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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm in South America, helping a friend with a 1997 manual transmission 3.9L GEMS V8 Discovery 1 with a distributor and Standard Evaporative Loss System (round canister).

It is cranking, but will not start. It has had an aftermarket alarm installed (most likely the issue). Mechanics have changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, throttle position sensor and same issue. The spark plugs were noted to be wet by mechanic, probably from so much cranking with no start they flooded spark plugs.

Here is what I've checked:
1. Has Spark - used an inline spark tester in-between several of the spark plugs and spark plug wires.
2. Has Fuel Pressure - I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to check between 32-34 PSI at key position 2, but I unscrewed the fuel line and fuel comes out with great pressure when key is in Position 2.
3. Has 12V at coil - When key is in Position 2, have 12V at BOTH terminals of the ignition coil. I thought the negative side was supposed to not have 12V - where fuel injectors and magnetic pickup plug in.
4. Fuses OK - All Fuses in the engine bay and underneath the steering wheel are OK.
5. Switched out starter motor with another working one, no change.
6. Aftermarket alarm relocated the red security light, it STAYS ON no matter what. When locking the doors the horn doesn't honk. I looked under the glove box passenger side and don't see the green ECU box to do the black/orange bypass wire trick.
7. Tried the 1 5 1 5 EKA key turning method, no luck.
8. The Check Engine Light doesn't turn on with key in Position 2.

Pending:
1. My next step is to remove the A/C controls and check for the infamous spider box.
2. Also will remove the fuel injectors and see if they are spraying.
3. Under the glove box I see what I think is the Multi-Function Relay, but I also see 2 dangling relays, look like some aftermarket add-on. But I hear fuel pump and have fuel pressure, so I've ruled out issues with Multi-Function Relay.

I'd appreciate any feedback, here in South America it is very difficult to get someone to work on these cars, much less anyone knowledgeable.
 

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Most often, aftermarket alarms use a starter interrupt. This will prevent crank. It would require a great deal of invasive wiring and critical thinking to use the aftermarket immobilizer on a different vehicle system. While there very well may be a defunct aftermarket alarm, my first guess wouldn’t be that it’s the cause of your no-start scenario.

can you determine what the dangling aftermarket relays are wired to/from?

also, before fully ruling out the aftermarket alarm, was it (irresponsibly on a manual) equipped with a remote starter? I have seen poor connections to the tachometer lead cause failure. While your lack of CEL on IGN2 may indicate a computer initialization fault, it may also indicate monkey business with the wiring behind the cluster.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Most often, aftermarket alarms use a starter interrupt. This will prevent crank. It would require a great deal of invasive wiring and critical thinking to use the aftermarket immobilizer on a different vehicle system. While there very well may be a defunct aftermarket alarm, my first guess wouldn’t be that it’s the cause of your no-start scenario.

can you determine what the dangling aftermarket relays are wired to/from?

also, before fully ruling out the aftermarket alarm, was it (irresponsibly on a manual) equipped with a remote starter? I have seen poor connections to the tachometer lead cause failure. While your lack of CEL on IGN2 may indicate a computer initialization fault, it may also indicate monkey business with the wiring behind the cluster.
You know I do believe my friend had the remote start installed with the alarm. The tachometer lead would be located behind the instrument cluster or in the steering column? I'll also follow the aftermarket relays. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
UPDATE:
I hadn't pulled the spark plugs because I used an in-line spark tester. The spark plugs were fouled and only a few were actually giving spark when grounding out on manifold. I tested each new spark plug with the fuel pump and injectors fuse PULLED, and was getting a nice blue spark from each new plug. Installed all the new plugs, re-installed the fuses and it ran on the first try. Now I need to see WHY the engine was flooding, here are my ideas:

1. Sitting too long, not running enough time when turning on.
2. Bad coolant temperature sensor.
3. Bad oxygen sensor.

How do I check each of these things?

Thanks again
 
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