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Haynes and others suggest that replacing the drop arm ball joint is a job for the dealer. Is it really so difficult? Is the spring of such a high tension that it will explode as soon as you release the circlip?

Wondered about disconnecting the steering arm, lowering the vehicle so that the underside of the joint came down to just rest on a block and a suitable socket, removing the circip and then jacking the vehicle off the top of it. Where is the flaw in the cunning plan? Dealer will charge £50 per hour so I'd prefer to remain out of their clutches!
 

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Piece off piss

Rubbish, I did one on my Range rover ( same as Discos ) be it I had the steering box out at the time for something else. The only reason I can see it a problem is if the UK models are differant to the USA models.
Have a look at this web site it might help.http://www.rangerovers.net/
 

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you can do the job youreself if you have a big enough vice to put the droparm/balljoint and some bits of bar and tube in .

the first thing you may have probs with is removal of the nut holding the drop arm in place, after youve released the tabs from lockwasher .
some nuts i have found to be so tight i have to heat them up in order to remove them and others have almost come undone themselves , but whichever yours is it requires you have a big enough socket to undo it , usually from a 3/4" drive set along with a knuckle bar .

the spring holding the ball joint in place isnt too tight but it does require pressure in order to hold the retaining plate in place while you remove/install the circlip .

replacement of the joint is easy enough .

hold drop arm in a vice .

first you take off the rubber gaiter from the top of balljoint .

find piece of steel/ali tube , long enough that will fit over the top of balljoint stub & lip and sit flat against drop arm face one end and vice jaws other end .

find small piece of solid bar [ like 20mm dia]about 1" long that is smaller than inner diameter of circlip .

place the drop arm /balljoint in vice with the tube one side of balljoint and the bar on the circlip side so as to press the retaining plate down which is under the circlip , you intend to hold this in place under a little tension with the vice so that you can get a pair of circlip pliers and remove the circlip .

once circlip is out you can undo vice carefully , the retaining plate then should come out along with a short flat coiled spring and plate underneath it .

put drop arm in vice , gently tap out the threaded stub/ ball from the end of drop arm , it should almost fall out .

next is removal of the inner seat in the end of drop arm .
be very carefull not to damage the lip area which holds the gaiter in place , this is a fragile area .

if you look down inside top of the hole from the lip side youll see a small ledge about 1/4" down where the inner pressed in seat is pressed against , there is only perhaps 1mm of this edge showing and you need to tap the seat out of the hole so you can reinstall new seat supplied in the droparm kit .

i use a piece of ali bar that just fits snug in the hole , you can then knock the inner seat out using just a mallet whilst holding the drop arm tightly in a vice .

then all you do is fit new inner balljoint seat by tapping it in place using mallet and suitable bar/drift .

then with droparm upside down in vice gently place the new balljoint stub in place , with a little grease to lube it , place inner plate then spring on top and then retainer plate[ greased] .

put the assembly in vice so that you have the bit of tube you used firstly and the bit of bar on top of retaining plate alll in place , then whole assembly is held in vice and the retaining plate pressed down sufficiently enough for you to install the circlip .

you may have to have the circlip placed loose resting over the bar before assembly because it may not pass over the solid bar when its all assembled in vice in order to install the circlip .

once the circlip is in place give it a tap with screwdriver to make sure the clip is nicely out into the groove .


put some grease in the rubber gaiter and fit to top lipped part of drop arm .

check that balljoint stub will move ok , it should be able to be moved by hand .

some kits have a grease nipple that needs screwing in the lower retaining plate and some kits dont .

you can do the drop arm balljoint kit replacement "whilst on vehicle" sometimes if you dare but usually you come up against problems removing the inner seat or pressing the retaining plate in in order to fit cirlip .

cheers
ian
 

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tip

Buy a genuine L/rover one I bought a cheap one and it did'nt last for till the next MOT (12 months) before needing replacement.
Cheers Onz

worms said:
Haynes and others suggest that replacing the drop arm ball joint is a job for the dealer. Is it really so difficult? Is the spring of such a high tension that it will explode as soon as you release the circlip?

Wondered about disconnecting the steering arm, lowering the vehicle so that the underside of the joint came down to just rest on a block and a suitable socket, removing the circip and then jacking the vehicle off the top of it. Where is the flaw in the cunning plan? Dealer will charge £50 per hour so I'd prefer to remain out of their clutches!
 

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Rewriting the manual.

worms said:
Thanks for all the advice! You guys ought to rewrite the Manual!
We probably could rewrite the manual except half of it would be wrong,half would be full of arguements and the other half would be people telling me there should only be 2 halfs in a manual. :D
 
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