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  • im thinking we'll driver her till she dies and MAYBE do a frame fix behind the rear axle - im starting to notice a smell from the front left corner i cannot identify as coolant or brake fluid - i sincerely hope the caliper is not leaking
we paid barely over $4k after all the auction fees - $2850 before
So sounds like you’re stuck with it for now. Ok. In that case, you’re gonna want to go through it, especially the cooling system. Replace:
  • All coolant hoses including heater hoses
  • Both plastic coolant junctions - good time to upgrade to metal junctions
  • 180 degree thermostat
  • Test viscous fan with rolled up newspaper - if you can stop it at idle with a rolled up newspaper or magazine, it needs to be replaced
  • Get an Ultragauge or OBD2 Bluetooth dongle + Torque app to monitor temps. If it gets too hot, you WILL blow the head gaskets. Again, don’t ask how I know. With a 180 t stat, it should operate between 188-194 in regular running conditions. If it’s higher then that, replace radiator and consider doing the water pump too.
This isn’t negotiable if you want reliability - do all of it! I didn’t do it all at once and ended up having to do head gaskets and got stranded once due to a cooling plastic junction letting go and draining the whole system in short order.

Check the front driveshaft u joints for play. They sit next to the cat, get hot, which bakes all the grease out and causes the driveshaft to fall out and go through the transmission case, destroying the trans. If they show any signs of age or wear, replace all the u joints or get a new or rebuilt front shaft. Mine hasn’t failed on me, but that’s because it’s pretty new from when it failed under previous ownership. The new cat and massive crack in the transmission case is evidence of this. At higher speed it will put a hole in the transmission.

Check that caliper (and the master cylinder - mine shows evidence it had leaked before) for leaks. You don’t want to lose brakes.

Change the transmission fluid and filter if you experience strange or rough shifts, or for preventative maintenance.

There’s some other engine stuff I’d do to make it last but if it’s already dropped a sleeve it’s not really worth it.

With all those issues, I’d still look into trying to get back as much money as you can selling as is (or part it out) and try to look for a better one before you dump money into this one. That is your choice, but I would personally not put any money into that thing due to the frame rust. The engine can be replaced, and while not cheap it’s doable. Same with the frame. The two combined? Not worth it in my opinion. But if you want to put money into it, go for it. Whatever you get is almost guaranteed to need work, but not having to deal with dropped sleeves and major rust is a big bonus, especially since you can get something decent mechanically (if not in as good cosmetic shape) for around what you paid for yours
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So sounds like you’re stuck with it for now. Ok. In that case, you’re gonna want to go through it, especially the cooling system. Replace:
  • All coolant hoses including heater hoses
  • Both plastic coolant junctions - good time to upgrade to metal junctions
  • 180 degree thermostat
  • Test viscous fan with rolled up newspaper - if you can stop it at idle with a rolled up newspaper or magazine, it needs to be replaced
  • Get an Ultragauge or OBD2 Bluetooth dongle + Torque app to monitor temps. If it gets too hot, you WILL blow the head gaskets. Again, don’t ask how I know. With a 180 t stat, it should operate between 188-194 in regular running conditions. If it’s higher then that, replace radiator and consider doing the water pump too.
This isn’t negotiable if you want reliability - do all of it! I didn’t do it all at once and ended up having to do head gaskets and got stranded once due to a cooling plastic junction letting go and draining the whole system in short order.

Check the front driveshaft u joints for play. They sit next to the cat, get hot, which bakes all the grease out and causes the driveshaft to fall out and go through the transmission case, destroying the trans. If they show any signs of age or wear, replace all the u joints or get a new or rebuilt front shaft. Mine hasn’t failed on me, but that’s because it’s pretty new from when it failed under previous ownership. The new cat and massive crack in the transmission case is evidence of this. At higher speed it will put a hole in the transmission.

Check that caliper (and the master cylinder - mine shows evidence it had leaked before) for leaks. You don’t want to lose brakes.

Change the transmission fluid and filter if you experience strange or rough shifts, or for preventative maintenance.

There’s some other engine stuff I’d do to make it last but if it’s already dropped a sleeve it’s not really worth it.

With all those issues, I’d still look into trying to get back as much money as you can selling as is (or part it out) and try to look for a better one before you dump money into this one. That is your choice, but I would personally not put any money into that thing due to the frame rust. The engine can be replaced, and while not cheap it’s doable. Same with the frame. The two combined? Not worth it in my opinion. But if you want to put money into it, go for it. Whatever you get is almost guaranteed to need work, but not having to deal with dropped sleeves and major rust is a big bonus, especially since you can get something decent mechanically (if not in as good cosmetic shape) for around what you paid for yours


got links for any of these part suggestions? thermostat, t-connectors, etc?
 

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got links for any of these part suggestions? thermostat, t-connectors, etc?
These are from various places, but you can get them cheaper from other places. Avoid super cheap eBay and similar parts unless they come from legit sellers. Atlantic British, Lucky8, and Rovers North are all good places to look.

