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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Newer owner, 2006 LR3 while changing plugs (No.5?) rear driver side. Coil pack bolt was spinning, about to the point of breaking it, with chisels & all got it out!
Ran fine for couple hundred miles.now 9 codes
P302
P305
P306
P300
P316
P2401
P0447
P0356
P2408
Now what??
well reset & starting w blank slate, Initially got P306 & P316 then added P356 & P240.
so 6 cly MF- MF Detected- Ignition coil F primary & secondary, lastly EVAP P240
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Newer owner, 2006 LR3 while changing plugs (No.5?) rear driver side. Coil pack bolt was spinning, about to the point of breaking it, with chisels & all got it out!
Ran fine for couple hundred miles.now 9 codes
P302
P305
P306
P300
P316
P2401
P0447
P0356
P2408
Now what??
well reset & starting w blank slate, Initially got P306 & P316 then added P356 & P240.
so 6 cly MF- MF Detected- Ignition coil F primary & secondary, lastly EVAP P240
Hate throwing a Battery in without trying other fixes
 

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Thats all misfire codes so something you did with the coils is probably the cause. The bolt for that coil was seized in there? Or the plug was? Going to need more info on whats happened when you did the work im betting you caused some damage to a grounding wire for the coils or something like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats all misfire codes so something you did with the coils is probably the cause. The bolt for that coil was seized in there? Or the plug was? Going to need more info on whats happened when you did the work im betting you caused some damage to a grounding wire for the coils or something like that.
The splined stud that the COP threads into was spinning, finally prying & all got the bolt out. Could see that the plug had been in there awhile (different branding). The COP boot tore & had crud/gray soot, replaced plug & COP the previous owner had with the RL3.
Ran pretty good , drove it to work (30miles one way) for week +, then started acting up & this. Going to find COP & try another.
A fuse block in engine compartment by battery is basically (loose) spades don't plug thight, I'd noticed this before & never got around to dealing w it at the time.
So anyway started running poorly, a stiff 30mph wind had it down shifting, just running as before & throwing all these codes..
Also Thanks for your reply!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The splined stud that the COP threads into was spinning, finally prying & all got the bolt out. Could see that the plug had been in there awhile (different branding). The COP boot tore & had crud/gray soot, replaced plug & COP the previous owner had with the RL3.
Ran pretty good , drove it to work (30miles one way) for week +, then started acting up & this. Going to find COP & try another.
A fuse block in engine compartment by battery is basically (loose) spades don't plug thight, I'd noticed this before & never got around to dealing w it at the time.
So anyway started running poorly, a stiff 30mph wind had it down shifting, just running as before & throwing all these codes..
Also Thanks for your reply!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well fuse block is windshield heater. After some internet searches & going back to COP found some carbon crust on 8 & 5 springs.. cleaned up a bit & running tremendously better! going from Kansas to Arkansas about 5 hour trip hopefully all goes well.
 

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COP / Coil on plug
 

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The splined stud that the COP threads into was spinning, finally prying & all got the bolt out. Could see that the plug had been in there awhile (different branding). The COP boot tore & had crud/gray soot, replaced plug & COP the previous owner had with the RL3.
Ran pretty good , drove it to work (30miles one way) for week +, then started acting up & this. Going to find COP & try another.
A fuse block in engine compartment by battery is basically (loose) spades don't plug thight, I'd noticed this before & never got around to dealing w it at the time.
So anyway started running poorly, a stiff 30mph wind had it down shifting, just running as before & throwing all these codes..
Also Thanks for your reply!!
sorry lr3 engines are normally very trouble free, i would think you have some sort of electrical fault in the harness somewhere or the coil is just worn out, you can gauge the health of the coils with a cheap old school spark tester that tests modern coil packs just to make sure the coils are bad, can do the same thing if you just remove the plug and put the coil and plug togeather as they should be in the engine, ground the plug on the engine block somewhere and monitor the spark produced. dont electrify yourself when doing this step. other possibility's are injectors or a fuel pump issue, or an intake air leak but i think maybe more likely its the packs or fuel delivery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sorry lr3 engines are normally very trouble free, i would think you have some sort of electrical fault in the harness somewhere or the coil is just worn out, you can gauge the health of the coils with a cheap old school spark tester that tests modern coil packs just to make sure the coils are bad, can do the same thing if you just remove the plug and put the coil and $plug togeather as they should be in the engine, ground the plug on the engine block somewhere and monitor the spark produced. dont electrify yourself èwhen doing this step. other possibility's are injectors or a fuel pump issue, or an intake air leak but i think maybe more likely its the packs or fuel delivery.
ê/QUOTE]
Yeah think your right, pulled all the cop's & spring contacts all had corrosion, crusty burnt areas. now to see about replacement$. Seen prices from $10-$70 ea. / $75- $300+ for a set of 8
 
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