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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just completed a major top end rebuild on my 87 EFI 3.5.
I've set the timing to -6 tdc and checked all the linkages and reset the throttle potentiometer.
The car starts from cold fine with a healthy tickover and a white exhaust colour. The car does not use water (anymore, thanks to a head skim and composite gaskets!)
If I blip the throttle the car responds fine. I have replaced for the moment the one-way inline valve from the plenum chamber to the vacuum advance unit on the distributor with a plain tube.
The problem is when the car warms up it seems to get very rich with a white/blue exhaust and the tickover drops to the point of virtually stalling.
I cannot adjust the tickover any higher to make it run faster.
Can anyone please tell me if the Thermoswitch could be to blame? I have read about it somewhere on the site but and not sure how much influence it has on the injection system.
I don't think it is the stepper motor as these models do not have one(apparently) or if so I really cannot find it!
Also the overrun shut-off valve has two electrical connection which can be wired up either way....could this be causing me the 'blues' as well?
I would really appreciate any input here as I must soon remove the car.
As always, many thanks,
Philippe
 

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Stalling when warm....

Hi,
Have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? Often a problem of warm/hot stalling.

Here is a paragraph from rrremedies;

Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor has caused stalling upon startup, refusal to idle when hot and excessive fuel consumption on both his RR Classic and his 97 Discovery. He first discovered it on his Disco when it generated an OBD-II fault code indicating "exceeding max air percentage". Cleaning the sensor solved the problem. On his Classic, he zeroed in on the MAF sensor incorrect air mixture message after his attempts to fix the stalling problem by changing idle air control valve did not work. During his investigations he accidentally disconnected the MAF sensor, and found that it made little difference -- leading him to suspect it might be inoperative. After removing the snap ring and screen, he gave its insides a good lean by injecting the following into the sensor hole: WD-40, diluted simple green, water, and low pressure air (the latter two to flush out any residual lubricant). If he was doing it again he would use tuner cleaner (the TV stuff available at Radio Shack), but would still recommend flushing out the lubricant/cleaner.

worth a try,
Good luck,
Andy
 
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