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94 Defender 90
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that it has started to cool down, I've been noticing just how badly my Rangie has been running on a cold start up. I don't know if it's running rich or what, but there's just not much power and runs rough overall. After 2 or 3 minutes it smoothes out and feels fine. Also, my oil light stays illuminated for about 10 - 20 seconds after start up then flashes. I know the flashing is supposed to indicate a low oil level, but I know the level is fine.

A few months ago, I put a new thermostat in it since the old one had bit the dust. Is something wrong? Some connection bad? Or is this normal?
 

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Sounds like you have 2 problems. Have you ever tried to flush your engine crank case? Might be the time, if that doesn't work consider pulling the oil pan, clean out the sludge, clean and reinstall the oil pick up tube and see what happens.
You might also want to pull and inspect your plugs, wires and cap and rotor. If you don't find anything there then your probably looking more towards a temp sensor.
Good luck,
Mike J.
 

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My 89 did the same thing when cold, ended up being the timing was out of wack..........
 

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94 Defender 90
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Disco Mike said:
Sounds like you have 2 problems. Have you ever tried to flush your engine crank case? Might be the time, if that doesn't work consider pulling the oil pan, clean out the sludge, clean and reinstall the oil pick up tube and see what happens.
You might also want to pull and inspect your plugs, wires and cap and rotor. If you don't find anything there then your probably looking more towards a temp sensor.
Good luck,
Mike J.
I haven't tried to flush out my crank. How would I go about doing that? Change it, drive a hundred miles or so, then change it again? I don't really want to drop the oil pan until the spring if I don't have to.

My 89 did the same thing when cold, ended up being the timing was out of wack..........
That'd be great if that was the problem! I'll check that.
 

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cellulararrest said:
I haven't tried to flush out my crank. How would I go about doing that? Change it, drive a hundred miles or so, then change it again? I don't really want to drop the oil pan until the spring if I don't have to.


That'd be great if that was the problem! I'll check that.
ATF works pretty good to desludge an engine...you can drive on it for a while too as it just high detergent oil instead of a solvent/degreaser. I'd drop the sump pan and scrape the goodness out first...clean your oil PU and check your rod bearing freeplay while your in there. I'd suspect the logic unit for your oil light problems...I'd play it safe untill you can isolate the problem.
 

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94 Defender 90
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
scuffdog said:
I'd suspect the logic unit for your oil light problems...I'd play it safe untill you can isolate the problem.
Alright thanks. I was wondering about the logic unit as well. Sounds like next time I change my oil (which should be soon), I should drop the pan. I assume it isn't that difficult? There's nothing in the way that I would have to move? Just unbolt and drop? I haven't gone under to look at it at all.
 

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I think you have to drop the track rod out of the way to get the pan to clear the oil pick (discon one balljoint and the stabilizer)...it definately makes it easier to get access to al the pan bolts. Biggest pain in the ass of the whole job is scraping the old RTV compound out of the pan rim.
 

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94 Defender 90
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This morning it was quite cold, and when I started it up it smelled very rich and was definitely running too rich for a few minutes. I've never had this problem so I'm wondering where to start. I assume it's a sensor, but I wouldn't have a clue as to which one.

Thanks for any input.
 

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There are two sensors feeding info to the injection ECU, they would be the ones two check resistance vs. temp on. If the temp outside was extremley cold, and the gas smell went away after the engine heated...I wouldn't worry about as long as it's not a cronic problem.
 

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94 Defender 90
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, it went away. It just doesn't seem right because it really doesn't run right and sputters when I pull out of a parking space or my driveway. You sure that's normal? It wasn'y really cold. Just colder than its been normally. About 25 degrees fahrenheit
 

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You shouldn't be getting a much shudder, after the first block or so out of a cold blooded engine...Are you having hot start problems? I'd look at three things: fuel temp sensor and coolant temp sensor being the first two, carbon vent canister being the third. Here's a link to the ECU test sheets someone posted on rangie.com up http://www.rangie.com/articles_topic.php?id=167&cat=6&subCat=26 I'd test out the components and see what you find. If nothing tests out strange, I'd clean the MAF sensor, and check the resistance on your injectors.
 
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