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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello All, I am new Here :)

I have checked multiple forums on this issue, some just literally fall off topic, other dont give a final update if solution was found, and then you get the "replace everything" idiots.

This is a 2k LR DII, has about 160K miles.

At light - Dash guage arms cycle through up and down once, then stay off. SRS light Came on, and green "s & m" mode lights flashing. Also Red Battery light turned on for a second. Windows wont even operate.

Towed my baby home. Removed Alt, had Autozone check it, failed all three tests. (while I did this, Battery was left on slow charge - good 8 hours)

Picked up Junk yard Alt - Nothing, Barely started up the land rover, then it just died. ALT was't charging batt. Got 2nd alt from Junk Yard, This unit barely kept LR running, It however was able to allow me to use my windows temporarly, when LR died, batt was dead again.

Day 3 Bought new (remanf) alt from Autozone (bit pissed off i had to remove my pully and put it on the new one). Now Everything seems to working.

I had Batt charged previous Night. Started up LR this morning. Everything appeared fine. Power windows working, no flashing lights etc. So now i wanted to know if the ALT was really doing its jobs, I unplugged the Neg Lead off the Batt Terminal - LR Died Instantly. Replaced Lead, started it back up and DID the Same thing with the POS lead on Batt - Died Instantly

Shouldn't the ALT have enough power to keep the engine running on bare minimum?( head light off, air off, etc)

I proceeded further with the test - I allowed the vehicle to continue running, after 10 min, i saw idle kick down to about 1k rpm, engine was almost quiet. windows still working. minute later, same routine, SRS light goes on, Followed by both rpm and speed guage cycles up and down then stays in off position, Both S and M mode lights flashing in green. However, No Red Battery light. Windows Not Working. But vehicle is still idling, after 30 minutes.

Is this a sign of a bad Battery on its last Leg, or do I have a faulty ground somewhere. Or is there something more. This may have been a long read but I want you to understand where I am in this project before I get ridiculous answers. FYI, I ended up smashing my multi-meter from rage so I cant do any more current, or continuity checks - so battery inspection again is off the table ARGHH!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I havnt ventured out for a new battery just yet, since the current battery was able to hold a charge, and allowed the LR to idle with headlights on for nearly 30 min. I will inspect all my earth grounds on the vehicle, also unplug the BCU unit and allow the charge to dissipate. I'm bewildered but when I do get a multi-meter I will have to use the rave wire diagrams and start mapping current paths and inspect relay points. but I first have to deduce if there is a drain on the bAttery greater than what it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello All - So I have found the solution to my struggle and It was all thanks to buying a new muli-meter.

So i reviewed all the possible culprits and stuck to the simplest issues first (KISS - keep it simple stupid).

So i inspected my grounds in the engine bay..all secure, those that appeared corroded I cleaned them up and reattached them. Then in spected the battery terminals both side (-) and (+). They were in decent shape, didn't warrant any replacemet. Now I traced the 6 guage cable (two of them) that come off my (+) on the battery terminal. Well one leads directly into the fuse box located behind the batt. 2nd one goes to the starter. I noticed that the plastic coating is some spots were looking brittle, so i pulled the cables out, snagged my old mans Heavy duty electrical tape, and gave it a good MUMMY wrap :).

Now I inspected my Alternator Power cable (Also a 6 guage wire). This is where I found the beginning of my answers :-D Upon inspection it appears the cable ties that held this wire secure broke at some point and this massive wire eventually sagged down and rested on the Exhaust Manifold - well EUREKA - we all know what happens when circuits get shorted out ;-) well Alternator caught the brunt force and FRIED. That was obvious when i brought it in to AUTOZONE for a free test.

Since I knew now I was working with a shorted circuit two issues popped in my head: Fried fuse(s) or/and Circuits.

Now FOLLOWING the magical word KISS I pulled out my multi-meter, set it on a continuity test, looked over all the fuses in the box that are HIGHER than 50amps and I found my achilles heel - In the fuse box is a large FLAT rectangular fuse. It literally lays flat on the base of the fuse box. This fuse is a 150A, for 32V. Since the center has a black riveted cover (prolly for protection so metal doesn't fly when it pops) I pulled it out after it failed the continuity test, hit up NAPA, 7 n change later I have a new Fuse and an Alternator thats charging my Battery...


Ahh feels good my Dash is in one piece....

Now I have to figure out a code p0301 on my rebuilt Saab 9-7x Linear....fix one issue, and now i deal with another.

Thanks AGAIN for EVERYONES suggestions!:buttrock:
 
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