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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1999 Land Rover Discovery II.

The car is automatically / intermittently revving: up, down, up, down, up, down, up, down,

This happens after being driven for 5-10 minutes. The sound is getting worse. It is intermittent like clockwork.

This occurred ONE WEEK AFTER BEING IN THE SHOP. The shop replaced the following things on the car:

1) Throttle body defroster gasket
2) Expansion Tank return lines
3) Expansion Tank hose
4) Valve Cover Gaskets
5) Spark Plugs and Wires

They said they transfer case may require further attention.


I'm hoping they botched this and there is not something new wrong with the car. The noise is getting worse and sounds serious. Please advise what could be wrong???

I'm sending them emails for one week and they are not responding...

Help!
 

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'03 Disco SE
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Does the rev bounce occur while driving or only while in idle? What is the high and low point of the rpm when it is doing this? Are there any check engine lights on?

Could be your throttle position sensor, your idle air control valve, or a loose vacuum line. A careless mechanic could have easily forgotten to plug in a sensor or pinched a wire or hose when reinstalling the throttle body. Take it back to the shop and have them do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Does the rev bounce occur while driving or only while in idle? What is the high and low point of the rpm when it is doing this? Are there any check engine lights on?

Could be your throttle position sensor, your idle air control valve, or a loose vacuum line. A careless mechanic could have easily forgotten to plug in a sensor or pinched a wire or hose when reinstalling the throttle body. Take it back to the shop and have them do it.

Thank you for responding!

YES it's a REV BOUNCE and it only occurs while idle.

The shop won't answer my emails.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does the rev bounce occur while driving or only while in idle? What is the high and low point of the rpm when it is doing this? Are there any check engine lights on?

Could be your throttle position sensor, your idle air control valve, or a loose vacuum line. A careless mechanic could have easily forgotten to plug in a sensor or pinched a wire or hose when reinstalling the throttle body. Take it back to the shop and have them do it.
Bosnian - are you a mechanic?

They replaced the throttle body hose.
 

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Why did you take it to a shop, see what happens.
Have you stood out next to the truck with the hood up, see anything?
Since they worked on the t/body, I would take it back to them and have them fix it.
What is supposed to be wrong with your t/case?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Why did you take it to a shop, see what happens.
Have you stood out next to the truck with the hood up, see anything?
Since they worked on the t/body, I would take it back to them and have them fix it.
What is supposed to be wrong with your t/case?

They are not answering my emails or calls.

I was concerned because the transfer case was leaking. They told me I don't need to replace it. But the shop report checked the "may need further attention" box.

Right now I'm concerned about this noise because it's getting worse.
 

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How did you pay for this work? If they won't answer your calls and you paid with a credit card, then call your banks card division and stop payment on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How did you pay for this work? If they won't answer your calls and you paid with a credit card, then call your banks card division and stop payment on them.
Debit card. :(

Money is already gone.

Normally they are really good. No idea why this sudden quiet behavior.
 

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Too Bad
Does your tach go up and down with the noise?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Then it is not you idle going up and down, there is something else wrong.
If you want help with this, send me your number and lets talk.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
More issues happening !!!

To Re-CAP:

I Dumped $1000.00 at the shop. Right away the car is rev bouncing!!!

NOW THE THESE THINGS ARE HAPPENING !!!

1) DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY THE SPEEDOMETER JUMPS FROM 75 MPH TO 0 !!!!

2) AC MAKING BIZZARE NOISES !!!!!!!

3) SRS LIGHT POPS ON! !

4) EXTRA NOISE COMING FROM ENGINE WITH REVVING BOUNCE !!!


So now we have FOUR more things wrong AFTER leaving the shop all going wrong!!!

MAN this is such bullshit. I'm self employed. I have a business to run. I don't have time to fix it that's why I take to the shop! When I dump $1000.00 I don't expect it to come out with more problems.

The shop does not answer my emails and when I finally call them they won't admit obvious coincidence and tell me I "may need additional work" and to bring it in and "if we find anything wrong we will have to quote you a price to fix it". NOTHING was wrong until it got back from the shop! !

Tow truck: $130.00
Taxi $90.00
Diagnosis: $100.00

TOTAL: $320.00


This is complete bullshit fan. Can anyone recommend another shop or mechanic in the greater Los Angeles area besides British Car Service in Inglewood (too expensive). My regular private mechanic moved and I don't trust anyone on Craiglist. All I want to do is buy the NEW PARTS MYSELF and PAY SOMEONE TO INSTALL THEM / FIX THE CAR.

I told this shop to use PEAK COOLANT with distilled water., They refuse. So much for the customer. I said ok if you refuse there is nothing I can do but DO NOT USE ORANGE DEX. Then I emailed them a study that proves that Orange Dex results in blown headgaskets. So they said ok we will reuse the coolant. Instead they refill it with ORANGE DEX!


All of these things are going wrong with my car now. They are not responding my emails. My policy is that when a car leaves the shop with new problems never use that shop again. Problem is I have a Rover.

I need someone to work on this car in the Los Angeles area.

In the meatime does anyone know why I'm having all these issues with the car happen at once???
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Major weird issues happening with car.

