[130CC]

Ok does any one know what might cause a gearbox to feel sloppy or loose when changing gear's? I know that is's a vague description but it jsut seem's a little to easy to change gears some time and more difficuilt other times.
Thanks Adam

 

[scoobymick]

Ok does any one know what might cause a gearbox to feel sloppy or loose when changing gear's? I know that is's a vague description but it jsut seem's a little to easy to change gears some time and more difficuilt other times.
Thanks Adam

Have you checked the grub screw on the selector yoke is tight?
Mick

 

[TerryS]

Is your box an LT-77 or R380? Each have their own peculiarities, but common to both ar sticky detent springs and balls, especially the 5th/Reverse detent in the R380. Shifter gates get worn and don't evenly apply pressure to the changing gear cluster. Earlier R380s without the cross drilled main shafts develope alot of backlash, and eventually may strip but that won't cause sloppy shifting. I guess it's a bit warmer where you are than here in New England right now, but I'm finding gate detents slow to wake up in the colder morings (below 0.C)
Are you running synthetic ATF? That makes for a bit of an improvement.

 

[130CC]

Sorry I should have been more specific it's an r380 running synthetic oil,
Schoobymic if you mean that the grub screw on the selector yoke is the bias spring that holds the gear stick in the central position then yes I have checked this. Sorry I am good with electrices but my knoledge of gearboxes is basic at best. Terry what do you mean by the shifter gates?
Thanks for the help Adam

 

[stageonesimmo]

Theres a grub screw down in the bowels of the box(well a couple actually, but only one of them has a habit of falling out....) If you've taken the top casing off the box then you might have done it but if you havent, then you havent (if you see what I mean) Its difficult to describe where it is, but basically you need to take off the entire top of the box and fiddle around to get it tight - best way is to take the reverse switch out and then you can tighten it up whilst the box is in neutral.

If you do it, take the screw out and clean everything really well, then use the highest strength Loctite you can get your hands on (but obviously, NOT super glue..

Bri :beer:

 

[TerryS]

Sorry I should have been more specific it's an r380 running synthetic oil, Terry what do you mean by the shifter gates?
Thanks for the help Adam

My Defender workshop manual only covers the LT-77, but my parts manual covers both LT-77 and R380, and as is the case more often than not, the illustrations in the parts manual give you a better understanding of the goings-on than the workshop manual.
The lower shift lever (stubby one below the isolation bushing) has a small Ball shaped end, which engages into a plate with slots, refered to as the gate plate (how convenient) the gate plate is made of phorphor bronze and the slots become enlarged over time, allowing more play in the shift lever, when going into, and while in gear. This is an easily inspected, and changed if necessary, part. It only requires unbolting the shifter housingg on top of the box, with 4 bolts. Had my scanner not died, I would have been happy to email you the relevant drawings, but I can mail them if that would help.

 

[130CC]

Thanks for the help guys I have the workshop manual I just did not know what I was looking for, often the case with things that are unfamiliar. Is this some thing that is an important fix or will it continue to go for a while then freeze up as it were.
Adam

 

[TerryS]

Adam,
I don't think the R380 will engage 2 gears at once, like old boxes, so it's not likely you'll eventually damage anything. What will eventually happen is you'll find it more tricky to hit the gear you want, i.e. you'll be going from 1 to 2 but end up in 4, or (worse) going from 2 to 3, but end up in 1 again. anyway, you get the picture. It just requires less daydreaming when shifting.
Just out of curiosity, how many miles are on this gearbox? I have 80+k on my 110, and the box is still quite crisp.

 

[130CC]

It's on the 100k mark that's why I thaught it would be pretty simple problem. I do know that the first 28k or so were pretty tough on the truck as it was a mining vehicle before I got it and it took me quite a while to fix welds that had cracked around the tray and body mountings. Looked great in the sale yard but after the first drive on a rough dirt road the squeaks that came from around the place drove me up the wall. All that noise after a 1000k's made me want to sell the truck. Glad I didn't though LR's are just to much fun. :clap:
Thanks for the help