Ok I'm not a complete idiot, but im trying to replace the front brake pads on my 94 Discovery, and I cant even get the lugnuts loose to remove the front tires. Is there some trick here I do not know? Any help would be appreciated, I couldn't find anything in the Hayne repair manual. Thanks in advance.
Removing wheels to change brake pads HELP!!!
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is the tires on the ground or have you lifted it? if you've lifted it, drop it back down, put parking brake and then go to town on it. Hope you're not using the crappy tire iron that came with it. if you are, go out and get a 1/2 breaker bar and try that. if still no good, put a pipe to get more leverage. also standing on it and jumping up and down helps 
good luck
sam
good luck
sam
Sam's right, I dont even know why Land Rover even puts that wimpy Iron in there. It won't even stay on the lug, it slides off. I haven't seen the tools on the D2s or the newer models yet but I hope they changed that! It doesn't help at all when you take your truck to a shop and they put the lugs back on with those damn airimpact guns
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490 Posts
I have never had any trouble getting the big lugs off my RRC with the factory wrench, (ok, you have to put a lot into it) but the 4.0! It has thin aluminum covers over the same huge lugs--and the wrench is the same exact thing! You have to use a hammer and pound the wrench until its on, and then they don't turn! So I have a breaker bar, and I have yanked it so hard the wheel itself (sitting on the ground) has actually turned a little and the lug not broken free!! It really shouldn't take 20 minutes to get the lugs off one wheel. How is an older, or smaller, or not superstrong person going to change a tire on the side of the road?
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2 Posts
No doubt... I'm having real trouble getting the plastic lug nut covers off to do a break job. I'm afraid of destroying the lug not covers in the process... But what to do? When I put a breaker bar on it... The whole darn truck moves forward! Is there a tool that removes this lugnut cover? Or do I just keep torquing on the lug nut covers? Please help - We're without transportation until I fix the brakes.
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16,548 Posts
You don't remove the lug nut covers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do you have a shop manual?
Are you needing to replace the rotors?
Have you ever done brakes on a 4X4?
Mike
Do you have a shop manual?
Are you needing to replace the rotors?
Have you ever done brakes on a 4X4?
Mike
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2,185 Posts
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2 Posts
You're no idiot. I've had the same issue. The way these lug nuts are sesigned makes it easy to overtighten them the last time the wheels were off. Make sure you use an impact gun with plenty of air pressure to remove them. If a breaker bar works - good for you! I had no such luck, even with a cheater pipe. The impact was the only way to go after soaking the lug nuts in some WD-40. Funny thing is, the wheels were off the vehicle about 6 months ago when a commercial garage put new tires on the wheels. Leave it to a shop to overtighten them.
Frozen Wheel nuts
Not an idiot,
OK, I am a pretty decent wrencher/gear head/mechanic. 200lb/In Shape - know about extenders, cheater pipes, impacts, heat and other ways to break loose a frozen nut or bolt.
This crap with the lug nuts is one of many reasons to never own a Discovery.
There is simple NO WAY a "typical owner" changes a tire on a road side. Right,,,”Just get the 3/4 Air hammer out of the back, run the pressure on the 100 gallon tank to 120' and let er rip!!! Screw the damn nut covers! Those bastards are getting mauled.”
And all this to replace a fuel filter, WTF guys? Did someone actually think when they selected the materials and the design?
If I EVER get these damn things off I will cover both bolt and threads with "Never-Seize" and see how that works. Right,,, One is changing a tire in the field??? Right come on over Mr. Land Rover Dude and let’s see you do it with common hand tools. I will even allow you to use the 3/4 Drive set. Remember to bring your lunch and eat your Wheaties.
Wife past owner of 97 Discovery.
Sister current owner of 97 Discovery.
Not an idiot,
OK, I am a pretty decent wrencher/gear head/mechanic. 200lb/In Shape - know about extenders, cheater pipes, impacts, heat and other ways to break loose a frozen nut or bolt.
This crap with the lug nuts is one of many reasons to never own a Discovery.
