[wlindsey]

2006 LR3, 115k miles

This morning, my LR3, upon startup made a terrible noise that sounded like it was coming from the air compressor area. Then it went into suspension fault mode, normal height only.

I'm assuming that the air compressor is toast. Does this sound correct given the noise? I've read about the dryer bead replacement but I figure that with the noise it's probably too late to save this thing. Agree?

My main question, is that if I do order a replacement air compressor, which one do I order and any suggestions from where. I've found Hitachi, does the LR023964 part number just replace the LR015303? I've also seen the Arnott compressor as well.

I appreciate any advice regarding this matter. I've watched the lucky8 youtube vid and read some forum stuff, so doesn't seem to be too bad except for that third bolt and the back hoses, people complain. Any advice on replacement is welcome as I'll be doing this in driveway while it's snowing.

Thanks,

Wes

 

[sierrafery]

Hi, the LR015303 was superseded by LR023964 and that seems to be superseded by LR044360, depends on the seller some of them are using the older part numbers some the latest some are listing them all, any of them is good, here they are all: LR072537, LR023964, LR010376, RYG500160 ,RQG500072, RQG500090, LR045251, LR044360, LR061663, same compressor different part numbers

 

[wlindsey]

Wow, that's quite the list, thanks. FCP euro has it for ~$575, Hitachi, seems about the best price out there from a reputable place.

Thanks!

Wes

 

[sierrafery]

AFAIK Hitachi is the OEM so go for it without fear

 

[LR3 newbie3]

First, I would check to see if the compressor still works, then order a desiccant kit from lucky 8. The repair video is on YouTube and if you follow the directions, beside the top bolt and the rear hoses, it will go well. I changed mine on an 07 lr3 but still getting the fault lite, so I am taking it to a shop to reset the codes and check the repair work, the compressor works but stops so I don't know if I did something right or wrong. but if you do not check it out you will burn up the compressor.

The rear air hoses should just pull out but if they have never been pulled out, the job will be difficult. Be warned and good luck!
newbie 3

 

[LR3 newbie3]

If you still get the fault codes its something else. My problem was that the compressor was failing. the psi was 150 when it should be around 250. had it changed and int working great.

 

[Cornbreadmoses]

I just changed mine out. I would get an error after it ran for about a minute. Normal ride height only. Took it to the dealership and they were going to charge $1500 to replace it. Ordered a Hitachi on eBay for $578 and changed it myself. That top bolt was difficult but once I put the universal swivel it was way easier.

 

[wlindsey]

Okay, so I've had success diagnosing and replacing the air compressor, and I wanted to share my story…

Once I had the air compressor out, I was hoping that hey I'll be lucky and it's just the desiccant beads, I can order a lucky8 kit and all will be well. So I went down this path a little bit, reviewing videos, etc. Then I started to take things apart, well, I recommend taking the black plate off. That's where I found my problem.

My issue: my problem was identical to what bbyer has posted with images on disco3 site. The push rod was completely broken in half. Okay, easy to diagnose, no rebuilding that.
Here's an update that will hopefully help out others in the future as they diagnose/replace their air compressor, i.e., what I learned...

For removal of my air compressor, I followed the more recent recommendations of removing the entire bracket/compressor assembly. There are three bolts, the top of which seems impossible to get to and remove. If I didn't know that others had successfully removed that bolt then I probably would have given up.

Recommendation: I started with 3/8" extensions and universal, very difficult, then I found it much easier using 1/4" extensions and universal.

Removing the air hoses can be difficult. It helps to have an open wrench to press down on the fitting squarely. Then try to pull the air hoses out squarely.

I ordered a new Hitachi air compressor with the new relay from FCP Euro for less than $600 shipped.

Installation - actually went in fairly easily by using the 1/4" extensions. Just wrap the end of the socket and bolt with a little tape to hold them together and snake that top bolt back into place after replacing the bottom two so that the hole is already lined up.

