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Sobieski,
My '04 DII has done the same thing for at least the past 10 years, and it only has 145K on it. I have a couple of local shops that I go to, and one is run by a former dealership service manager and one of the dealership's solihull trained techs. With an ever rotating inventory of junker rovers in their yard they will pull a part you need and you can roll the dice, run hi tech sealant through the water system to get a few more miles, and all the normal workshop manual stuff, etc. I trust the owner.

When my head gaskets finally went in 2015, I decided to replace them, but had a line on earlier model 4.0. That was definitely rolling the dice. When they got the cylinders back from being reground, the shop told them that one of them was not perfectly round, but a little oval. They attributed the sound to that imperfection. I'm not a mechanic or an engineer, so can't argue it one way or the other, but it still makes the noise intermittently - sometimes more frequently, sometimes really loud - but it climbs mountains, spends weeks exploring the desert, and is my daily driver to this day.

I am willing to live with the noise because it still does what it was born to do and I use it for those capabilities. I know a lot of the junkers at the shop were bought cheap because of that noise. My wife would never live with her car doing that - and loves to tell me how I should live without it (!) - so you might want to start driving yours if you want to keep it ?

Regards,
Dave
 

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very disco
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Agreed. I was terrified when mine started ticking. After spending time and money on engine work, diagnostics, second opinions... I decided that when it broke I would finally know the cause.

the damned thing never broke, but I did feel self conscious idling at a stop, with the rhythmic clacking serenading those around me
 

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Self conscious? Why? Your engine is (cough) dieseling... :)

You are green, and tread lightly
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Does anyone have a guess on how many “shop hours” it would be to replace that flex plate?
Thanks.
 

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Replacement of the flex plate is a BIG JOB?you are either pulling the trans or pulling the engine
My labour guide is a little foggy on the description but looks like about 9 hrs
 

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Just Drive it :) mine makes that sound also same area.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well snickerdoodles. I do have a rear main seal leak and a oil pan gasket that is exactly bone dry. But 9 hours just in time is pretty steep.

Dave, what will/could happen if I just drive it and ... I know-not-what happens?...
Could this damage my transmission, if left unattended to?
 

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Well snickerdoodles. I do have a rear main seal leak and a oil pan gasket that is exactly bone dry. But 9 hours just in time is pretty steep.

Dave, what will/could happen if I just drive it and ... I know-not-what happens?...
Could this damage my transmission, if left unattended to?
We probably don't have the same issue. Last I checked I had oil in mine. I have a rear main seal leak also. I use Shell Rotella 15W40 and it slowed it down by a lot. How did you check and got verification that the noise is the flex plate?
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Dave, I didn't confirm. I am 99% sure, but I think the only way to tell about the flex plate is to drop the oil pan and look; which I am reluctant to do. I would be willing to have my local shop (who I trust, though they are expensive) drop the oil pan, (hopefully) confirm the flex plate (replace it), and do my rear main seal. But.... well it's only money.
 

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Rear main requires trans removal, not oil pan?
No visual access to the thin drive plate (the one that cracks) with oil pan removed ?
You mentioned the rubber plugs are missing,
Have you checked for loose torque converter bolts?? (Access thru the holes the rubber plugs go in)
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Good calls all the way around Red.
No, I haven't checked for loose torque converter bolts - how do I spin that plate to line up the bolts with the inspection holes?
Thanks.
 

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You cam manually rotate the engine using the crank pulley / harmonic balancer bolt
 

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91699
 

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I had a set kicking around:
- Main flywheel/ring gear is heavy, cast and very unlikely to crack
-2 spacer rings (don’t recall the order of assembly off hand)
- torque converter drive plate (that’s what I would call it?) - the shiny one in the picture. Thin, stamped steel and most likely to be what would fail
 
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