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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of replacing the front right ABS (Wheel Speed) sensor in order to resolve a three amigos problem. Yes, that was the code I got: front right sensor erratic or signal failure at various times.

The RAVE manual says the hub and sensor are replaced as a unit, but given the ready availability of just the sensor, I assume it is possible to replace just that component. It looks like I will at least have to remove the brake caliper and rotor to get to it. Is this correct?

Anyone like to share their experience with me? Thanks in advance.
 

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The first thing I would do is to enact something like the Land Rover TSB which involves removing the inline connector (under the hood above the inner fender) which is a source of unreliability. The TSB has you running new cable right back to the body module (they sell a version of ABS sensor with enough wire to go back to the body module) - I wouldn't bother - just cut out the inline connectors, solder the wires together, and cover with adhesive heatshrink.
 

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With the calliper and rotor removed it is possible to remove the sensor from the hub small metric Allen screw as I recall, I would agree with marksf regarding the connector t.s.b.. May solve your issue without any substantial expense. Worth a try.
 

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Definitely mess with that connection point first, it often rusts. If you do need to replace the sensor the old one will need to be cut to pull out. Feed the wires of the new sensor in first and make sure you clean the mating surfaces so it mounts at the correct height.

I'm not sure if polarity makes a difference or how to tell which wire is which. Maybe someone else can shed some light on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Definitely mess with that connection point first, it often rusts. If you do need to replace the sensor the old one will need to be cut to pull out. Feed the wires of the new sensor in first and make sure you clean the mating surfaces so it mounts at the correct height.

I'm not sure if polarity makes a difference or how to tell which wire is which. Maybe someone else can shed some light on that.
Not in this case, the contacts were clean and looked brand new. Those connectors are polarized and sealed with an O ring, so unless you spend a lot of time with your truck underwater, I think those connectors will do a pretty good job of keeping themselves clean.

I bought a new sensor, OE replacement off eBay for less than $20. The only issue was getting the old cable out and the new one in. You can force the new connector through the hole between the hub and steering knuckle just barely, then go ahead and run it the rest of the way.

After clearing the codes with my trusty Autel AL619 scanner, the lights went off and did not come back on during a short test drive. So far, so good. We'll see how it shakes out. I'd rather not remove the connector to make the connections and I certainly don't want to snake a wire all the way up to the controller.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Been driving the truck for several days (knock wood) and the Three Amigos have not returned. I'm tentatively declaring this problem solved.

I think it's important for people to understand that when the Amigos visit, it is not a forgone conclusion that the ABS modulator is at fault. It is worth the effort to buy, borrow or rent a scan tool with Land Rover ABS capability (such as the Autel AL-619) to find out what codes are actually being displayed. In my case, it was a wheel speed sensor gone bad, and replacing it was neither expensive nor terribly time consuming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didn't take any pictures, sorry. It's all pretty obvious once you have the rotor off and can see it. The sensor head itself is a small stainless can that projects down into the hub. The lead comes off at a right angle and heads inward to the vehicle centerline. There is a tab on the sensor head with a clearance hole in it. An Allen cap screw holds the sensor head down to the hub. The sensor head is sealed to the hub with an O ring. Make sure your new sensor has one and if so, remove the old one from the hub.

The only tricky part is feeding the wire through the hub and steering knuckle. The hard (but most proper) way would be the separate the hub entirely and move it out just a trifle to allow clearance. The easy way is to force the connector through the hole. The connector is made of rigid plastic but there is enough give there to allow you to push it through using a flat bladed screwdriver and a little gentle persuasion with a small hammer or the heel of your hand. It popped through and was not damaged. The rest is a doddle.

So far, so good.
 

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I know this thread is stupid-old, but I'm curious if someone could point me in the direction of the TSB in question. I have searched and searched and have found nothing. I am receiving the rough road implausible message, too, and would love to look into it further. Thanks for any assistance!
 

