HOWZ'T GUYS, I'M NEEDING HELP TO FIND OUT WHY MY STEERING WHEEL VIBRATES SO BADLY WHEN I GO OVER CORRUGATIONS ON THE ROAD OR A BADLY SURFACED ROAD? I BROUGHT THE PROBLEM TO THE ATTENTION OF LAND ROVER AND THEY SAID THAT THERE WAS BACK LASH FROM THE FRONT DIFF. SO THEY REPLACED THE WHOLE DIFF AND THE HALF SHAFTS, AND WHACKED ME WITH A HUGE BILL( AS THEY DO), AND GUESS WHAT? THE VIBATIONS ARE STILL THERE!! SOMETIMES IT'S SO BAD THAT I ALMOST CAN'T CONTROL THE CAR. I DRIVE A 2000 LANDROVER 90 2.8, WITH 100000KM ON THE CLOCK. COULD IT BE THE STEERING DAMPNER? I DON'T HAVE A CLUE. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREAT!!!! :dunno:
Steering Vibration
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I had vibrations that sound similar to the ones you have. I replaced the steering dampener for a larger unit and also the bushes and bolts in the panhard rod( bar that holds the axel in place) these were worn. I am running larger tires on my truck so this does cause problems in this area.
Adam
Adam
I'd start with a new steering dampener. BTW, when they changed out your diff and axles did they give them back to you? Probably not? It may not be too late, but I'd get them back as you can always keep them as spares, and it prevents them from re-using them in some other poor unfortunates' rig. Don't laugh, anyone who would convince you to change out your diff & axles, are capable of doing anything.
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1,837 Posts
Hmmm. 1st check your drive shaft. Also, sounds simplistic but perhaps balance tires ? Either problem could 'transmit' vibrations thru your steering wheel. Replacing the steering damper, as mentioned previously, is always a good idea. The OME dampers are excellent.
Yeah, I think Terry is right here, either swivel preload, or if it were a series truck, I'd say check the drop arm off of the steering relay...do Defenders have such a setup.
The other thing you could do is to jack the truck up and rest it on stands to take the tension off of the steering components. Get under there and see what moves too easily...
Bogatyr
The other thing you could do is to jack the truck up and rest it on stands to take the tension off of the steering components. Get under there and see what moves too easily...
Bogatyr
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3,225 Posts
Hi Dave,
The swivel preload is the amount of pressure the swivel pins are pressing on the swivel ball. There are shims which are added or removed, beneath the swivel pins. The process requires disconnecting ball joints from the steering arms at each swivel ball, and with a spring scale measure the amount of tension required to move the ball. If it moves too freely, then the top pin is removed and a single shim is removed, replace the pin and remeasure. If more shim removal is required, it may be necessary to remove one or more from the bottom pin also, so that you balance the amount removed between top and bottom pins, until the ball resists movement.
The swivel pins fit into tapered sockets recessed into the swivel ball, and if the tension is insufficient, than the pin becomes loose, in the tapered socket, allowing sideways motion (and vibration) It is necessary that you have a workshop manual in order to perform this procedure, as it gives tension amounts and location to attach the spring scale.
It's a time consuming procedure, about an hour or more per side, but fortunately, not one which is done often (60,000 miles)
Before you begin to make your measurements, the pins should be inspected for uneven wear, as both they and their sockets can wear out if run too loose, too long.
Hope this helps.
The swivel preload is the amount of pressure the swivel pins are pressing on the swivel ball. There are shims which are added or removed, beneath the swivel pins. The process requires disconnecting ball joints from the steering arms at each swivel ball, and with a spring scale measure the amount of tension required to move the ball. If it moves too freely, then the top pin is removed and a single shim is removed, replace the pin and remeasure. If more shim removal is required, it may be necessary to remove one or more from the bottom pin also, so that you balance the amount removed between top and bottom pins, until the ball resists movement.
The swivel pins fit into tapered sockets recessed into the swivel ball, and if the tension is insufficient, than the pin becomes loose, in the tapered socket, allowing sideways motion (and vibration) It is necessary that you have a workshop manual in order to perform this procedure, as it gives tension amounts and location to attach the spring scale.
It's a time consuming procedure, about an hour or more per side, but fortunately, not one which is done often (60,000 miles)
Before you begin to make your measurements, the pins should be inspected for uneven wear, as both they and their sockets can wear out if run too loose, too long.
Hope this helps.
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