Just got a LR3 HSE 06 and had the fluttering at the stop sign. Took the throttle body off and it was just varnished to the max. It was so bad that you had to wipe crap off right when you sprayed it or it would just stick back to it. What about all the crap in there just past the throttle body ? Can I spray carb cleaner into the throttle body wile its running like I have with my 99 DII? It did clear up the fluttering, cleaned the MAFS all so.
Throttle body yuck
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Exactly the issue I have with throttle body cleaning. You take care of the idle problem, and think everything is good. If you notice, almost all of the build up is on the inside of the blade, there is just as much build up throughout the intake, and on the back side of the intake valves, where the injectors don't spray.
Personally I highly recommend an Induction service(and an Injection service for the injectors and combustion chambers, these AJ engines like Carbon), when done properly, it's a night and day difference. However, it's not really a DIY process, as the equipment is expensive. A lot of people will use Seafoam, which will do a pretty good job and cleaning up the wet stuff, but really isn't harsh enough of a chemical, or done in the correct manner to really take care of anything baked on.
Just spraying some cleaner while running won't do that much, as the spray will not be atomized enough to allow it to soak in and do it's job, think of the difference of a humidifier and spraying water through a fan.
Personally I highly recommend an Induction service(and an Injection service for the injectors and combustion chambers, these AJ engines like Carbon), when done properly, it's a night and day difference. However, it's not really a DIY process, as the equipment is expensive. A lot of people will use Seafoam, which will do a pretty good job and cleaning up the wet stuff, but really isn't harsh enough of a chemical, or done in the correct manner to really take care of anything baked on.
Just spraying some cleaner while running won't do that much, as the spray will not be atomized enough to allow it to soak in and do it's job, think of the difference of a humidifier and spraying water through a fan.
Wags,
You want to completely remove the TB to clean it. Buy a new gasket from the dealer or other parts house first as you'll want to put a new one on it.
You want to completely remove the TB to clean it. Buy a new gasket from the dealer or other parts house first as you'll want to put a new one on it.
Pulling the throttle body doesn't do much more for you, you're just cleaning off an extra inch or so of metal. The idle issue is caused by build up where the blade meets the housing. Cleaning out a little more doesn't really give you any gains. For best results, the entire intake needs to be cleaned.
I did unbolt it to clean it but used the same metal gasket. I can get one and replace it.
I have seen a $ 130.00 kit with cleaner that you can get more cleaner when you want it. Might help but nothing like the dealers got.
And what about all that stuff on the right hand side of the throttle body? I'm sure that's full of crap. Wasn't going to play with that though.
On the right side of the throttle body?
Do you mean the motor for it, electrical part, or the EGR that sits off to the side?
I have never seen an EGR failure on one of these, replaced one differential pressure sensor, but not due to build up at all... These trucks build up a good amount of Carbon in the intake due to the PCV design, but they burn pretty clean, so you don't end up with clogged EGR tubes like many older vehicles had.
Do you mean the motor for it, electrical part, or the EGR that sits off to the side?
I have never seen an EGR failure on one of these, replaced one differential pressure sensor, but not due to build up at all... These trucks build up a good amount of Carbon in the intake due to the PCV design, but they burn pretty clean, so you don't end up with clogged EGR tubes like many older vehicles had.
That's good news. Would a local ford dealership be able to clean that out? or import dealership?
Most dealerships can do a induction service.
Give where you want, ask if they do BG services, particularly an induction service. Do not pay pore then 200 for it. Chemicals should be around 80, and no more then 1 hour labor, at what ever their rate is.
BG chemicals are the best that I have ever used for this, and I've used a good amount of different products. Biggest thing with the service is that it is done properly, a lot of techs think that it's done a good job when you finish up, take it outside, hit the gas, and get a large ploom of smoke. That is not correct, the smoke you see then is just the chemical that has puddled up in the intake system being all burnt and put throw the cat. conv. all at once. It should be done off idle, with several throttle sweeps during the service. A little bit of smoke the entire time, not a lot at the end.
Give where you want, ask if they do BG services, particularly an induction service. Do not pay pore then 200 for it. Chemicals should be around 80, and no more then 1 hour labor, at what ever their rate is.
BG chemicals are the best that I have ever used for this, and I've used a good amount of different products. Biggest thing with the service is that it is done properly, a lot of techs think that it's done a good job when you finish up, take it outside, hit the gas, and get a large ploom of smoke. That is not correct, the smoke you see then is just the chemical that has puddled up in the intake system being all burnt and put throw the cat. conv. all at once. It should be done off idle, with several throttle sweeps during the service. A little bit of smoke the entire time, not a lot at the end.
Thank's, they tell me I was born in your town. Dad, Army.
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