1) Pick up at shop and the AC takes 1-2 minutes to come on after pressing the button
2) Once the car warms up the engine/gauge starts revving up and down
3) Speedometer jumps from 0 to speed limit. Back and forth while driving.
4) SRS light popped on
5) AC making gurgling noises
6) ACE corning light (?) light coming on and off (light under oil light).
 

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Sounds like you are having a rough go with this one. Hard to pinpoint what may be the cause that would happen and have effect on all these things. Could even be voltage related?I would say you really need to find someone you can trust if you are not able to deal with things yourself.
It may be even harder to find a "good" shop that will install your supplied parts from the get go!
From a shop perspective there can be many complications with client supplied parts,
What about warranty?
What if they are incorrect?
As a business they expect to make margins on both parts and labour to cover overhead, administration and labour costs. If you want to buy your own parts you are basically taking food off their table.
Something a " good " shop may do for a " good " client but not for every Tom, Dick and Harry that walks in their door.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sounds like you are having a rough go with this one. Hard to pinpoint what may be the cause that would happen and have effect on all these things. Could even be voltage related?I would say you really need to find someone you can trust if you are not able to deal with things yourself.
It may be even harder to find a "good" shop that will install your supplied parts from the get go!
From a shop perspective there can be many complications with client supplied parts,
What about warranty?
What if they are incorrect?
As a business they expect to make margins on both parts and labour to cover overhead, administration and labour costs. If you want to buy your own parts you are basically taking food off their table.
Something a " good " shop may do for a " good " client but not for every Tom, Dick and Harry that walks in their door.

Pal

I'm hardly taking "food off their table" for what amounts to a couple hours work (at most) at a $1000.00 bill. They are taking food of MY table.

It's pretty audacious for a mechanic to refuse to use customer supplied parts or follow the customers instructions. A shop insists on using their own parts for one reason only - so they can make money by installing used parts at new part prices which are then prone failing quicker. All shops claim the parts are "new factory parts" but for most people it's pretty much impossible to tell if they are new or used after they are already installed.

They refused to follow my instructions and use:

1) Magnacor wires
2) BOSCH platinum 4 plugs
3) PEAK coolant
4) Lucas Lube.

Instead they used:

1) Generic Drab Colored Wires
2) Cheap Champion Spark Plugs
3) Orange Dex
4) Generic Lube


I had no choice but to tolerate it because I live my life like the White Rabbit i.e. I'm always late/running behind on something because I run a company.

So I don't have allot of time. That's why I pay a mechanic. So when I drop $1000.00 and the car comes out with more problems they are eating up my time and my money for bullshit and not accepting responsibility for their mistakes.

I run a business and hold myself to a very high standard. Mistakes are made. Everyone makes mistakes. Not only to I live up to my mistakes I go out of my way to admit my mistakes and reimburse the client if one was made - even if it costs me money and even though I'm in 100X more of a position than a mechanic to make things up and charge clients for my mistakes/oversights because the clients don't have a clue But I don't do that because it's dishonest and unethical.
 

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I need to verify who's truck this is, your's or the shop of idiots? Why did you even pay them after they did not follow your directions?
I do'n even know where to point you at this time.
 

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Pal

I'm hardly taking "food off their table" for what amounts to a couple hours work (at most) at a $1000.00 bill. They are taking food of MY table.

It's pretty audacious for a mechanic to refuse to use customer supplied parts or follow the customers instructions. A shop insists on using their own parts for one reason only - so they can make money by installing used parts at new part prices which are then prone failing quicker. All shops claim the parts are "new factory parts" but for most people it's pretty much impossible to tell if they are new or used after they are already installed.

They refused to follow my instructions and use:

1) Magnacor wires
2) BOSCH platinum 4 plugs
3) PEAK coolant
4) Lucas Lube.

Instead they used:

1) Generic Drab Colored Wires
2) Cheap Champion Spark Plugs
3) Orange Dex
4) Generic Lube


I had no choice but to tolerate it because I live my life like the White Rabbit i.e. I'm always late/running behind on something because I run a company.

So I don't have allot of time. That's why I pay a mechanic. So when I drop $1000.00 and the car comes out with more problems they are eating up my time and my money for bullshit and not accepting responsibility for their mistakes.

I run a business and hold myself to a very high standard. Mistakes are made. Everyone makes mistakes. Not only to I live up to my mistakes I go out of my way to admit my mistakes and reimburse the client if one was made - even if it costs me money and even though I'm in 100X more of a position than a mechanic to make things up and charge clients for my mistakes/oversights because the clients don't have a clue But I don't do that because it's dishonest and unethical.
buddy!
If you run a business then you should know better than anyone how to protect yourself and to not accept and pay for improper service.
I was not and am not going to advise you on what is already done. That boat has sailed!
Calling all shops dishonest and inept is unrealistic. Is that how you run your business - no , I assume.
If you are unable to do the required repairs and diagnostics - for whatever reason! Then you had better find (as I originally wrote) a " good:
Don't expect the good shop,to be cheap!
Don't expect them to install your parts!
Someone needs to fix this vehicle - it's your choice -make it a good one or ? Park it?
:wave:
 

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If you consider spending $1K on Land Rover expensive, you should move toward another vehicle. They are pretty expensive to maintain, especially if you do not do the work yourself.
 
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