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Nic
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73 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Here is my story, would be very grateful for all and any input regarding the problems I am having with my 88.
I bought this Rover about a month ago. It was running OK. I drove it 200 of the 240 miles from Alabama to where I live in North Carolina without incident. During the journey these are the running issues I noticed; when hot it would struggle to start and then smoke badly on firing up. This would calm right down and it would tick over evenly. On shutting the engine off from hot she would run on badly.
Fuel consumption seemed what I would expect from a Land Rover, with 2 fills getting me the 200 hundred miles with some to spare from the second fill.
The journey came to a premature end when it shredded the fan belt and over-heated. After a botched, get me home, repair it got another 2-3 miles before cooking again this time with a loud rattling sound that came from the top-rear of the engine.

Once it was safely home, courtesy of the AAA, I stripped the head off the engine. I intended to change the head to an unleaded head anyway so this seemed like the idea opportunity.

I bought a new unleaded head, and as all the hoses looked old and not wanting to take any chances I also bought new hoses including the heater hoses, a water pump, fan belt, thermostat, heater valve, and radiator cap. As the carb was leaking badly and because of the smoking and at this time I still had the funds, I bought a Weber single barrel carb.

While the head was off I noticed the bored where vertically scored but concluded that this was damage that was already there and as funds did not allow me to rebuild the bottom end I decided to chance it. At this point I still had no idea what had caused the horrendous rattle from the top end.
Once everything had been rebuilt I started her up, she fired right up. I took it for a run and then rechecked the tappet clearances (cold) they all required readjustment and were all set to 10 as stated in the book.

I noticed that she was running very rich on tick over, creating black sooty smoke but once running the exhaust output would clear right up. On restart when hot it would exhibit the same struggle to start, sounding light it would catch on one cylinder after another and again producing black sooty smoke. It also the idle screw seemed ineffective.

On further investigation I found the new carb was leaking. Atlantic British sent me a replacement without delay and once it had been installed things improved. I was now able to set the carb up as the instructions said and the smoke reduced considerably plus it now started up smartly on all cylinders from hot and was much easier to start from cold.
So now the picture is like this the vehicle is running pretty well, ticks over nicely and starts predictably.

Most of the vacuum circuit is gone as no mention of any of it was made in any document I read on installing the Weber plus the lever required to operate some of it are not found on the Weber. The vacuum pipes on the manifold have been blanked off and only the EGR valve (new diaphragm fitted) is in place.

All this leads us to the present. I have three issues I’d like your collective opinion of;
Firstly, when I drive it, if I accelerate hard or labour the engine in any way (go up hill etc) that rattle I heard when it blew the head gasket can be heard, it may not be the same cause but the sound is identical, if I let my foot of the throttle it dies down, I have also had journeys where it goes away almost completely where it can barely be heard, but most of the time this is not the case. She will also run on 50% of the time, mostly after highway travel. The timing has been set statically by the book and idle is as lean as I can get it without it popping on the over run.

Secondly, I can have terrible trouble changing down to second, if I wait until I am almost stationary, more often than not I can-not select first, second or reverse. I can persuade it to select one of those gear by letting the clutch up and revving the engine and trying to select reverse, once reverse has been achieved I am then able to select first or second easily. If I come down the gears whilst still moving at around 5-10mph I can get it straight in to second 99% of the time. When I changed the gearbox oil a tooth dropped out with the oil and I, with my limited knowledge, think it came from the synchromesh which might explain my trouble in this area?

Thirdly, I am currently averaging 13 mpg I know I can get more, I understand that 15 is expected and freewheeling hubs and an over drive might give me 18, is there some area I need to investigate or change etc?
Engine oil is 20/50 plus Lucas oil treatment. Gearbox oil is Lucas 85/140 I am running Regular gas/petrol (US)

Just as a note, there seems to be vibration which suggests ceased UJs but I have not confirmed this yet. From what I can make out this Landy has gone from sitting around a lot to daily use in a short space of time.
Comment on any or all of my issues would be very helpful. I really enjoy driving my Landy (names Tater by my wife) and hope to have it a long time.

Thanks all for your help in advance
Nic
 
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