There is simple NO WAY a "typical owner" changes a tire on a road side. Right,,,”Just get the 3/4 Air hammer out of the back, run the pressure on the 100 gallon tank to 120' and let er rip!!! Screw the damn nut covers! Those bastards are getting mauled.”
And all this to replace a fuel filter, WTF guys? Did someone actually think when they selected the materials and the design?
If I EVER get these damn things off I will cover both bolt and threads with "Never-Seize" and see how that works. Right,,, One is changing a tire in the field??? Right come on over Mr. Land Rover Dude and let’s see you do it with common hand tools. I will even allow you to use the 3/4 Drive set. Remember to bring your lunch and eat your Wheaties.
Wife past owner of 97 Discovery.
Sister current owner of 97 Discovery.
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16,548 Posts
If you can't handle a good lug wrench while trying to remove our wheels, torqued to 105 foot pounds, then yeh, you shouldn't own one.
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1,382 Posts
:lol::lol: basicly.
but seriously if you guys are having this problem you need to go to a decent tire shop that actually puts the specified torque on the lugs, or go back and complain.
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1,855 Posts
The first time I threw a spare on the DII, I went to the Snap-On truck. Dual sided 1"-1 1/16" (1/2" drive) Impact socket. 3" extension, and 24" breaker bar. Set-up stays in the back. Bought the same set up (changing socket per application) for the DI, the RRC, and the SIIa. I still have the bent factory tire iron in my shop to remind me of how poor it's construction is. I bent it in the middle of a hurricane on the side of US1 by using the extension that came with it, and me pulling up on it. Not even standing on it.
When you go to a tire shop; never, NEVER, let them install lug nuts to alloy wheels with an impact gun by itself. Always, ALWAYS have them use a "torque stick" set to the factory recommended specs; and then go around by hand to double check with a torque wrench. I ran tire shops for years; and no matter how many times you tell them; if the manager is not in the shop; or the customer standing outside the door; they never do it the right way. Only the easy way. Caveat Emptor, for sure.
When you go to a tire shop; never, NEVER, let them install lug nuts to alloy wheels with an impact gun by itself. Always, ALWAYS have them use a "torque stick" set to the factory recommended specs; and then go around by hand to double check with a torque wrench. I ran tire shops for years; and no matter how many times you tell them; if the manager is not in the shop; or the customer standing outside the door; they never do it the right way. Only the easy way. Caveat Emptor, for sure.
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3 Posts
There is no trick. It is done in simple way as done in other vehicle.
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19 Posts
I ended up spending an entire evening with my Dremel using a cutting disk to remove all the lug nut covers. At the time I was using 28 and 29 mm sockets to take them off. Now all I need is one socket, 27 mm. No slippage whatsoever.
The only down side I see is that the lug nuts have a hole all the way through and you can see it. I personally think it looks interesting. However, I plan on using some Bondo to cover up the holes and round off the ends. Next use some spray paint since I want to repaint my stock rims to black to match the body color.
If you decide to go this route, Make sure you use goggles. You don't want tiny pieces of metal flying at your eyes from a disk spinning at 30,000 RPM!!!
~Rick.
The only down side I see is that the lug nuts have a hole all the way through and you can see it. I personally think it looks interesting. However, I plan on using some Bondo to cover up the holes and round off the ends. Next use some spray paint since I want to repaint my stock rims to black to match the body color.
If you decide to go this route, Make sure you use goggles. You don't want tiny pieces of metal flying at your eyes from a disk spinning at 30,000 RPM!!!
~Rick.
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16,548 Posts
Boy, I would hate to see what you would do if your Rover had a real problem.
Always using the proper size socket and you would never have this happen. It is not the Rovers fault but the person removing the tires through out the Rovers maintance.
I have seen Rovers with 250,000 miles on it with what appear to be the original lug nuts.
Always using the proper size socket and you would never have this happen. It is not the Rovers fault but the person removing the tires through out the Rovers maintance.
I have seen Rovers with 250,000 miles on it with what appear to be the original lug nuts.
