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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, this will be my first official thread started on LandRoversOnly... I first just want to thank each and every person on here, you guys have helped in soo many ways...

So the problem I'm having with my Discovery has totally taken me out, and I refuse to throw parts at it not knowing what I'm actually throwing parts at. But it's my daily driver, and only transportation so I need to figure this out ASAP. My issues started soon after I had to get a new battery and crankshaft sensor... The problems I'm having are a VERY rough idle at red lights, particularly long red lights. I begin to feel a rumble, and then my RPM's taken sudden drop, almost as if my Landy is about to just die out.

Since this has happened, I've had full tune up, in hopes that it would maybe be the spark plugs, but to no avail... Air filter is spotless, throttle head has been cleaned. :eek I'm stumped. She sounds like a champ when running. I've searched the forums and found a few people dealing with the the same issues but they've all turned out to be something different.

For kicks here's a bit more info:

2000 Land Rover Discover II - 161,345 miles
SES Light is Now On
(Symptoms above are worse since the light has been on)

Pulled codes and here is what I'm dealing with:
P0440
P0340
P0560
P1536


SOMEONE, ANYONE, HELP ! :frown Is there anyway Mike can teleport !? Lol.

Thanks guys !
 

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P0440 is evaporative emissions so not likely
P0340 is camshaft position sensor related, likely due to running rough...?..
P1536 is a/c again not likely

P0560 is system voltage LOW
In my opinion that would be the best place to start.
Test / have the charging system properly tested. Defective battery? Bad terminal connection? Charging system fault?
Don't be fooled Just because the battery is new.
Get her tested and let us know.
 
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I agree with the advice above. Start with the electrical system. Have the alternator, battery, and connections checked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
P0440 is evaporative emissions so not likely
P0340 is camshaft position sensor related, likely due to running rough...?..
P1536 is a/c again not likely

P0560 is system voltage LOW
In my opinion that would be the best place to start.
Test / have the charging system properly tested. Defective battery? Bad terminal connection? Charging system fault?
Don't be fooled Just because the battery is new.
Get her tested and let us know.
Well guys, ran and got her tested a couple times.... She's running at 14.07, and with a load she's at 13.86. This is about where it should be to my understanding. I have no clue what is going on. This has been on going for about a month. I've had a couple of my LR buddies come by and take a look, and they're just as clueless as me at this point. I hate to say it, but I'm almost ready to give up on her.
 

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Since you had plugs replaced 2 questions, are they the correct spec plug, this is important but not nearly as important as the condition of the plug wires, have they been replaced. Old wires will create havoc when pulled off old plugs and reinstalled on new. They break at the plug connector tip inside the boot creating a gap that is overcome generally off idle or as you say when running.
If you are not certain as to their condition you can use this trick which is old as the sun, get a plant atomizer, in the dark, start the truck and carefully and lightly mist the air around the spark plug boot, if there is a break in the plug wire or the insulation is worn out from heat cycles and age it will begin a lightening show as the spark goes to ground on the surface area about the plug on the cylinder head. It's important to not saturate the area, simply a fine mist right at the plug wire and boot and where the plug lead crosses the rear of the valve cover. Keep the mist away from the alternator, MAF and other electrical components that do not tolerate liquids. Good Luck!

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Since you had plugs replaced 2 questions, are they the correct spec plug, this is important but not nearly as important as the condition of the plug wires, have they been replaced. Old wires will create havoc when pulled off old plugs and reinstalled on new. They break at the plug connector tip inside the boot creating a gap that is overcome generally off idle or as you say when running.
If you are not certain as to their condition you can use this trick which is old as the sun, get a plant atomizer, in the dark, start the truck and carefully and lightly mist the air around the spark plug boot, if there is a break in the plug wire or the insulation is worn out from heat cycles and age it will begin a lightening show as the spark goes to ground on the surface area about the plug on the cylinder head. It's important to not saturate the area, simply a fine mist right at the plug wire and boot and where the plug lead crosses the rear of the valve cover. Keep the mist away from the alternator, MAF and other electrical components that do not tolerate liquids. Good Luck!

Doug

Hey Doug ! Thanks for the for the suggestion ! I'd have a bit of problem believing it'd be the wires... When tune up was done, had new wires, along with new plugs. Not to mention, it started this behavior well before the tune up, which why I got the tune up. Bosch Plats for the plugs, and NGK's for the wire set is what's in her. Could this be a sensor, or IACV ? Maybe not.. I'm just guessing at this point. But guessing can also wreck havoc in your pockets...
 

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If you can eliminate the plugs and wires that lessens the burden. Normally the idle control valve won't cause a code you have listed but can certainly disrupt idle. A dirty or bad TPS can as well, or even moisture in the connectors.

