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Thinking of switching to a RR from a 99 TJ (Jeep Wrangler)

5948 Views 24 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  98RRover
I drove a 98 Range Rover the other day, looking for a car for my girlfriend. But I have to say I was actually really impressed at the rovers off road prowess. Locking diffs, full manual low range control, and the coolest thing I have to admit was being able to raise and lower the suspension with a button.

I am now seriously considering trading in the jeep for one. Just a few questions...

With stock suspension, what tire size can you go up to with minimal rubbing? The reason I ask is because I just got 31x10.5x15 bfg's for the jeep and id like to swap em over. Id like to have minimum 31's on it, if it cant be done stock what lift do I need?

Which brings up another question... what size rim is on the range rover? if its not 15", what bolt pattern is used so I could possibly swap my 15's now so I could use the bfg's.

When you get a lift, can you still use the button in the cockpit to raise the suspension further or does it get canceled out by the lift and mad eonly able to go lower?

How do the lockers on the diffs work, only in low gear? under 10mph?

Rock crawling and articulation, how does this thing stack up?

What type of suspension does it have, coils?

What is the best site for off road upgrades, like for landrovers?

The 4.0 that I drove seemed to have engine problems, I took it on the highway and top speed was about 65mph... Im not holding that against it because im assuming it has problems. But how does the 4.0 normally do on the highway, im a fast driver, usually around 80-90, and id like it to have power even at that speed. If its not enough, then how is the 4.6?

As far as realiability, the only ones in my price range have 100k+ miles on them, how long do these things last? Is there any specific model year I should avoid?

I think thats it, feel free to add anything that I should know about going from a wrangler.
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There are a few interesting and wrong points made in a few posts here.

First, NO 4.0 or 4.6 p38a is coil sprung in stock form. They are ALL use airbags for springs. That is how they raise and lower. If you wished to convert to coils, you would lose the ability to raise and lower the car at will. The 4.0 models usually come with 16" wheels, while the 4.6 comes with 18". If you wished to lift the car for more clearance, you CAN use a dealers computer to change the airspring values resulting in a higher ride at normal driving settings. There have been a variety of things done to alter the stock air suspension, with lots of good readings on If you used body spacers to lift the car without reprogramming the air suspension values, you could run into some serious problems such are the cones that the airspring mounts on clashing at lower settings.

While the 4.0 you drove was obviously a dud (the first 4.6 I drove also was a dud, and almost put me off buying one), you should definitely opt for the 4.6. It has more power, has been shown to be a bit more reliable, and comes with a heavier-duty transmission. You want to get a 99 or newer, as they use Bosch engine management instead of Lucas, a big improvement. I am also not sure of the other changes made in '99, but I believe my '97 uses a viscous coupling and not difflocks. Without checking, I believe that is the same throughout this model's years.

Just FYI, I replaced my Wagoneer with the Range Rover, and have been impressed in some areas, while not in others, such as highway manners that I have yet to correct, although I am working on it as I get time. Under 65mph it beats the Wagoneer handily, but it jumps around a LOT when I go a bit faster and the road is not perfectly smooth.

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My original target was a late-model Country LWB. They are very roomy, comfortable, and nice looking cars. I went and drove a couple, and was impressed. The third car I drove was a P38a, and 5 months later that is what I bought. Why did I buy a p38a instead of a Country LWB? Well, my first impression of the classic was that it was underpowered, especially the LWB model. I think the only thing I prefered in the classic models was the smoother ride. The p38a has a slightly harsher ride, but all the other improvements more than make up for it, and I am hoping to smooth the ride out when Arnott finishes their 3rd genereation airsprings.

Anywho, I suggest you drive at least 2 or 3 of each model and see what you think then.

loudog3114 said:
I think im leaning towards the p38... its a 4.0se that im looking at... but it has 100k on it, is that a bad thing or should I not worry?

Things to take close looks at as they would normally be failing or have failed by that point:

-EAS system, mainly pump and airbags. Raise and lower the car a bunch to drain the air tank, see how long it takes the pump to refill it, and see how loud the pump is. Is it very audible from inside the car? Inspect the bags for cracking at the various lift points.

-ABS accumulator/pump. With the car off, press the brake pedal 25 times or so to discharge the accumulator. Turn ignition on, see how long it takes for the ABS pump to charge system and shut off. Once it is charged, how many times can you press the brake pedal before the pump turns on again? While doing this, do the ABS/Traction lights come on?

To me, these seem to be the most common things needs service around that mileage, and seem to be the things people have the most problems with.

I still think you should really opt for a 4.6!

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