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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,

I looked around at some of the other posts and I am starting to get a little concerned.

I have a 2004 Disco II with about 140k miles on it. about 10 months ago it overheated while on the highway and after getting a mechanic who replaced the water pump things seemed fine (although I still had a slight leak from the throttle bodly thermal plate). But now I am having an issue that if I drive to the store and back the reservoir is boiling, all the fluid is leaking out of the overflow and the temperature gauge is redlining.

I don't see any grey smoke and I imagine I could do with an oil change but haven't really had any other issues with it. I do know the fan in front of the radiator isn't spinning but it hasnt for a while and I have never really had issues with it.

I was going to change the thermostat but when I called Atlantic British concerning the part and issue they said due to it boiling that it is pressurized and can really only be head gaskets or cracked block.

I am not a mechanic and I am also going through a rough financial time. A thermostat replacement I could do but they are saying that it wouldn't be that or a clogged radiator in that short amount of time. wanted to see what you guys thought.

If its a severe issue I wont be able to afford the expensive repairs and might have to cut my losses. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I haven't actually replaced it yet because of what the guys over at Atlantic British told me and assured me it wasn't an issue of the thermostat. Did you have a similar problem and could it still really be just a bad thermo?

Thanks for your reply
 

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Thermostat could be stuck. I'm not 100% but I think I'd check that first.
I know for sure if it isn't installed correctly it will overheat quickly. I know because I installed mine incorrectly before. If you haven't replaced it though then it's probably in correctly, just might be sticking. check into that fan issue too man
 

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Are you sure it is boiling? It may be excessive air in the system and requires proper bleeding
(Search proper bleed procedure threads)

As a test.... What happens if you run it at idle with the cap off?
 

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Almost impossible to install one of these thermostats wrong BUT make sure it gets bled properly.
 

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You really screwed-up and dropped the ball big-time by not installing a secondary temperature gauge. It is a well-known fact that the factory coolant temp gauge in the cluster on the later Disco2s is extremely unreliable. If it even starts to move up past 3:00 o'clock, like it's starting to get hot, you have already over-heated the engine well before the needle even gets close to the red. It sounds like you have let the engine run to that point on several occasions. Even if your engine is consistently running at over 220-230 degrees, which you would never know without some other source that specifies the exact coolant temp, there could be irreparable damage to the block. The only thing that you can do at this point is to purchase a chemical block tester from the auto parts store and check to see if there are exhaust gasses present in the cooling system. After you do that, report back to the thread with the final analysis. If negative for exhaust gas, we can help you fix it. If it tests positive, you are **** out of luck. Do not drive it any more until you find out the results, as there is always a very slight chance that it is salvageable. But continue overheating the engine and you will have a cracked block to show for it....if it isn't already. AB was mostly right, in that over-pressurization of the coolant system is most often due to exhaust gas entering the coolant system through a broken head-gasket or through a crack in the block between the cylinders. Common issue on these trucks as people are unaware of how hot they are actually running the coolant. Most likely scenario is the block and/or gasket faulted when the water pump went out and motor got way too hot
 

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Chubbs,

I want a 2ndary temp guage - tell us more, please.
If you google "automotive temperature gauge" you can look at images and see what I'm talking about. You will actually be way better off with what is called a Scangauge. It doesn't require any mechanic'n, as this type plugs into the OBD port and basically displays what is being monitored in your vehicles ECU. The other types of oil pressure and water temperature gauges are usually hard-tapped or plumbed into the engine system. I have an OBD that not only reads and clears fault codes, but also provides a secondary system that does what the Scangauge does and displays everything that is being monitored in the ECU. It is a BOsch that I purchased from Oreillys Auto. You gotta know what your coolant temps are. If it's over 210 degrees, start replacing stuff. You want your operating temps close to 200, preferably a little under that. People that have no idea are probably around 220 and will unassumingly be looking forward to head gasket replacement
 

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Cap?

Have you tried replacing your coolant reservoir cap yet? Cheap and a possible cause of boil over.

+1 on recommendation of actual temp monitoring such as a ScanGaugeII. Easy plug & play with a decent code reader too.

......
 

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P76Rangie x 2
I have multiple scan tools but use this the most
and i use the free Torque app on my phone or tablet
all the live data you want for $7
cheers
Barri
 

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Glad it was a simple fix. Thanks for adding your finding - too many threads end with no recorded resolution.
cheers
Barri
 
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