Hoses and plastic cooling connector comprehensive kit here
180 t-stat here

Atlantic British site
Lucky8 site
Rovers North site

$10 Bluetooth OBD module that works with the free Torque android app here to monitor temps (same one I have)

Edit - run generic green coolant - NOT DEXCOOL! Original calls for the orange GM Dexcool stuff and it clogs coolant passages. Don't use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
These are from various places, but you can get them cheaper from other places. Avoid super cheap eBay and similar parts unless they come from legit sellers. Atlantic British, Lucky8, and Rovers North are all good places to look.

Hoses and plastic cooling connector comprehensive kit here
180 t-stat here

Atlantic British site
Lucky8 site
Rovers North site

$10 Bluetooth OBD module that works with the free Torque android app here to monitor temps (same one I have)

Edit - run generic green coolant - NOT DEXCOOL! Original calls for the orange GM Dexcool stuff and it clogs coolant passages. Don't use it.


HELLLLLLLLLLLL YAAAAA - Thank You!!
 

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HELLLLLLLLLLLL YAAAAA - Thank You!!
Oh - you’re also gonna need a 36mm fan nut wrench to get the mechanical fan off the water pump pulley if you don’t have one already.

Good tip for ya - the Atlantic British YouTube channel has some awesome videos to guide you through DIY jobs if you get stuck or want a guide.
 
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G'Day Mates!!

I am new, not only to Disco's, but also Rovers in general. Three days ago, my wife and I acquired her dream car - A Disco II from copart. The interior is IMACULATE and electronics are maso-menos. The only fails are a couple of switches for the glass (already coming from ebay). Weather stripping will need a bit of attention, as the headliner is starting to fall. Isabel Kelly (Julia Roberts) from 2001 Step-mom would shed a lone tear if she only knew how long my wife has been waiting to have this in her driveway. Guys (and Gals), I am kicking myself HARD for not doing more homework prior to bidding (facepalm).. Not to mention - I am beating myself stupid for having not crawled under the truck first (FACEPALM).. UnG-dly amounts of work have been done to this vehicle to keep her going (brake lines, suspension, exhaust, head gaskets to name a few), which is nice, however the frame rot has her days number and inevitably on borrowed time. The Chicago winter salt could give any Tacoma or 4runner owner a good laugh if they could see under this Disco with me. It is at its worst, besides the gas tank at the frames lowest points and at its best; nowhere. All this being said, I believe her clacking piston sleeve will remain unheard and drowned out by the radio until she blows and seizes - pray for me and my wife that day is years off, for she is 35 weeks into our first daughter (two boys already 10 and 8) and wants this truck to be her "Go-Home" vehicle, and we're driving her daily.

Sorry for the run-on story - just trying to lay it all out there for my first post.

The reason for my post (did i make you laugh yet?) - my left (drivers side) upper tail light housing is cracked and pooling water, but not exposed and deeming it garbage. I drilled three 1/16th" holes on the inside black plastic; two at the lower corners of the bulb house for draining and one the the center of the top bulb house for air to manage the issue in the mean time. One post claimed the draining allowed water to the tow harness which then caught fire - YIKES!! - my concern for this particular Disco, is draining water from the interior of the body will only hasten more rust wherever it decides to drip to..

Upper tail light housings for 2002-2004 Discos not only seem to be non-existent in ANY after market format but also OEM's are discontinued and sold out from any and all parts dealers (Land-Rover or not). I have briefly read on a couple other posts, 98-01 tail light housings are direct swap with minor wire re-routing from the bumper..

A) is this true?
B) can someone please help me understand how this re-route works before I dump $300 into new upper tail-light housings?
3) I will take pictures and post - THANK YOU all for reading and replying - cant wait to see how y'all eviscerate me for my noob-ness on Rovers.. The Infiniti forums (when I used to own a two door '08 G37) would drip from their jewels at any chance to gut a fool for sounding incapable or incompetant - please be gentle :)
d) again thanks in advance
On last of Series 11 the upper tail light was changed. My son deals in Dicos and he has a 2005 HSE and the problem is the same as yours.. I think just seal the whole light up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
On last of Series 11 the upper tail light was changed. My son deals in Dicos and he has a 2005 HSE and the problem is the same as yours.. I think just seal the whole light up.


not so simple - if you look at the pics i posted, the crack is right across the face of the lens, i purchased the marine goop later recommended in the thread to seal the face and drilled drain and breather holes in the rear black plastics
 

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My rear lenses are cracked there too. I think it comes from cheap globes getting too hot and deforming the plastic?

instead of super glue, take them off, clean them really well, and apply liberal coats of clear coat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
My rear lenses are cracked there too. I think it comes from cheap globes getting too hot and deforming the plastic?

instead of super glue, take them off, clean them really well, and apply liberal coats of clear coat.

I like that idea - I have quite a bit of spray laying around - that might work well
 

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For the rust, this older thread is a good read if you haven't seen it
 
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