Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, new Rover owner here with a 2004 Discovery SE7. Runs very good despite the "Tick" and a minor coolant leak that I will be diving into as soon as possible.

My question right now is about the SAI Pump. I noticed that mine has all three rubber mounting bolts are broken, and it's just kind of laying there. I don't have any lights on the dash at all, but don't have anyway to scan to see if there are hidden codes regarding the SAI Pump.

Would this pump not being mounted cause any issues? I plan to fix it, but I have a few other things that I would rather prioritize if possible.


Thanks!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
It probably took you as much time to register on this site, take that picture and write the post as it would to fix that mount. It's supposed to be mounted. The pump isn't fragile, but it shouldn't be flopping around either.

I'd be a hell of alot more concerned with the coolant leak though. There's no such thing as a "minor" coolant leak on a Discovery. You're always one sneeze away from destroying your engine with the various cooling system issues these trucks have. The temp gauge is just a decoration- once the needle moves off center, you've most likely already popped a head gasket.

The Disco is about as far away from a low maintenance ride as you're ever going to get.

You need to familiarize yourself with the common issues of your truck and begin aggressively addressing them. There are many threads in this section dealing with them. Cooling system is #1 .
 

·
Wounded Knee Moderator
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
Codes are P1412 - P1417 on the SAI system. I'd at least zip tie it to something stable to prevent a departure..... how many miles on the clock? Man do you have your weekends cut out for you! A tick and a coolant leak, two most common faults with newly bought Disco II's in the 03/04 model years. What's your skill set, handy with tools or no? What color is the coolant, yellow/orange/brown or green? If it's Dexcool get rid of it, flush it and go with regular ol green. Where is the leak?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It probably took you as much time to register on this site, take that picture and write the post as it would to fix that mount. It's supposed to be mounted. The pump isn't fragile, but it shouldn't be flopping around either.

I'd be a hell of alot more concerned with the coolant leak though. There's no such thing as a "minor" coolant leak on a Discovery. You're always one sneeze away from destroying your engine with the various cooling system issues these trucks have. The temp gauge is just a decoration- once the needle moves off center, you've most likely already popped a head gasket.

The Disco is about as far away from a low maintenance ride as you're ever going to get.

You need to familiarize yourself with the common issues of your truck and begin aggressively addressing them. There are many threads in this section dealing with them. Cooling system is #1 .
The pump is off the mount, but it is pretty stationary where it is at. I just want to make sure it wasn't an issue if it wasn't in its mounted position. Someone linked me to the mounts, so they are on order.

I am aware that this is not a low maintenance ride, which is why I am here. Cooling system is number #1 on my list


Codes are P1412 - P1417 on the SAI system. I'd at least zip tie it to something stable to prevent a departure..... how many miles on the clock? Man do you have your weekends cut out for you! A tick and a coolant leak, two most common faults with newly bought Disco II's in the 03/04 model years. What's your skill set, handy with tools or no? What color is the coolant, yellow/orange/brown or green? If it's Dexcool get rid of it, flush it and go with regular ol green. Where is the leak?
I should mention that my mechanical skills are pretty basic. :serious I am pretty good at following directions and I'm not a complete idiot when handling a wrench.

I dont have a scanner so I can't see any codes. Would the check engine light be on with tripped codes? Or can there be codes thrown without turning the CEL on?

There are 150k miles. It had head gaskets, lifters, valve cover gaskets and thermostat and coolant flush done at 135k, but that was also 3 years ago. The coolant is still Dexcool. I don't think the leak is internal because I just changed the oil (used Rotella T6 and Mobil 1 filter) and it was dark but clean. No cloudiness or signs of coolant in the oil.

I took the car to the only Land Rover specialist here in Gainesville Florida and he said that the hoses all look to be new as well as the overflow tank, so I think all that was done with the Tstat. He said the leak looks like its dripping on or around the transfer case and timing chain. So I am thinking that it is the water pump or gasket or both.

So since I live in a pretty warm climate, I was going to still replace the tstat with the 180f warm climate option, as well as flush the system and switch to the green coolant. I will also change the water pump and gasket when I do that and hopefully that fixes the leak.

In regards to the tick, it only comes when the engine is fully warm, so I am hoping the switch to the 180f tstat might quiet her down a little. I do believe it is the loose sleeve tick
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
A loose pump won't cause codes, but rattling around will lead to a problem that might in the future. The tube between the pump and the SAI is not very robust- I'm surprised it hasn't broken and I'd not be surprised to learn that it's already been replaced with a piece of heater hose.

You say you don't think the leak is internal- that leads one to believe that you're losing coolant and it's not on the ground. There's no real easy path inside the engine for coolant to leak into the crankcase. The coolant passages are at the ends of the head- they typically will leak to the outside. If it's leaking internally, it's leaking into a cylinder. Look at your plugs for differing colors on insulators. Liner noise and losing coolant are a combination you need to investigate more deeply. That being said, you may just have lifter noise. new lifters on an old cam isn't the best idea.

The problem with head gasket repair is that it's only as good as the guy doing it. I bought one last year that had recent head gaskets by a Jag/Rover specialist and had popped again shortly thereafter- three broken head bolts. Bought another late fall and the head prep looked like someone resurfaced it with a 60 grit disc on an electric drill.

