[SeattleRRC]

I am buying a 1990 RRC 3.9 V8 manual with a 3-4" lift (some hybrid of pro-comp and terrafirma) and plan to put steel wheels with 34 or 35" MTs on. Still not sure which size tire, and section width, 11.5 or 12.5 yet either. I plan to do wheels and tires together at the same time and have questions about wheel diameter, width and offset. Current owner has a set of 280/85/16 (35s) on OEM 3-spokes on it but I don't want the skinny look on the RRC.

I am looking at either 15" or 16" ARE-style black steelies, within which I can choose between an 8" or 10" width. I plan to get them with a significant offset to push the tires out from the body to reduce the amount of fender trimming I might have to do later. Right now I am thinking 16x8 wheels with an offset that would push the outer edge of the wheel out by around 2".

Looking for advice from those who know- what considerations besides cost of various tire sizes, should i be aware of? Is a 16x10 a bad idea? Does the extra 2" of wheel width translate to 2" more the wheel lip will protrude over the stock wheel?

Any experience, pics, etc would be appreciated.
Thanks!

 

[SeattleRRC]

Ok, bought the truck.
Need advice on the wheels now.
Anyone? Bueller?


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[roverandom]

It's tough to run tyres that size on a full bodied RRC and still have a half decent suspension system that works at speeds greater than 30mph. It can be done but it isn't cheap or easy. So I will just cover the basic issues your gonna run into first and leave stuff like steering, brakes and shocks aside for the moment and just rich upon the rudimentary problem of fitting a 35" tyre in the wheel well made for a 29" tyre.

16" tyres are easier to find than 15" these days and unless your thinking of massively wide tyres then a 8" wide is plenty. I had a set of 15"x10" steel wheels once and they were very, very heavy.

Your biggest problem in fitting the size you want will be the rear wheel well and rear door. If your wheel is moved out to clear the chassis under full compression that will put it seriously into the door and bodywork. To a lesser degree the front toe board will also foul the wheel. Just lifting the truck moves the axles closer to these contact points unless you stretch the wheelbase with longer arms etc. but that opens up a whole other can of worms.

Options include massive suspension lift/body lift or a combo of both or reworking the body, suspension and chassis to tub for the larger tyres while maintaining a decent amount of suspension travel. First option doesn't work very well second option does but is very involved and will require much time, effort and $$$.

Be aware that the steel wheels also weigh significantly more than the stock alloy units so it will compound the drawbacks of the already very heavy large tyre size you want to use so serious axle upgrades will be needed.

The stock wheels have a massive saftey bead allowing low PSI on trails without bead locks, saving weight again.

I ran a set of BFG KM's 35x12.50R15 on 10" wide steel rims on a 2" lift with wheel well cutting for a short while and didn't like the many compromises I would have to endure to get them to work properly. Ended up running 33" Duratrac's on stock wheels with spacers but I don't really need the extra tyre height of the 35" tyre myself ver much.

 

[SeattleRRC]

Thanks Matt, that is helpful.
Now that I have the truck I know a little more about the suspension. It has a 2" spring lift and nearly 3" body lift, which looks to be thoroughly done. I attached a pic of the truck.

With that in mind and your advice above, I am leaning towards 16x8 steel wheels with 4" of back spacing and 285/75/16 BFG AT KO2 tires. I plan for mild weekend off-roading with this truck, but not a whole lot of wheel stuffing. I want the wheels/tires to stick out about 1-2" from the lip of the wheel well and don't want to use spacers.

Reality check, does this sound about right? Will they rub during around town driving? I should comment, I really like the MTs pictured, but they don't meet the local requirements for winter tires here. We get a lot of packed snow/ice. The new KO2s do qualify for year round use. I will keep the MTs for occasional summer use. It also came with a set of 265/70/16 road-bias tires which look *terrible* on such a tall lift.
Any pics of this setup on a RRC?
Thanks!

 

[roverandom]

Nice looking classic!

A 33" tyre is pretty much the limit on a Classic if you want to retain the stock suspension design and stay safe on the road.

I run 285/75R16 GY Duratrac's in a Load Range E up here in the frozen North and they are about the best "do all" tyre you can buy in my opinion if your seasons are cooler. Just got back from Moab and they work great in the rock and sand too. Gravel doesn't bother them at all, they are quiet and decent wearing.

So 2" spring lift AND 3" of body lift? Wow that's pretty tall. I managed to get away with an old, tired 2" HD OME spring lift and LOTS of cutting but I didn't drop the bump stops or fit extended length shocks etc. It has stock up travel and works well but most guys don't want to cut up RRC's anymore.

Much will depend on the spring lift compression. The wider tyre/wheel combo will put the tyres into the door if the springs are compliant and bumpstops haven't been changed. Nothing wrong with longer bumpstops other than they reduce useful up travel.

I would get the tyres and wheel combo your thinking of and take it from there. Sounds like you have some room to play with so it may clear ok?




Mine. "She may not look like much kid, but she's got it where it counts!" Han Solo 1977.

 

[SeattleRRC]

Very helpful sir! Thank you.
Do you have a couple of shots of your truck setup on level ground so I can see the stance/trimming/tires?
You can post in this thread or PM me.
Thanks!

 

[SeattleRRC]

This truck has only a 2" spring lift and he's got 33x12.5x15 Cooper ATs. 15" triangle steelies. Looks good IMO. The right stance.

 

[p76rangie]

This truck has only a 2" spring lift and he's got 33x12.5x15 Cooper ATs. 15" triangle steelies. Looks good IMO. The right stance.

By the photo, the car must be locate "down under" here in Oz

 

[SeattleRRC]

Ha ha, actually the car is in Sweden.

 

[roverandom]

I don't have any "driveway" photo of my Mighty Range Rover. I'm the worst person ever for taking photographs so the only pictures around are one others have taken.