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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '94 D1 with 148,000 miles on it. i just bought it about 1 month ago and have dome some tune-up work on it. Last week it started having a strange misfire problem, i thought it was just the injectors which needed replaced anyway. I changed the injectors this weekend but am still having a problem. It will start instantly when it first cranks over and seems to idle fine for a while. I have about a 10 minute drive out a side road before i hit the main highway. I'm running about 25mph max until I hit the main road, if I have to sit at the intersection for more than a few seconds it starts running rough. When I pull out on the road it feels like I'm only running on 5-6 cylinders, very rough, coughing shudders until I go a little ways to about 40mph... Then it is like someone throws a switch and throws me back into the seat and really takes off.. If I have to stop again the same thing will happen?? So far the work I have done is this: changed plugs (Autolite platnium), wires, rotor button, distributor cap, all 8 injectors, ran half a can of Seafoam thru it, and cleaned the stepper motor. I have a bad exhaust leak in the Y pipe i need to get fixed soon, but would like to diagnose this problem first. I'm wondering about the coil or module?? Really just don't know what to do next?????????

Martin
 

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Martn,
Does it feel like a gas or electrical stutter?
Just wondering about your fuel pump or its relay as well as the fuel filter that is known for causing problems.
Mike J.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Check Engine light came on this morning. I'm going to switch back to the Champion plugs and change the fuel filter tonight. I'm also ordering a LR Cap and rotor to replace the ones I put on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked the code display and it gave me: 45

Code 45 - Lambda sensor B - right bank
If one of these fault codes (#44 or #45) is displayed check the wiring to that particular lambda sensor. In addition this fault will be displayed if the vehicle has a condition which causes it to run very lean or very rich on one side (example - a vacuum leak or a bad injector). This code often appears in conjunction with the misfire codes in cases of bad ignition misfire (cross-firing plug wires)
If both codes are displayed, the voltage supply to the heater coils of the sensors must be checked. Check for 12V appearing on the O2 signal lead, and check the heater circuit for shorts.

I'm wondering if this could have to do with the exhaust leak?? The leak/damaged pipe is on the same bank as this code. One leak is in front of the cat, the second is on back near the Y pipe flange...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I have had the exhaust leak fixed, changed back to Champion plugs. It has not changed anything, still has a bad mis/stutter.. at times. I'm going to change back to OEM cap and rotor and will be replacing the coil soon also, alomg with the fuel filter.. This is getting very frustrating... Any recommendations on a coil? OEM or aftermarket??

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well to update this now... I have changed back to a new OEM cap and rotor button, the plug wires are Autolite premium wires, I also changed the coil to a MSD Blaster High vibration coil.. still no change!!!!! I have discovered that when it does this, if I let off the throttle for a second it will correct itself, sometimes I must do this once or twice, maybe 3 times before it will "reset" itself??? I'm just not certain where to go next?? A sensor perhaps... but which one?? I hate to just go and spend the big bucks replacing sensors if that is not the problem....

Martin
 

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its not cheap but you may have an ignition module breaking down, if I remember right the 94's should have one. also make sure the three way orifice is clean it is the plastic or metal threeway "t" near the throttle body. Have seen them plugged up before.
 

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Sounds like it could be fuel pressure related. I would check fuel prssure at the rail (your 94 might have the test port at the fuel rail) should read somewhere in the 30's at idle. Also check to see that it holds pressure when you shut the truck off. Fuel pressure guages are pretty cheap these days, its worth a check.

BTW that code 45 could be telling you that its running too lean, even more of a reason to check fuel pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have checked the fuel pressure at idle and it was 35. I will be rechecking it this weekend if possible, and doing some further tests. I am planning on changing the fuel filter also.

Martin
 
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