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19 Posts
Actually I ended up cutting the covers because I ended up with a flat tire and couldn't remove it while I was at home. I realized that if I ended up with a flat on the side of the road, I would have been a really unhappy camper. At least 3 of them actually would spin in place. Besides, If I didn't like the way they looked I would have ended up getting new ones anyways. My disco was repossessed from the previous owner so When I bought it, it was a mess. It had range of problems and I slowly and lovingly brought it back to health. The parking pawl or pin was broken so I still have to park with the e-brake. The tire iron was missing of course. The engine had no oil whatsoever...
~Rick.
~Rick.
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3,198 Posts
I put this on my wheel studs about once a year.
Anti Seize Compounds from Permatex and Bostik Never-Seez - Industrial Supply Group
Never had a problem with lug nuts since I started using it in the mid 70's.
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Anti Seize Compounds from Permatex and Bostik Never-Seez - Industrial Supply Group
Never had a problem with lug nuts since I started using it in the mid 70's.
I recently bought a 1995 Discovery and was quite annoyed when I realized my standard lug wrench would not fit the darned lugs on this thing. That said, after spending 50 bucks on a 24 inch breaker bar with 1/2 inch drive and the appropriate socket to fit the lug nuts I have had no problems getting the lug nuts off. In fact about an hour ago I took the front driver side wheel off as I am replacing all my brake pads. The only lug nut I had a problem with is one that the previous owner had slightly stripped somehow. I had to really work the socket onto that one but with a little effort I got it on there and easily broke it loose. Of course as said I use the right tools and am a pretty big guy. I'm also a combat vet who deadlifts 600lbs and used to break the lug nuts on 5 ton dump trucks in the Army so I'm probably not a good comparison.
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41 Posts
Hmmm, I'm a 105 lb. weakling with one arm - with which I can only bench press the equivalent of a 12 oz. can of beer - and I don't have any trouble getting the lug nuts off.
But seriously, shortly after I got the truck (just over 1 year old & 15K miles) I just slathered waterproof grease on the threads of the lug bolts and shoulders of the nuts, torque them to about 100-120 ft lbs with a proper wrench and insist anyone working on it do the same.
Last time I was in to get the tires balanced, the guys claimed my torque was too low... but it wasn't. Some lube on there just makes it seem so.
Still have the stainless covers on all of them, too... although a few are a little dented up. The covers seem to be tight initially, then after a few times in the socket will get compressed onto the lug nut enough that it's no big deal wrenching with them on there.
By the way, a lot of race cars are required to be fitted with open-ended lugs to pass safety inspection, under the sanctioning rules... That's doen to prevent builders from using risky, shortened lug bolts trying to save a few ounces of unsprung weight.
Once you get the frozen ones off, use antiseize liberally, or just some waterproof grease, or any old grease for that matter. Then all you have to do is watch out that some goofball at the tire shop doesn't use an air hammer to torque them to 250 ft lbs or something ridiculous.
But seriously, shortly after I got the truck (just over 1 year old & 15K miles) I just slathered waterproof grease on the threads of the lug bolts and shoulders of the nuts, torque them to about 100-120 ft lbs with a proper wrench and insist anyone working on it do the same.
Last time I was in to get the tires balanced, the guys claimed my torque was too low... but it wasn't. Some lube on there just makes it seem so.
Still have the stainless covers on all of them, too... although a few are a little dented up. The covers seem to be tight initially, then after a few times in the socket will get compressed onto the lug nut enough that it's no big deal wrenching with them on there.
By the way, a lot of race cars are required to be fitted with open-ended lugs to pass safety inspection, under the sanctioning rules... That's doen to prevent builders from using risky, shortened lug bolts trying to save a few ounces of unsprung weight.
Once you get the frozen ones off, use antiseize liberally, or just some waterproof grease, or any old grease for that matter. Then all you have to do is watch out that some goofball at the tire shop doesn't use an air hammer to torque them to 250 ft lbs or something ridiculous.
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