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ticking noise at operating temp 00 Disco 2

1899 Views 11 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  MisfitMatt
So I'm new to the forum but glad to have joined. I've gone through four Disco's so far in life and am hoping to stop the cycle. Soooo I bought this one from a guy and he just had the engine rebuilt (new heads, all new seals & gaskets, all new hoses, k&n air filter, new alternator, etc..) I know my rovers and this one was pretty and sounded great as well. It needed a tranny so I got a good one from a friend with a bunch of disco parts. Put it in and took off on a 4,000 mile journey and it did great. Along the way I had to replace my idle control pulley and water pump. It DID NOT overheat. Now that I got home I have this ticking noise around my drivers side of the engine and my oil light blinks on & off every now and again.... the ticking goes away with exeleration but gets worse the longer I drive.

I have had the ticking before on a disco but I want it gone on this one. I have listened to each valve cover and they all sound fine. Just did oil/filter change with Rottela and Napa gold filter problem is still there. Any help would be appreciated.

P.s sorry for the long winded post.
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Oh and engine has 175k since new and 7000 since rebuild.
When you 1st said you heard it on the driver's side, I was thinking an exhaust manifold leak, but the blinking oil light is not a good sign. I'd be thinking about replacing the oil pump gears. Not too hard to do. I wonder if this was done with the engine job. It certainly should have been done, but who knows.
You think I should replace the whole oil pump or just the gears. I think the light and the ticking noise are unrelated. The light started about a week before the ticking.. I dont know if that helps or complicates things. I did the pipe to ear test on both exhaust manifolds and didntbthink the tick was coming from there. How do gain access to the oil pump?
The 1st thing i would do is talk to the guy that did the rebuild and find out if the oil pump was replaced during the overhaul. The oil pump is in the front cover and an integral part of it. It's a gear pump driven by the crankshaft. Not too hard to replace. I'd start by finding if it was replaced. These things do wear out. Checking the oil pressure would let you know if it's low/out-of-spec or if there's another problem.
Ill talk to him today and see if he replaced it and let you know
He replaced the oil pump as part of the rebuild..
No codes I'm guessing, other than the occasional oil light blinking? When the ticking goes away with an increase in engine speed, makes me think low oil pressure as oil pressure is relational to engine speed. If your oil light is blinking, I would not drive it until I find out what the problem is. It comes on when oil pressure drops to about 6 psi. I would do an oil pressure test at cold idle and 2000 rpm cold, and then the same at hot idle and hot 2000 rpm. Your numbers should be in the range of: 30 psi @ cold idle, 50 psi @ 2000 rpm cold. 10 psi @ hot idle and 40 psi @ 2000 rpm hot. These numbers are approximate. There are any number of reasons why an old engine would have low oil pressure such as worn valve seals, worn rings, bad lifters, worn out oil pump, worn bearings or sludge or some crap blocking the oil pickup tube ect, but a rebuilt engine should not have these problems. I am concerned that you had to replace your water pump after only 7,000 miles following a rebuild. Sometimes (I'm not saying this is your case) when folks do rebuilds, they cut corners such as reusing old components such as lifters, cam or other parts which is a complete no-no. Get some oil pressure numbers and we can go from there, but DO NOT keep driving it with the oil light blinking!

Matt B.
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I'll get a pressure test done asap.. is there a tool or gauge I can buy to do it myself?
You remove the oil pressure switch. It's just below the water pump on the passenger side. Screw an adapter in with a pressure gauge and then start it up and check cold & hot oil pressures.

Matt B.
Well I found the oil pressure switch but unfortunately the hex is already stripped :/ kind of a bad sign .. is it same to assume that the oil pump is to blame? Or should I bust out their hammer & get the nut out? I'm not driving it until I get it fixed .. I've got a buddy who's pretty good with a wrench that's going to help with the pump if that's the culprit. .... gotta love these Disco's!
Your problem may be as simple as a bad oil pressure switch. But you said the ticking problem gets worse with extended driving which doesn't sound like just a bad switch. I find it hard to believe someone would put a fouled up oil pressure switch back into the front cover on a rebuild. If it were me, I would get the old switch out by whatever means using sound mechanical practices and then doing an oil pressure test. That's the only way to tell if the pump is bad. Maybe it was installed wrong (gear bevel in the wrong position) & hte gear possibly became cracked? Worst case, you may have to remove the front cover to get the switch out & then you can inspect the oil pump gears. I would hope you can get the switch out without having to do that and check things, but if the pump is bad, it will have to come off anyway.
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