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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've read the various posts about door locks not working that would apply to my 2001 Discovery II SE7 but none seem to apply to the problem I'm having. Recently the remote stopped working. It will not lock or unlock the doors. The spare remote also does not work. New batteries in both remotes didn't fix the problem either. It doesn't appear that it is the latch assemblies because when the key is inserted and turned in the driver's door, all 5 doors can be locked and unlocked, no problem. Also the buttons on the dash work properly to unlock and lock all 5 doors. It seems to be a problem with the wireless communications. I assume it's not the fobs because both of them do not work even with new batteries. That suggests that the signal is not being received or not processed properly by the receiver in the vehicle. Also, the red light on the dash does not flash when the fob button is pressed. The red light on the fobs both are red when the button is pressed so they appear to be working.

Anybody have any ideas? Thanks. Tom
 

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Just make sure the fuse is not blown the remote recover is in front of the rear sunroof look under the steering wheel take of the cover and look for the key remote fuse pull it check it and plug it back in
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just make sure the fuse is not blown the remote recover is in front of the rear sunroof look under the steering wheel take of the cover and look for the key remote fuse pull it check it and plug it back in
I tested the 50 amp fuse you referred to that is in the engine compartment fuse box and it is OK. I also tested the fuse in the fuse box under the steering wheel and it is also good.

I guess the next step is to look at the receiver but I need to determine exactly where it is and how to get at it.
 

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Joe Btfsplk
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Focus:
You could try one more thing; the EKA (Emergency Key Access method) which requires a four digit key code. If you don't know it you can get it from a dealer with proof of ownership and a VIN number. Follow the method on the attached image and see if you can gain access!
From RAVE:
Emergency key access
If the handset fails to operate, the engine can be remobilised by using the key to enter a unique four digit Emergency
Key Access (EKA) code.
There are three configurations for emergency key access:
l EKA not active (no immobiliser fitted).
l EKA active.
l EKA with super locking on receiving good passive remobilisation exciter coil signal.
The code is recorded on the security information card and is entered as follows:
1 Using the key, turn the driver's door lock to the UNLOCK position and hold in this position for at least 5 seconds.
An audible warning is then emitted to indicate that the body control unit is ready to accept the code. Return the
key to the centre position. It is now possible to use the key to enter the separate numerical values of the four
digits that make up the EKA code.
2 Enter the first digit of the code. If the first digit is 4, turn the key to the UNLOCK position 4 times. Ensure the
key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
3 Enter the second digit of the code. If the second digit is 3, turn the key to the LOCK position 3 times. Ensure
the key is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
4 Enter the third digit of the code. If the third digit is 2, turn the key to the UNLOCK position twice. Ensure the key
is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
5 Enter the fourth digit of the code. If the fourth digit is 1, turn the key to the LOCK position once. Ensure the key
is fully returned to the centre position after each turn of the key.
6 Finally, turn the key to the UNLOCK position and back to the centre position, a double bleep will indicate that
the code has been entered correctly. A single bleep indicates that the code has been entered incorrectly.
Then, before opening the door, wait 5 minutes for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated. During the 5
minute wait for the alarm and immobiliser to be de-activated, the alarm indicator LED in the instrument pack
continues to flash (one flash every 2 seconds). DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR OR ATTEMPT TO ENTER THE
CAR until the full delay period has elapsed.
When the 5 minute wait has elapsed, the alarm indicator LED stops flashing. Immediately open the door, insert
the key in the ignition switch and turn the switch to position II. If the ignition switch is not turned to position II
within 30 seconds of the end of the 5 minute wait, the engine is automatically immobilised again.
The EKA code will not be recognised if there is an interval of 10 seconds or more between key turns or if the key is
held turned for 5 seconds or more during the procedure.
In some system configurations a successful EKA code entry is indicated by the audible warning device pulsing twice
for a period of 50 ms on, 200 ms off. The theft deterrent LED is switched on for 1 second, all doors unlock, the alarm
disarms and the vehicle is remobilised allowing the engine to start.
If an incorrect code is entered, an audible warning is emitted and the procedure must be repeated. Up to a maximum
of 10 attempts to enter the code is possible. After 10 attempts, the BCU will not allow any further codes to be entered
for a period of 10 minutes."

Be sure you allowing the correct time delay!
Hope this works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for that idea Joe. I did see that in the manual but I don't think I need to do that. I have full access to the vehicle using the key in the passengers door. I can unlock and lock the vehicle with the key in the door and the car starts fine so I don't think I need to do the EKA procedure.

Any other ideas? I'm stumped.

Focus:
You could try one more thing; the EKA (Emergency Key Access method) which requires a four digit key code. If you don't know it you can get it from a dealer with proof of ownership and a VIN number. Follow the method on the attached image and see if you can gain access!
 

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No idea, but just to be sure...you said you put in new batteries....Does the light on the key fob light up when you push the button? There should be a little red light on it when the button is pushed. If they do than you should be able to rule out that it's a transmitter/key issue and something with the vehicle.

Could the key fobs have somehow lost their programming?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No idea, but just to be sure...you said you put in new batteries....Does the light on the key fob light up when you push the button? There should be a little red light on it when the button is pushed. If they do than you should be able to rule out that it's a transmitter/key issue and something with the vehicle.

Could the key fobs have somehow lost their programming?

Yes, the red LED on the both fobs light up when the button is pressed. It did on both with the old and new batteries. I don't think the red LED is sufficient to say the fob is actually transmitting but it's a safe guess they are when neither one of them work. One of the fobs has been used daily for 14 years and the other fob has almost never been used and so I'm guessing they both didn't die given the difference in usage over the years. For the same reason I ruled out that the fobs have lost their programming.

I'm trying to figure out how to get access to the receiver without ruining the headliner.
 

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I had this same problem and it resolved itself after a water pump replacement. Obviously the water pump has nothing to do with it but I had the battery disconnected for a few days. When I reconnected it the fob worked again.
 

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Joe Btfsplk
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One other thing to try: disconnect the battery, let it sit for 10 minutes, touch the two cable ends together for a minute or so without touching the poles of the battery, and then reconnect. Apparently, that is considered a 'hard' reset of the electronics. It might be similar to what Timtech experienced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for those suggestions. I tried disconnecting the battery for a few seconds and for a few hours with and without shorting the 2 batteries wire connectors together and none of them worked. Still no remote access.

I found the receiver under the headliner. Anybody know a way to test it without a Testbook? The problem could be in the receiver or ecu. It would be good to nail down the point of failure before buying parts.
 

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Coming back on this old thread - was it ever resolved?
I have the exact same problem on my 2001 Discovery 2.

I found that the receiver is not getting any power. Not sure if the BCU is to blame, the receiver itself (I would have though not because of the lack of power but apparently some go bad and tell the BCU to go in sleep mode?) or some wiring some place (the BCU to receiver wiring is ok).

Anyone has any guidance before i start buying parts?
 
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