More importantly, check to see that the intake plastic piping behind the MAF but before the throttle plate is intact without leaks from cracks, tears or loose fittings. Many times a tear will occur under the pipe in the corrugated area that is small enough to cause unmetered air to enter the intake, can't feel it while running but certainly will at idle. Check to see that the IACV tube into the throttle assembly has a good seal also, another source of unmetered air intrusion, the front left area (facing engine) of the intake where vacuum lines are fitted or capped is another problematic area in older models; follow these lines to their connection source to check integrity across the entire length of the line.
One of the issues I found when doing studs a couple weeks ago were loose intake manifold, intake plenum bolts, by loose I mean not even finger tight. Check the valve cover to intake hoses for leaks. The most accurate detection is to have the engine smoke tested. The cost of the machine is generally out of reach for the home mechanic, but good shops have them and use them daily to detect even minor intake leaks that wreak havoc on high tech engines. Not having any idea of your mechanical background I would suggest you DO NOT use any flammable spray to check for leaks, yes leaks can be detected with them used properly, but a small mistake will ignite the aerosol beginning a chemical fire, EXTREMELY DANGEROUS WAY TO LOCATE A POTENTIAL LEAK.
Provided the previous work has been done properly, the parts although new are checked for integrity, the replaced sensors are working properly, smoke testing is where I would go next, considering the electrical check proved within spec. Likely you will find smoke coming from the intake area, it's inevitable in older engines, then determining if the leak will affect idle will be the next step, a competent mechanic familiar with smoke testing can tell you.
Stay on it, you will find the gremlin. Do as much diagnostic work as you can afford or do it yourself to get the correct repair, might be nothing more than tightening bolts to spec, replacing gaskets or hoses.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey guys ! Just wanted to update you.. So ran a check on the codes again, same ones. I went ahead and cleared them. I then unclasped the IACV and gave it a clean and a refreshing spray. It was CLEARLY sticking, and sticking bad. Once cleaned, it was rattling like it was supposed to. Hooked the old guy back up, and she's been back to normal. Took her for an hour drive. No RPM drop during the idle. Idling is still just a little rough, but it hasn't acted like it was going to give out on me like before... Leads me to wonder, was it just that the IACV was sticking ? Has anyone else had a sticky IACV, and did it cause the symptoms I initially wrote about ? I'll be putting her on the road these next couple days, 40min - 1HR drives both ways. We'll see how she performs !
 

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Sticking I. a C. Seems common. Are the codes gone now?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sticking I. a C. Seems common. Are the codes gone now?
Well, haven't had the issues I described, but usually they don't come until after the SES light comes on... So I've been driving her around, usually the SES light would trigger by now.. Or sometime soon ! Hopefully not... BUT I pulled the codes and got some new errors.. Any help on these guys ? I've been checking up, and apparently it's a leak.

P0447
P1174
P1171
 

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P0447 is evaporate system vent control.... open I think?
P0171 and p0174 are likely a air leak / vacuum leak . Could be many things, air intake duct, vacuum line, intake gasket, injector seal at intake ( that was what mine was torn o ring where injector seals in the manifold)
With the 3 codes you have, might make sense to check the evap line first
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just when I thought it was over.........................

P0447 is evaporate system vent control.... open I think?
P0171 and p0174 are likely a air leak / vacuum leak . Could be many things, air intake duct, vacuum line, intake gasket, injector seal at intake ( that was what mine was torn o ring where injector seals in the manifold)
With the 3 codes you have, might make sense to check the evap line first

Well I'd love if it was that simple for me. Because I come bearing bad news today guys, I thought cleaning the IACV had taken care of everything, and it did for a couple days.. But on a 36 mile trip today, it did the same BS. Felt a small rumble in the truck, then boom.. The RPM's drop, and then kick back up like she's having a heartache or something. Do you guys think it may just be time for a new IACV ??? I mean, cleaning it did show improvement.
 

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Used throttle body cleaner.
Prior experience has taught me a bit of lubrication after cleaning actuators may help prevent sticking. Have not cleaned/lubed on my D2 yet so have no specific recommendation of what to use. Easy enough and might be worth a shot if sticking again.
......
 

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Maybe try to contact P.T. Schram or Paul grant. ( both regulars and supporters of this site)
They both specialize in parts for these trucks.
I have parted out 2 d2s in the past 2 years and I.a.c. Valves were one of the first things to sell for me.
Good luck.dont give up.
If you wanted a trouble free truck you would not own a Land Rover;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Maybe try to contact P.T. Schram or Paul grant. ( both regulars and supporters of this site)
They both specialize in parts for these trucks.
I have parted out 2 d2s in the past 2 years and I.a.c. Valves were one of the first things to sell for me.
Good luck.dont give up.
If you wanted a trouble free truck you would not own a Land Rover;)
Hahaha. I know... It's such a love and hate relationship with her. So is it a general consensus that this is what may very well be the problem ? I would hate to do this, and it end up being something else. But, hey.. I guess you never know until you try. Anyone have any of these symptoms with the I.A.C. ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Looks a lot better than it really is ! It's horrible...

Hey guys, I finally got the gremlin in action. Check out the video and please see if you can help me in any way, form or fashion. I just ordered the new IAC.. Hasn't come in yet, but trust me... It doesnt look as bad on camera, but IT IS ! The loss of power that comes with the RPM drop is ridiculous... But then it kicks back up and everything is back to normal.... Literally at every red light....


Right at about 4 seconds.


http:///youtu.be/GoHqxLo3Vb4
 
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