(Sorry, I meant to put this in series II section). Hi all, first post here. There's a 2002 Discovery II which I'm considering purchasing from the original owner. Only got 116K on it but it's had a new engine installed some 50K ago when the h-gaskets went earlier in it's life. The rig is VERY nice, full maint records, new tires... I can pick it up for 1K, such a deal... (or so I think). So it's been sitting a while and started it up for a bit. First thing I noticed tho was no water in the oil... it's going "elsewhere". The thing that concerns me a little is there is a slight noise, sounds like it's coming from the top end (?).... slight tapping upon acceleration, not audible at idle. Its it possible that this noise is fairly harmless and due to water where it's not supposed to be? Owner claims this noise only happened after the HG issue, and also said that it didn't get "really hot" at all, had it towed immediately. I dunno, any thought's appreciated... thanks
Slight noise after blown h-gasket
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Man, you gotta be kidding me. Hope that's not the case, will know soon enuf because I own it now. Will let y'all know.
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The tapping could be a rod bearing - one old trick is to take a wooden broom handle and push it against the block on either side as low as you can. The other end of the handle goes against your upper jaw just where the jaw meets your ear. Now listen to the engine running at idle and at about 1500 rpms. "See" if you can localize the sound to one place along the block.
Of course, if it's a dropped liner, there will be other symptoms besides sound... there have been comments about the quality Rover V8 castings as the years went by - the "new engine" that was installed, where did it come from?
Why would the engine be replaced at 65K miles - did the PO say what the problem was?
Here's hoping it's just a bad lifter.
Of course, if it's a dropped liner, there will be other symptoms besides sound... there have been comments about the quality Rover V8 castings as the years went by - the "new engine" that was installed, where did it come from?
Why would the engine be replaced at 65K miles - did the PO say what the problem was?
Here's hoping it's just a bad lifter.
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It's also possible that the ticking could be a cracked exhaust manifold. Is there any soot around them? My 4.0 has always had a slight tick from New and the dealer said it's" normal". 180K later and it's still ticking...
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They replaced the block cuz the HG's went out, and I guess they had the money and figured a new motor was better (logic of the well off). To my chagrin after telling me she had full service records, the new story is recent divorce, no one can find the box, they are looking. Don't know the origins of the block exactly but a dealership procured it so it's probably factory...? Yah could be a rod but kinda doubt it, will know soon plan to dive in asap. If I see a clear HG failure I'll do new ones and hope for the best... if it still makes the noise I'll just get my 1500 back out and cut my losses, really don't have time to make this a month long project. BAD idea (or just medium dumb) to drive it 60 ft to where I plan to work on it? Hard to get into the spot but I'd hate to make this a contest of incompressible water and irresistable force lol. Also wish I could spell.
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It's a positive starting point that you didn't pay much for the vehicle... but, would the "Lady" take the car back and refund your money? What about $800 back?
I've done head gaskets on this engine myself and can tell you there's a fair bit of fuss involved if you want to do a really good job. If you can get it done for $500, you are doing very well. My costs were north of $800 including careful decoke, trueness & cracking test, valve grind, new valve guide seals, quality gaskets and it took me two full weekends with a week in between. Make sure you use new head bolts and that they are quality items not the rubbish available cheaper. Make sure you have all necessary tools handy (Haynes manual, quality 6 point sockets (I broke one removing a head bolt), gasket scraper, angle gauge etc., etc.), a helper.
Best of luck. Pavel.
I've done head gaskets on this engine myself and can tell you there's a fair bit of fuss involved if you want to do a really good job. If you can get it done for $500, you are doing very well. My costs were north of $800 including careful decoke, trueness & cracking test, valve grind, new valve guide seals, quality gaskets and it took me two full weekends with a week in between. Make sure you use new head bolts and that they are quality items not the rubbish available cheaper. Make sure you have all necessary tools handy (Haynes manual, quality 6 point sockets (I broke one removing a head bolt), gasket scraper, angle gauge etc., etc.), a helper.
Best of luck. Pavel.
Well, I'd never ask a person to buy a car back unless I felt defrauded, which I certainly don't and besides my curiosity has been piqued- must see what it is! The noise is an exhaust leak of some sort... upon listening to it more closely, whether or not it's a crack or not remains to be seen. Coolant leaking to the outside on the right, no water in the oil. I've a feeling that it's just a head gasket, will know more tomorrow. These vehicles are such a strange combinations of characteristics, both impressive and "otherwise".
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Fraud is a strong word.... but when a person says something and then doesn't follow through, I tend to suspect everything he/she has told me. Where are those records of maintenance work done? Perhaps the PO massaged the truth a bit...
I've purchased dozens of vehicles in my 50+ (after-high-school) years which has made me pretty cynical about humans.
Best of luck whatever you do.
Pavel
I've purchased dozens of vehicles in my 50+ (after-high-school) years which has made me pretty cynical about humans.
Best of luck whatever you do.
Pavel
Yes Pavel, you have a couple of good points there. I think I should have done a co2 sniffer test first off (ya think?)because the nipple to expansion tank is cracked... I can't see anywhere else where water was coming from yet either so could be it just has an exhaust leak of some sort and the heads are fine. I wonder if there is a "block tester" that does not require the motor to be running? If so I'm sure I can't get it around here anyway. Well since it did loose it's coolant and did get hot best to do the gaskets now anyway, heads are pretty much ready to come out.
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My 04 did the same thing-small ticking sound coming from the top passenger side of the engine. I did some inspecting and it was the header to Y pipe bolts that were loose so there was a bit of an exhaust leak. Some people said it would be a pain to remove, drill and redo the bolts but mine were simply loose and needed a little tightening. All good to go!!!
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