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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have a 2008 Range Rover sport, super charged.

The compressor is in front of the left rear tire.

After you start the vehicle, the compressor starts after maybe 5 seconds, and it runs for about 15 seconds and then the compressor shits off - followed by "suspension fault" warning on the dash.

The vehicle is very low to the ground int he front, and a little bit higher in the back. I assume all 4 wheels are on the bump stops.

Rides terrible, very bouncy.

I sprayed all 4 struts with soapy water, and ran the pump. No bubbles.

I sprayed soapy water all around the pump and the stuff that's near it - like the solenoid / valve thing. No leaks seem to be there.

With the engine off, I disconnected a hose from the valve/solenoid block, and air pressure came out and bled off. Then I started the engine. Pump came on, and pressure was coming out of the hose.

Not sure what to do now.

What should I check next?

Any ideas?

Thanks.
 

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very disco
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Maybe if you share the trouble codes causing your compressor to shut off, we can help you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, I will post them today.

Note: the battery was disconnected the other day, which may be the reason there are like 17 faults stored, like communication errors between various different systems, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Somone said that I should check the inlet and outlet of the valve block to see if there is pressure. Then pull the lines off the tops of the struts to check for air pressure. Is that correct? How do I check the valve block? Which lines do I disconnect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So.... to the dealership? They quoted $3500 after parts, tax, diagnostic, etc if the problem was 1 leaking strut. Still dont know whats wrong with it though..........
 

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Be patient. Lots of folks do not check in with the forum every day. Someone out there should have some info. Meanwhile search the forum for suspension fault or terms close to that. You might be surprised to find helpful info.
 

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very disco
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I think you’ll find that the canbus is a very lossy system. My D3 and D4 run great, but if I pull codes at any given time, I’ll see plenty of “lost comm” garbage.

the best bet would be to buy a good scan tool, or at least a foxwell with JLR software from Amazon so that you can check your progress as you work. I’d clear all codes, start the truck, and rescan codes after the EAS errors, ignoring codes from anything other than RLC right now.

on a mobile device, it’s a real chore to try to read the sideways pictures that you posted, if you took a little time to package your information a little better, it would be easier to help!

we could offer some troubleshooting steps, but without a code reader it would be difficult to advance. Definitely don’t throw thousands at the dealer.

try deflating the entire system and disconnecting all lines from the compressor. If it runs for a little bit longer, you might assume that it’s erroring out because the pressure isn’t increasing. If it immediately errors out, then it’s something else still, but we’ll never know
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the replies. Its really difficult to even access the tops of the struts to disconnect the lines. Is there somehwere else I could disconnect that line from? When I disconnected the left rear line, the shock let out air and that corner of the vehicle sank even lower. Does anyone have any diagrams of the system? Pictures that show where the lines go, what lines do what on the pump and what not. I try to check the lines on the pump, but Im flying blind here. If I had to take a wild guess, I would say that its something simple, like a bad sensor or something, but who knows. I thought about replacing parts, but I heard that the computer has to be reprogrammed if the pump is replaced. Is that correct? Also, what abouut installing coil over strtuts to just eliminate the air ride system all together? Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Might be onto something. C1A20-64 pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.

So maybe the desiccate canister (air dryer) is plugged up? The pump comes on, it is starved for air, pressure in the system increases too slow - and the system shuts itself off?

Is there a way to temporarily bypass the air dryer to thest this theroy? If so, what hose do I disconnect?
 

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Adjacent to the compressor itself is the reservoir valve block. This manages air between the compressor, reservoir, and front/rear blocks.

the front block is behind the bumper in the front right wheel well, and you can deflate either bag from there. The rear block is before the spare tire on the undercarriage, left side. This one isn’t fun to access.

if you can view live data, then button everything up like it should and run the truck. You may see the reservoir filling slowly, you may see the reservoir not filling at all.
 
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