Steering Stabilizer:
The OEM Range Rover steering stabilizer (damper) costs $92 (NRC6474). Bilstein part number B36-0245 can be obtained for about $65. Another option is the Rancho 5403, 5405, or 5550. I found the latter at ExpressAutoparts.com for $28.
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This came from http://www.rangerovers.net/rrpartsv.htm
I ALWAYS check this site first.
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Yea, I've had my share of wobby steering after hitting bump. Most recent for my 1991 with 174K miles was panhard rod ends. Tie rod end once. Once I had two different tires on Michelin (very old style & newer style) caused the problem.
Get under steering components (engine off) and have someone like my 8 yrs old son turn steering wheel back/forth. Look for shifting geometry (parts not moving right). Could be preload on swivel housing or worn steering box (although back lash is adjustable).
Another way is to check is put bottle jack under axel. Raise one wheel off ground at a time. Grab tire with both hands and try latteral push/pull. You'll feel how loose tie rod ends and other steering links may be. Problem is you can't see what is the issue. Then tire iron under wheel, lift up. There should be smooth movement of the tire, no sudden shifting upper or lower. Usually this checks ball joint but you probably have swivel housing (ajust preload).
The OEM Range Rover steering stabilizer (damper) costs $92 (NRC6474). Bilstein part number B36-0245 can be obtained for about $65. Another option is the Rancho 5403, 5405, or 5550. I found the latter at ExpressAutoparts.com for $28.
============
This came from http://www.rangerovers.net/rrpartsv.htm
I ALWAYS check this site first.
============
Yea, I've had my share of wobby steering after hitting bump. Most recent for my 1991 with 174K miles was panhard rod ends. Tie rod end once. Once I had two different tires on Michelin (very old style & newer style) caused the problem.
Get under steering components (engine off) and have someone like my 8 yrs old son turn steering wheel back/forth. Look for shifting geometry (parts not moving right). Could be preload on swivel housing or worn steering box (although back lash is adjustable).
Another way is to check is put bottle jack under axel. Raise one wheel off ground at a time. Grab tire with both hands and try latteral push/pull. You'll feel how loose tie rod ends and other steering links may be. Problem is you can't see what is the issue. Then tire iron under wheel, lift up. There should be smooth movement of the tire, no sudden shifting upper or lower. Usually this checks ball joint but you probably have swivel housing (ajust preload).
