[Derel1cte]

The rear bushings in both my front lower A arms have gone. It sounds like dropping bowling balls on the ground when I hit seams in the road or brake heavily!

Now I'm wondering what will be easiest/cheapest.

I plan on buying the arms from Atlantic British (left LR028249, right LR028245). At $300 a side plus $30 for the replacement bolts it seems like a fair deal. I see that there are Non-oem arms for a little cheaper but I'm more comfortable with factory parts.

I guess my main question is: Can I do this on jack stands in my driveway with basic wrenches? The most complicated thing i've done myself was brake pads and rotors. (and that was with the help of Brody's brake bible!)

Does anyone have a tutorial? Am i better off taking it to a shop since it's going to need an alignment afterwards anyway?

Any advice is appreciated. The banging is embarrassing!

 

[Eniam17]

I haven't even done brakes myself as a disclaimer so I am not a mechanic by any means, but:

there is a great detailed post on the disco3 website with lots of pictures and instructions if you go over there and search for it. I don't have the link.

From what I have read on there and also from talking friends at the dealer, it's not a bad job unless the bolts are frozen. Then it becomes quite a bit more difficult and probably requires heat.

If you have to go to the dealer, on the plus side it's not a real labor intensive job so the bill shouldn't be too bad.

 

[RoverGuy7]

It can be done. But it's not normally that simple, involves a good amount of positioning and clearance to get everything to line up, and sometimes it's a real pain. If the bolt have frozen in the bushings, you'll have a nightmare on your hands with out having the proper tooling.

Make sure you get new axle nuts, as the axle need to be removed from the hub on the LR3.

 

[stmcknig]

I'm with Dave, I usually decide DIY based on "what's the worst that can happen and can I deal with it...or drive it to someone who can..."

 

[bbyer]

Yes, sort of do it your self but ...

A couple of years back, rather than just replacing the ball joints, I had my local LR Dealer instead, replace both lower A Arms, (left LR028249, right LR028245). Also changed were some steering tie rods ends and both rear stabilizer bar rubber bushings, (part number LR015336).

My 2005 LR3 has 127,000 km, (79,000 miles), on it and this was the first time for ball joints, (city type pavement driving and no intended off road).

I wanted the apparently newer improved design of the ball joints, (part number RBK500280), so all new A arm assemblies seemed the easiest method to achieve that goal. I therefore got new lower control arm bushings as a bonus.

In terms of labour, well flat rate does not yield any savings, but if you were to do the job yourself, buying the new assemblies is I think the route to go.

Instead of much banging and cursing and then cutting the three bolts off that hold the assembly on so you can then press out the joint, (well if you have the LR special tool, maybe not so tough), you instead just plan on cutting the three bolts.

In practice, the dealer only had to cut one bolt on each side, (typical, always at least one), as the other two each side, properly unthreaded. Also with buying the complete assemblies, (plus 4 each of RDI000034 Bolt, RYF000203 Washer, FX116056 Nut, Flanged), you will then have all the needed parts instead of running around getting more bolts and bushings etc and more importantly, the job is now relatively straight forward – almost do it yourself, as most of you on the forum seem much more capable than I.

Yes, you will need a 4 wheel alignment, but that was in the plan anyway, as are new tyres.

There is also the view that a lower arm is only good for one replacement ball joint as there is some thought the hole can get distorted from repeated replacement. I am hoping to get closer to 200,000 km, (125,000 miles), out of these new ones - we will see, but the dealer says the new design seems to be holding up quite well. I might add that due to freeze thaw, our main paved roads are a moonscape of pot holes more so than any green lane track I have ever seen, and at least one does run a trail at +100 kph.

After a few days of driving, I was pleased to say that the 3 was quieter inside, (less suspension banging and road noise from the pavement joints and pot holes coming thru), so at least that part of the plan has succeeded.

Also two years and 30,000 miles later, the lower ball joints still seem OK, also the uppers as they do not seem to go. I have had to replace some inner and outer tie rods ends a couple of time since much to my annoyance, but ball joints OK.

Primarily, make certain you are installing the new improved arms and have all new bolts available.

Also you have air suspension. Do not believe any stories that suggest it will not drop. You have only one set of hands; disconnect the battery as that kills most of the electronics; ( it has a mind of it's own), and lift on the frame front and back, plus wheel chocks on the rear - it it over two ton.

And yes, assume the two rubber stabilizer bar bushing at the back are shot, (as they will be), and new ones equal quiet.