[jh.]

Doing ABS Option B Mod

Doing the ABS mod described in the sticky and have run into a few snags...but figured the first few out myself. First the side plug didn't want to release. Pulled harder after flipping the clip up. Success. Then I couldn't get the seals off the plungers using my fingers or needlenose. Razor blade worked well.

Now it's the multimeter reading 0.00 instead of 3.00 open / 2.00 half open / 1.00 closed. Is this the root cause of my 3 amigos or something wrong with the way I'm testing. I tested before soldering (tested the brown wires directly) and after (tested the trailer harness).

 

[Disco Mike]

How do you know the module is bad, have you read the codes?

 

[jh.]

How do you know the module is bad, have you read the codes?

11,4 according to my Amigo.

Don't necessarily think it's bad...just want to fix the shuttle valve fault. Replacing the seals and doing the trailer harness fix. However, embarrassingly I'm stuck on step 3 because I don't want to break the plug by torqueing it anymore than I already have without someone telling me to go ahead and pull harder... :buttrock:

 

[Disco Mike]

Don't to forget to do a full 2 quart DOT 4 brakes flush.

 

[jh.]

Definitely will since I'm replacing brake lines too.

Next question...when I test the wires with my multimeter, I get 0.00. Am I doing something wrong, or does that mean it's time for this: ABS shuttle valve code solution; brake fluid leaks rather than just the seals that I bought?

 

[jh.]

Actually since I already have the $50 seals, AB has a better deal: ABS Modulator Shuttle Valve Switch (Part # SWO500030) - Land Rover hydraulics from Atlantic British

However I don't know if that's necessary - but I'm guessing yes due to the electrical issues above.