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Welcome dude! :wave: You forgot to add buy stock in a gas company. 
By the way...why do you want 35's? Just wondering what your reasoning was for that. Don't get me wrong, if you can do 35's, it will look killer but what type of driving do you plan on doing? Just mall crawling? Do it! Offroading in mud and rocks? You will need to upgrade your gearing ratios in your diffs to power those 35's. Then you will have to upgrade your axles b/c you will keep snapping them - go to www.expeditionexchange.com and see how much Bill's GBR axles will cost you - you might change your mind and go no bigger than 33's or 265's.
By the way...why do you want 35's? Just wondering what your reasoning was for that. Don't get me wrong, if you can do 35's, it will look killer but what type of driving do you plan on doing? Just mall crawling? Do it! Offroading in mud and rocks? You will need to upgrade your gearing ratios in your diffs to power those 35's. Then you will have to upgrade your axles b/c you will keep snapping them - go to www.expeditionexchange.com and see how much Bill's GBR axles will cost you - you might change your mind and go no bigger than 33's or 265's.
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10,167 Posts
if you run 31 or 33 you will be fine with the current gears...Plus you won't have to trim as much...
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/735661
This is a link to my RRC site, you don't need a lot of lift or massive tires to run a lot of trails...I currently run 31 x 10.50.... A lot of my wheeling was done on michelin street tires..the equivilant of 28"... good luck man!
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/735661
This is a link to my RRC site, you don't need a lot of lift or massive tires to run a lot of trails...I currently run 31 x 10.50.... A lot of my wheeling was done on michelin street tires..the equivilant of 28"... good luck man!
I have the 3" RTE kit with 7100's. I already have u joints in the rear d/s but I had to buy a new front double cardon d/s. It was 400 from Bill at GBR. I also didn't see brake lines on your list.
To get 35's, I'd do it right the first time and go with the 5" kit. Some fender trimming will be necessary but its worth it to keep your cog a little lower than with the spacers and b/l.
I'm probably going to with the 5" kit next year, as I want the 35's too. Gears and axles are, IMO, a big must have even for a dd. Mileage and power will suck without them. Start saving some coin cause it's gonna get expensive.
To get 35's, I'd do it right the first time and go with the 5" kit. Some fender trimming will be necessary but its worth it to keep your cog a little lower than with the spacers and b/l.
I'm probably going to with the 5" kit next year, as I want the 35's too. Gears and axles are, IMO, a big must have even for a dd. Mileage and power will suck without them. Start saving some coin cause it's gonna get expensive.
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1,019 Posts
to be honest i dont quite know with these motors. personally, I have a K&N filter and was thinking of upgrading my ignition system, and then after school and when i have some good cash flow i think it would be cool to drop in a small block chevy. theres and austrailian company that has a kit for this, and i hear it drops in quite nicely.Disco 1 said:
Nah, he has CDL. If he learns how to drive it right, he should be just fine. IMHO, it is better to have tread on the ground due to a good suspension than to have lockers. Yeah, lockers are cool and I will eventually get them but to me, they take some of the fun/skill or driving our rovers.1st rover said:
Yes you can but I say just take them off completely. I did and it is not that noticable. But I do have an OME suspension. I would not recommend it with a stock set up.Bene said:
On second thought...if you drive windy roads, keep them on. I don't want to be responsible for any accident you may have with them off.
In the final analysis, go look on EE for the disconnects.
If you go with a 5 inch lift, you will probably need to adjust your castor on the front axle to make up for the drop. You'll either need redrilled swivel housings or castor corrected radius arms. Otherwise the steering geometry will be off. I'm not sure if the steering will need a drop pitman arm too to correct for bump steer. imho, a flexy suspension will win out over an extereme lift any day. Who needs lockers when you can keep all 4 wheels on the ground. Good tire selection and articulation would be the best approach. Its better to keep it on the smaller side if you don't want to be breaking stuff. Big tires put an awful lot of stress on the engine/trans/xfer case/axles and brakes.
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1,837 Posts
Read this before building Disco death-trap !!
Disco_1:
I would STRONGLY urge you not to put a 2" body lift upon a 5" suspension lift. This will be 7" of total lift and will make your Disco a death trap. RTE will tell you the same thing when you call them. Overkill, and no utility to this set-up.
What size tires are you looking to run? Even with a 5" lift, you'll have to do some trimming of the DI fenders and rear quarter panels anyway. Trimming is almost always the way to go vs. body lift. I don't even think Steve would sell you a 5" suspension lift with a 2" body lift.
Regarding your question of what you'll need, besides driveshafts as was previously mentioned, you'll need lower gearing and heavy duty axles. Building up your Disco will cost some dough, which is why it's typically done in stages. But if you are going to put 35's + on, which you probably will with a 5" lift, your stock DI axles aren't up for the task. Great Basin Rovers is probably you best bet for HD axles, as well as the gears and lockers (if you are getting the locked up while the diff is apart). If you are looking to go extreme, you may also want to talk to Keith at Rover Tracks who specializes in super-heavy-duty axles including Toyota and Dana 60 swaps. With tires that big, you'll also want to upgrate your stock drag link & tie rod. Additionally, you'll need some aftermarket wheels with less back-spacing (more off-set) to run tires that large. And you'll need larger bump-stops which RTE will sell you along w/ the lift. You'll also want upgraded rear trailing arms (A-arms are part of an indep. suspension system) with the set-up you are describing, I would suggest RTEs heim-jointed, angled trailing arms. Also talk to RTE about front radius arms or you'll have articulation imbalance and binding. You will also need extended brake & ABS lines.
Finally, if you don't already have adequate armor, you'll need it with the direction your headed. You are going to want push your gear to the limit (unless you are building a show truck) which means a low-profile front bumper, rock sliders, and a rear bumper,,,all with solid recovery points and skid plates.
Disco_1:
I would STRONGLY urge you not to put a 2" body lift upon a 5" suspension lift. This will be 7" of total lift and will make your Disco a death trap. RTE will tell you the same thing when you call them. Overkill, and no utility to this set-up.
What size tires are you looking to run? Even with a 5" lift, you'll have to do some trimming of the DI fenders and rear quarter panels anyway. Trimming is almost always the way to go vs. body lift. I don't even think Steve would sell you a 5" suspension lift with a 2" body lift.
Regarding your question of what you'll need, besides driveshafts as was previously mentioned, you'll need lower gearing and heavy duty axles. Building up your Disco will cost some dough, which is why it's typically done in stages. But if you are going to put 35's + on, which you probably will with a 5" lift, your stock DI axles aren't up for the task. Great Basin Rovers is probably you best bet for HD axles, as well as the gears and lockers (if you are getting the locked up while the diff is apart). If you are looking to go extreme, you may also want to talk to Keith at Rover Tracks who specializes in super-heavy-duty axles including Toyota and Dana 60 swaps. With tires that big, you'll also want to upgrate your stock drag link & tie rod. Additionally, you'll need some aftermarket wheels with less back-spacing (more off-set) to run tires that large. And you'll need larger bump-stops which RTE will sell you along w/ the lift. You'll also want upgraded rear trailing arms (A-arms are part of an indep. suspension system) with the set-up you are describing, I would suggest RTEs heim-jointed, angled trailing arms. Also talk to RTE about front radius arms or you'll have articulation imbalance and binding. You will also need extended brake & ABS lines.
Finally, if you don't already have adequate armor, you'll need it with the direction your headed. You are going to want push your gear to the limit (unless you are building a show truck) which means a low-profile front bumper, rock sliders, and a rear bumper,,,all with solid recovery points and skid plates.
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