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2003 discovery
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Thanks for that video. That’s about to be my life:

View attachment 94548


Getting the old seal out will be bitch - I used a 1/2” box wrench and a 5lb mallet - working it around and around till it popped. The washer for the king bolt on the flange was not included in my hardware kit and I had to reuse the old one. When I tightened it down all the way it seized the diff, I had to back it off a hair to free the diff up. But not too much or the flange will jiggle. Also one of the nuts was missing the nylon lock ring and I had to reuse an old one - they offered a refund/credit…
 

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Getting the old seal out will be bitch - I used a 1/2” box wrench and a 5lb mallet - working it around and around till it popped. The washer for the king bolt on the flange was not included in my hardware kit and I had to reuse the old one. When I tightened it down all the way it seized the diff, I had to back it off a hair to free the diff up. But not too much or the flange will jiggle.
W/R/T the seal, just insert your handy dandy snap-on seal puller and the seal pops right out!

W/R/T the nut holding the diff flange on, torque is Absofuckinglutely critical here as it sets preload, etc.

If you tightened it enough to cause the diff to stop turning, you probably knackered the pinion bearings and are likely on borrowed time.

get back under there and torque it to the correct spec! If not torqued tightly enough, the splines will wear doing ungood things to the flange and the pinion gear
 
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These are from various places, but you can get them cheaper from other places. Avoid super cheap eBay and similar parts unless they come from legit sellers. Atlantic British, Lucky8, and Rovers North are all good places to look.

Hoses and plastic cooling connector comprehensive kit here
180 t-stat here

Atlantic British site
Lucky8 site
Rovers North site

$10 Bluetooth OBD module that works with the free Torque android app here to monitor temps (same one I have)

Edit - run generic green coolant - NOT DEXCOOL! Original calls for the orange GM Dexcool stuff and it clogs coolant passages. Don't use it.
Good links. My friend recently acquired this 2003 Discovery 2 project with rad issues so we may need to replace the hoses. It's neat with a new set of rotors and tires from 4 Wheelonline.
 

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2003 Discovery 2 SE7
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Good links. My friend recently acquired this 2003 Discovery 2 project with rad issues so we may need to replace the hoses. It's neat with a new set of rotors and tires from 4 Wheelonline.
Just rebuilt the whole cooling system. All new hoses, new rad, new water pump, new 180 thermostat, and test the clutch fan - if it’s bad, replace it too. You don’t want the cooling system to fail and strand you or overheat the truck and blow the head gaskets
 

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Just rebuilt the whole cooling system. All new hoses, new rad, new water pump, new 180 thermostat, and test the clutch fan - if it’s bad, replace it too. You don’t want the cooling system to fail and strand you or overheat the truck and blow the head gaskets
It seems rebuilding the whole cooling system is a better route. Thanks
 

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2001 & 2004 Discovery Series II SE7, with AND without SAI
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It seems rebuilding the whole cooling system is a better route. Thanks
Always - just save yourself the trouble.

Carrs4x4 sells the T-pipe and 3-way while Allisport sells the Aluminum Radiator and Coolant Reservoir.

I personally just deleted every piece of plastic in the cooling system.
 

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I am in Canada, Burlington, Ontario, with a 22 year old Discovery 2. It has over 345,000 kms. I have not spent over $3000 cdn in the past 10 yrs of ownership. Brakes, exhaust and yes head gaskets. My current project is removing the ACE system from the car and replacing it with the non ACE sway bars. The pipes rotted and the replacement ones while inexpensive in the UK are over priced in North America. Lucky8 in the Buffalo area has some good prices and Foundry 4X4 ltd Tredegar, Gwent, UK has some really good prices. It can be an interesting car to work on and frustrating but satisfying. I have replaced the head gaskets on this car myself in my driveway, no machining, just change the gaskets and go. The stupidest repair was the heater core and the idiot "O" rings for the heater lines. I eventually had the heater line pipes welded one to the core. Aluminium welded, no leaks. If you fix it your self its easy. Rust - scrape, paint and under coat. The door locks suck, not British locks. Bosch made the lock and I think it was revenge over losing the two wars that they are so bad. Dash lights - unplug the bulbs that annoy you as long as the bulbs in question are not important. Water leaks yep but hey it's English.
 

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2001 & 2004 Discovery Series II SE7, with AND without SAI
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Always - just save yourself the trouble.

Carrs4x4 sells the T-pipe and 3-way while Allisport sells the Aluminum Radiator and Coolant Reservoir.

I personally just deleted every piece of plastic in the cooling system.
And don't get a cheap water-pump. It'll make the difference when you get about half-way into the life of the cooling system.

In the end, ownership comes down to 1 question - IMHO:

Are you going to do the work on this vehicle yourself or are you going to have a dealership do it?

If the answer to that question is the later, then you need to run away now because you are going to go broke trying to stay on top of all the PMS required for a classic (or close to it). If the answer is the first and you feel you can do the work then I have found our trucks to be dependable as a daily as long as it's maintained per the RAVE and all PMS is performed within tolerance. Unfortunately, that excludes the majority of people, even with a knowledge share such as ours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
W/R/T the seal, just insert your handy dandy snap-on seal puller and the seal pops right out!

W/R/T the nut holding the diff flange on, torque is Absofuckinglutely critical here as it sets preload, etc.

If you tightened it enough to cause the diff to stop turning, you probably knackered the pinion bearings and are likely on borrowed time.

get back under there and torque it to the correct spec! If not torqued tightly enough, the splines will wear doing ungood things to the flange and the pinion gear

thats funny - but not really - atlantic british said just back it off a hair to free up the diff and youll be good to go
 
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