Get a coolant pressure tester and keep pressure on it for a good, long time. End leaks on the backs of the heads are very tough to see- you'll likley have to drop the mounts to get a good look. If you're not seeing any leaks, pull the plugs and see if it's seeping into a cylinder. You may have to get it nice and warm to get it to leak- but the insulator test will also be a good tell-tale on liner leak.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A loose pump won't cause codes, but rattling around will lead to a problem that might in the future. The tube between the pump and the SAI is not very robust- I'm surprised it hasn't broken and I'd not be surprised to learn that it's already been replaced with a piece of heater hose.

You say you don't think the leak is internal- that leads one to believe that you're losing coolant and it's not on the ground. There's no real easy path inside the engine for coolant to leak into the crankcase. The coolant passages are at the ends of the head- they typically will leak to the outside. If it's leaking internally, it's leaking into a cylinder. Look at your plugs for differing colors on insulators. Liner noise and losing coolant are a combination you need to investigate more deeply. That being said, you may just have lifter noise. new lifters on an old cam isn't the best idea.

The problem with head gasket repair is that it's only as good as the guy doing it. I bought one last year that had recent head gaskets by a Jag/Rover specialist and had popped again shortly thereafter- three broken head bolts. Bought another late fall and the head prep looked like someone resurfaced it with a 60 grit disc on an electric drill.

Get a coolant pressure tester and keep pressure on it for a good, long time. End leaks on the backs of the heads are very tough to see- you'll likley have to drop the mounts to get a good look. If you're not seeing any leaks, pull the plugs and see if it's seeping into a cylinder. You may have to get it nice and warm to get it to leak- but the insulator test will also be a good tell-tale on liner leak.
That's good advice for someone that just mentioned they have very limited mechanical skills....

Anyone else?
 

·
Wounded Knee Moderator
Joined
·
1,904 Posts
Would the check engine light be on with tripped codes? Or can there be codes thrown without turning the CEL on?
Pending codes will not trip the CEL. Yes the CEL would be on with active codes.

Sounds like you're doing ok from my chair, headed in the right directions with it. I say keep on keeping on with your plan. Being that your in a warm climate you can increase the oil viscosity to 20W50 and that may quiet the tick even further.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Pending codes will not trip the CEL. Yes the CEL would be on with active codes.

Sounds like you're doing ok from my chair, headed in the right directions with it. I say keep on keeping on with your plan. Being that your in a warm climate you can increase the oil viscosity to 20W50 and that may quiet the tick even further.
Thanks for the suggestion on oil. I will give that a go next oil change. I have read many, many mixed reviews on which oil to use, so I wont even ask that question. LOL

I called Advanced Auto and found the rubber mounts for $3 each and they will be in wednesday. I will also be renting a radiator pressure test kit to see if I can't find the leak before assuming anything. Never used one of these before, but it seems fairly straight forward. Since we don't have radiator caps, I assume I am pressure checking through the cap on the fill reservoir? do I need to cap off the bleed hose coming from that in order to maintain pressure in the system?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
Are you talking about the overflow tube? That only works when the cap pressure is exceeded.

You should probably get a new rad cap while you're at it. Get an OEM. It's the BMW design and they are known to cause issues. The tester you rent most likely won't have the correct adapter so you can't check the cap and you'll have to use the universal adapter for the tank. You'll need to pressurize to 20PSI
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you talking about the overflow tube? That only works when the cap pressure is exceeded.

You should probably get a new rad cap while you're at it. Get an OEM. It's the BMW design and they are known to cause issues. The tester you rent most likely won't have the correct adapter so you can't check the cap and you'll have to use the universal adapter for the tank. You'll need to pressurize to 20PSI
Just to verify that I am reading correctly.. I will pressure test through the cap on the reservoir tank, correct? And that is the cap you are suggesting I replace? There is no radiator cap that I see...

I can't post links, but is it this one from RoversNorth? Part# RND344
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,578 Posts
Sorry- I used rad cap in the generic sense. The only cap is the one on the expansion tank. If your test kit has the adapter for the 90's through early 2000's BMW, it will test the system and possibly the cap. But it's unlikely. You'll have to use the universal adapter which is a tapered plug that expands.

Those caps have always been problematic, driving many BMW owners crazy for many years. It's worth it to have one in your glovebox. Don't use the BMW unit as it's a higher pressure- 30PSI.

One very common leakage area on the D2 is the throttle body heater. The system circulates a small volume of coolant out of the intake manifold to keep the TB from icing on cold startup. Where you're located, you can just remove it and block the lines. You'll eliminate two common failure points- the TB manifold cap and that plastic line. Make sure to take a close look at the overflow tank- they're notorious for cracking. Also the recirc line from the top left of the radiator tank back to the bottle. That nipple in the plastic side tank of the radiator cracks easily- it's very typical to see half-assed epoxy repairs that leak.

Being in a hot area, make sure your clutch fan is operating properly. They can function, but not fully engage. Also, confirm that your aux fan works. It cycles for a few second immediately at cold startup and is on any time the AC is set to max.

I would also consider getting one of the digital gauge units that plugs into your OBD port- they can provide pre-set warning alarms. This is about the last vehicle you'd ever want to overheat. Any sign of overheat and you'd better be lunging for that key to shut it down. i've joked before that the Rover is equipped with a "Replace Engine" gauge.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top