Then I connected the electrical and air hoses, easy, disconnected the battery to clear codes, replaced the relay (R7) with the new one, fired it up and wow, nothing happen but the suspension code popped up again. Crap, went back on the forums, found people talking about a 60 amp block fuse in the engine bay, it's yellow, the only one, looked at that, it definitely appeared burnt out, ran to Autozone and found another for $5, replaced it and that was the ticket, all is well, back on the road.

So for anyone else having to go through this, good luck!

 

[jh.]

Okay, so I've had success diagnosing and replacing the air compressor, and I wanted to share my story…

Once I had the air compressor out, I was hoping that hey I'll be lucky and it's just the desiccant beads, I can order a lucky8 kit and all will be well. So I went down this path a little bit, reviewing videos, etc. Then I started to take things apart, well, I recommend taking the black plate off. That's where I found my problem.

My issue: my problem was identical to what bbyer has posted with images on disco3 site. The push rod was completely broken in half. Okay, easy to diagnose, no rebuilding that.
Here's an update that will hopefully help out others in the future as they diagnose/replace their air compressor, i.e., what I learned...

For removal of my air compressor, I followed the more recent recommendations of removing the entire bracket/compressor assembly. There are three bolts, the top of which seems impossible to get to and remove. If I didn't know that others had successfully removed that bolt then I probably would have given up.

Recommendation: I started with 3/8" extensions and universal, very difficult, then I found it much easier using 1/4" extensions and universal.

Removing the air hoses can be difficult. It helps to have an open wrench to press down on the fitting squarely. Then try to pull the air hoses out squarely.

I ordered a new Hitachi air compressor with the new relay from FCP Euro for less than $600 shipped.

Installation - actually went in fairly easily by using the 1/4" extensions. Just wrap the end of the socket and bolt with a little tape to hold them together and snake that top bolt back into place after replacing the bottom two so that the hole is already lined up.

Then I connected the electrical and air hoses, easy, disconnected the battery to clear codes, replaced the relay (R7) with the new one, fired it up and wow, nothing happen but the suspension code popped up again. Crap, went back on the forums, found people talking about a 60 amp block fuse in the engine bay, it's yellow, the only one, looked at that, it definitely appeared burnt out, ran to Autozone and found another for $5, replaced it and that was the ticket, all is well, back on the road.

So for anyone else having to go through this, good luck!

There are soooo many threads on this (one by me) but this summary is about as good as it gets. I'll only add two points:

1) Get software that can calibrate the suspension (I bought RSW).

2) By the third time I removed/installed the compressor, I could do it in about 20 mins. If you have an impact wrench, follow the extension instructions above but use that for the top bolt. So much easier than keeping your left hand behind the compressor holding the socket as your right hand cranks it a quarter turn at a time just to have it fall off the bolt anyway.

Good luck.

 

[shaffersh1]

I have not done it myself, but I have talked to several folks who have swapped the air suspension for a coil suspension. Them seem to be happy with the conversion, but you lose some of the trucks capability obviously.

The original compressors had problems. Newer parts seem to be much more reliable. I replaced mine with about 60K on it. Now have 155K with no problems.

But it is an air compressor, afterall. The very nature of their mechanics lend themselves to a limited lifespan.

 

[HOUM_WA]

You're rounding the corner on 100k miles on your current compressor. That's a good endorsement. Do you know if it's a Hitachi or AMK? Agree on the Coil conversion. Simple yes....but it is a downgrade in terms of capability, at least on this vehicle.

 

[wlindsey]

Well, my that one that I just replaced lasted 115k with the original relay, and just blew up the push rod thingy, I think because of just poor design of allowing it to back off (I think bbyer had mentioned that), but my point is that I still think that's pretty good for the air compressor and if I had to change out every 100k then that's okay.

That being said, I have promised myself to never buy another vehicle with a air suspension again. It's just kind of stressful when you want to be out in the woods or whatever and know that in the back of your mind it can go out or one of the sensors can go out or a valve block can leak. When this one went out only the month before I had been on a Thanksgiving long trip down in Sedona. If it had gone out then, then obviously would have ruined the trip.

 

[HOUM_WA]

I can understand your concern....the EAS has proven to be far more reliable than anticipated, IMO.