, the cutoff wheel on the grinder. Three cuts as the youtube video guy did, but i drove a hardened screwstick into the slot and forced the 3 prong pinion flange away from itself... and the center guide peg came right out.
I have but 2 more questions and im done on the shafts..... if you look at the attached pic, you will see a spacer to the left of the new pinion flange.
Where does that go?
The kit from British Atlantic did not come with instructions and the old pinion flange did not have a spacer, just the washer behind the locknut.
Also, i am told the torque on the locknut must be exact, as it preloads the pinion bearing.
Anyone know what that is?
Thanks everyone your great wisdom. It makes wrenching more fun and less frustrating.
 

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Good to hear the peg came out "clean". :drink1:

RE: the spacer. Look at the length of the end of the Old Flange. The New Flange end is shorter. The kit you got should be STC3722, and that spacer makes up the difference.

Here is a good link w/ pics discoweb.org -- Click TECH on the TOP/ and then in the Left Menu Click "Rotoflex to U-joint Conversion"

AB's basic instructions: Drive Shaft Conversion Kit - Product Instructions

This can be helpful... http://www.landroverresource.com/docs/D1_Workshop_Manual.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great info guys, thank you!!!

Thank you mucho grande!!!
Im gonna finish it up tomorrow.
I very much appriciate the tech info.... made this soo much easier!!!
 
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