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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Steering Damper Replacement

I am going to be getting a new steering damper and alignment within the next few weeks. My 95' LWB still has the EAS - functioning fine. I was wondering if I should replace anything else ( shocks) while I get the damper installed? I still have the facotry shocks and was thinking of replacing them with Bilsteins. Didn't want to mess with the EAS until I have too, then will most likely convert to springs.
 

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I have Bilsteins on my '95 LWB and they work great. If the shocks are shot, replace em.. if they are fine, leave em alone. It will be cheaper to do it when you do the EAS, otherwise you have to pay extra labor now and then again when you do the EAS conversion.



Serg
 

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NJRover - May I ask

Why you are replacing the steering damper on your 95? What are the symptoms you get or do you visually see the shock leaking?
I have 95 LWB and I am thinking of replacing mine because it is loose over a bump and steers all over when driving.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
AdrianL said:
Why you are replacing the steering damper on your 95? What are the symptoms you get or do you visually see the shock leaking?
I have 95 LWB and I am thinking of replacing mine because it is loose over a bump and steers all over when driving.
Adrian - the symptoms aren't visible. When I'm driving on the highway and hit a bump, the steering wheel vibrates for a few seconds. Only happens at higher speeds, lower speeds not noticeable. I figured it was the damper?
 

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Maybe Tie Rods?

NJRover said:
Adrian - the symptoms aren't visible. When I'm driving on the highway and hit a bump, the steering wheel vibrates for a few seconds. Only happens at higher speeds, lower speeds not noticeable. I figured it was the damper?
You might want to check your tie rod ends. I had the exact same problem and replaced all four tie rods. When I got them off, I found three were frozen and one had a great deal of "play". With new tie rods it drives sweeeeet!
 

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Bilstein Damper

well, my tie rod ends are practically new but the other hand, steering damper is rusted thru and shot.
I went to Atlantic British and price was 99.95. So I went to Rovers North and price was 85.00. I have ordered thru Rovers North.
Will see what happens after the replacement.
Is it really hard to replace the steering damper? Do I need alignment after that? :drink1:
 

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AdrianL said:
well, my tie rod ends are practically new but the other hand, steering damper is rusted thru and shot.
I went to Atlantic British and price was 99.95. So I went to Rovers North and price was 85.00. I have ordered thru Rovers North.
Will see what happens after the replacement.
Is it really hard to replace the steering damper? Do I need alignment after that? :drink1:
It is usually a good idea to get an alignment after working on any part of the suspension, but in the case of the damper, you don't need to bother. As far as replacing, it is about as easy a job as you can get.

-Coach
 

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Steering Stabilizer:
The OEM Range Rover steering stabilizer (damper) costs $92 (NRC6474). Bilstein part number B36-0245 can be obtained for about $65. Another option is the Rancho 5403, 5405, or 5550. I found the latter at ExpressAutoparts.com for $28.

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This came from http://www.rangerovers.net/rrpartsv.htm

I ALWAYS check this site first.
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Yea, I've had my share of wobby steering after hitting bump. Most recent for my 1991 with 174K miles was panhard rod ends. Tie rod end once. Once I had two different tires on Michelin (very old style & newer style) caused the problem.

Get under steering components (engine off) and have someone like my 8 yrs old son turn steering wheel back/forth. Look for shifting geometry (parts not moving right). Could be preload on swivel housing or worn steering box (although back lash is adjustable).

Another way is to check is put bottle jack under axel. Raise one wheel off ground at a time. Grab tire with both hands and try latteral push/pull. You'll feel how loose tie rod ends and other steering links may be. Problem is you can't see what is the issue. Then tire iron under wheel, lift up. There should be smooth movement of the tire, no sudden shifting upper or lower. Usually this checks ball joint but you probably have swivel housing (ajust preload).
 

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Rovers.net info

Thanks for the info Glencof. I find some of the pricing on the rovers.net is outdated and no longer accurate. I have checked numerous sites for the exact models and found that OEM Woodhand damper is $77.00, OME(Old Man Emu) is $65.00 and Bilstein is $85.00 average. Maybe sometimes it might be cheaper at ebay or someone can find better pricing than above average.
 

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Replaced with Bilstein and perfect!!

I replaced my steering damper last night with Bilstein from Rovers North.
Took me half hour to replace.
After replacing, took it for a test drive and boy, what a difference. Steering is tight, no more bouncing and vibrating over bumps.
The original damper was totally shot. Case was ALL rusted out, inner piston lost all the gas/fluid and it was freely moving.
I highly recommend Bilstein as a replacement over OEM.
 

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steering dampner.. that was it.. lucky..

Lucky lucky.. could have been the panhards, tie rods, trailing arms.. not to forget all those little bushings.

When the front end loosens up again.. panhard

I did the steering dampner a couple of years ago and the front end loosened up in other areas.

Get ready this is only the beginning for ya. :buttrock:
 

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Looks good for now

PO maintained the vehicle pretty well and my mechanic checked to see if I needed any front sttering components and it looks good so far. Also, my car is covered under warranty, so replacement won't be an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OME Damper w/ shipping $78 - Atlantic British

Just put on an Old Man Emu damper (15 minutes of labor) and got an alignment done. Considerable improvement - no more steering wheel vibrations over bumps at high speeds. The OME was recommended to me over the Bilstein. So far, so good.....
 
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