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I know this thread is stupid-old, but I'm curious if someone could point me in the direction of the TSB in question. I have searched and searched and have found nothing. I am receiving the rough road implausible message, too, and would love to look into it further. Thanks for any assistance!
The TSB mentioned in this thread is about fitting connectorless wheel speed sensors instead of those with plugs which IMO is quite useless, https://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/uploads/2/3/9/8/2398536/abs_sensor_overlay_harness.pdf if you get a rough rode related P code from the engine management using a OBD2 scanner it has nothing to do with the ABS sensors, it's about the signal betwen the SLABS ECU and ECM... if it's about the ABS sensor inputs you get 3 amigos and sensor related fault code which is not shown by generic OBD2 scanner,
 

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Jason, are the Three Amigos illuminated on your truck? If so, have you had the ABS codes read to diagnose the fault that is causing the problem? Without the codes you are shooting in the dark.

The 1590 code appears whenever the Three Amigos are triggered, regardless of what the fault is in the ABS system.
 

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Jason, are the Three Amigos illuminated on your truck? If so, have you had the ABS codes read to diagnose the fault that is causing the problem? Without the codes you are shooting in the dark.

The 1590 code appears whenever the Three Amigos are triggered, regardless of what the fault is in the ABS system.
Indeed. I have the Atlantic British iLand module and app and the Three Amigos are very much up on the dash. The fault keeps showing as an erratic signal from the right front sensor. I also get Rough Road Signal Implausible after a short while. Thanks!
 

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Put a new hub there which will come with new sensor as well and IMO it'll be OK...no need for that overlay harness especially that it's about front, it might have a logic for rear sensors as those are routed through a connector in the engine bay too until the ECU but the sensor's plugs have strong connections
 

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Put a new hub there which will come with new sensor as well and IMO it'll be OK...no need for that overlay harness especially that it's about front, it might have a logic for rear sensors as those are routed through a connector in the engine bay too until the ECU but the sensor's plugs have strong connections
I may just do that. I've read a number of success stories about folks just purchasing a sensor and replacing it vs a whole new hub. Thoughts? I am very mechanically inclined and have no problem doing the work. Just curious if it's worth it or if I should just bite the bullet and replace the whole hub. It, otherwise, looks to be in very good condition.
 

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The diagnostic machine should show if the sensor is OK or not on live stationary input, in most cases if the input is OK the problem is caused by play in the reluctor ring, a faulty sensor should have wrong input compared to the others, you can unplug it, use a multimeter and check resistance across the pins in it's plug, if it's between 950-1100 Ohm the sensor is most probably OK. In 90% of cases i've seen, and i've seen a lot if the sensor's values were ok simply replacing the sensor didnt help much
 
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Before you go to the trouble of replacing the hub or even just the sensor try this.

Last week I was going to cut out the cylindrical connector between the sensor and the harness and connect the wires with butt splices, but instead I reached down into the female half of the connector with my needle nose pliers and deformed/crimped just slightly the two female parts that mate with the pins in the male half of the connector. I'd done this with my Vise-Grips a few years ago when a battery terminal wouldn't tighten down far enough and it worked great.

The connectors are a known failure point in the system, and if this method doesn't work you've spent only about five minutes trying it. I drove my truck ~120 miles over 11 drive cycles last weekend after doing it and so far, so good. Prior to that the Boys from South of the Border would have visited again well within that number of miles and drive cycles.
 

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It's enough to use nanoprotech or high quality contact cleaner in those plugs if that's what you think it's the problem but IMO those connectors are not a common failure(max. 10% of cases) unless they are exposed to harsh enviromment too much.
 

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... but IMO those connectors are not a common failure(max. 10% of cases) unless they are exposed to harsh enviromment too much.
Fery, I respect your opinions and your contributions to this forum, but a highly-regarded contributor on another active forum who has addressed wheel speed sensor problems on not only his trucks but those owned by several others reports that the connector is often the problem, plus Land Rover changed to WSSs without the connectors due to them being a known failure point, with replacement sensors now supplied with enough wire to reach all the way to the SLABS.

Plus in my personal experience, the connector has been the problem 100% of the time an erratic wheel speed sensor signal was indicated. I know that's a sample set of only two, but ... And further to my earlier point, it's an easy, expense-free thing to try.

I look forward to hearing how it turns out for the OP.
 
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