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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My current project on my Disco is repairing some rust on the driver's side floorboard. The previous owner stupidly decided to remove the wiring grommet from the firewall to run his amp power cable instead of properly squeezing it through, leaving some pretty insane rust. Nothing structural is damaged, it's just body.

I cut a plate to cover the infected area (after proper cleanup and prepping, of course) with intention to weld it in. Having never welded before, I passed it off to a friend who's done fabrication work before. Unfortunately, the only type of welding he'd done is MIG, and I couldn't track down anyone nearby with a MIG welder.

So, the question is, how do I put this thing in? Arc welding will burn a hole right through the floor, we already tried it with test pieces. Brazing, a method highly recommended by the author of a welding book we picked up, is taking exceptionally long, and tends to catch the body/chassis undercoating on fire. Given the location of the spot, I'm afraid it'll damage wires at this rate.

Any suggestions? I'm on a limited budget, so buying a MIG or TIG welder is out, as well as taking it somewhere. Thanks.
 

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I had a huge rust problem on a dodge i had.....There was only one wa for me....To weld in a new floor...Not sure what else to tell you!!! :dunno:
 

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I had an '89 Rangie that had some sizable rust holes on both the driverside and passenger side. Fortunately, there was enough solid flooring left that I was able to clean it up and use new sheetmetal cut to fit the holes. I used 3M 8115 panel adhesive to bond the sheetmetal to the rest of the floor that was still good. I then used POR-15 on the inside and out to finish off the rustproofing. It lasted a few years before more serious problems brought about it's ultimate demise.

3M's 8115 is amazing stuff. It's what most bodyshops use these days in place of welding tricky areas on new cars. The bond is as strong as a weld and it seals! I put together the rear tub of my Series III using it and it was stronger than the tack welding Land Rover used. If you doubt me just talk to a few knowledgeable bodyshop owners. The only catch is that it is a two part adhesive so you either buy the expensive applicator gun (a couple of hundred dollars) or you squeeze the stuff out in small batches, mix it and use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Paul Grant said:
I had an '89 Rangie that had some sizable rust holes on both the driverside and passenger side. Fortunately, there was enough solid flooring left that I was able to clean it up and use new sheetmetal cut to fit the holes. I used 3M 8115 panel adhesive to bond the sheetmetal to the rest of the floor that was still good. I then used POR-15 on the inside and out to finish off the rustproofing. It lasted a few years before more serious problems brought about it's ultimate demise.

3M's 8115 is amazing stuff. It's what most bodyshops use these days in place of welding tricky areas on new cars. The bond is as strong as a weld and it seals! I put together the rear tub of my Series III using it and it was stronger than the tack welding Land Rover used. If you doubt me just talk to a few knowledgeable bodyshop owners. The only catch is that it is a two part adhesive so you either buy the expensive applicator gun (a couple of hundred dollars) or you squeeze the stuff out in small batches, mix it and use it.
Hmm, very interesting, I hadn't thought of something like that. Where might I find this magical substance?
 

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3M 8115 should be available through any quality auto parts store. I even bought some on Ebay once. It's about $40 for a tube which will be more than you'll ever need for fixing a couple of holes in the floor. I have used it numerous times on my Rovers and have always been very pleased with the outcome.
 

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Felix,
Here you go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3M-8...63702QQitemZ4595609931QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

That's for a two pack with a "Buy It Now" price of $60. A pretty good deal but it will take you a long time to go through that much. Naturally, the normal disclaimers must follow. I am not the seller nor related in anyway to the seller of these products and any endorsement on my part should be taken with a grain of salt!
 
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