[Jayce]

Howdee All

Today, was the day that I had to endure a Toyota driver, tell me that his vehicle was the official recovery vehicle for my landy. Ah wellm at least I did not have to push.

The timing chain, as I pulled off from a traffic light, I engaged second and heard metal "clunk". My vehicle promptly died, similar to my Fiat when its cambelt went, with no compression evident While was towed home I could hear something rattling. Got home, checked the fuel lines, and after some time realised that there was no spark on 2,3 and 4. We checked the distributor and found that the rotor was not spinning despite the engine turning over. Then withdrew the distributor to find the shat working perfrectly, and the dog in the engine housing not turning. We the proceeded to remove the tapper cover, to cofirm the worst........ no movement what so ever..... now my questions:

1. Do we all agree that it is the timing chain.

2. If it is the timing chain, what is the grade of difficulty to repair 1 = easy 5 = let a professional do it.

3. If I do it myself, how many man hours am I in for.

4. Whilst making the repair what are the things to look out for.

5. Will I require any special tools

My Landrover has not given me a days hassle since I took over the ownership in November last year, I would like to get her back to that state as soon as possible and would appreciate any advice you could possibly give me.

Regards

Jayce

 

[TerryS]

Sounds like you have diagnosed it pretty well. The only other possible reason the distributor (and Oil pump) aren't turning is if the cam broke. But since the chain is the more likely culprit, I'd guess you were right. As long as you can get the parts, cover gasket, etc, it's about a 2 1/2 wrench job at the most. The tensioner slipper is probably worn out, but no sence ordering parts till you get the front cover off . I think you'll find it much easier to work on if you pull the radiator, and breakfast panel right out, so you have a straight shot. Let us know what you find when you get into it.

 

[Bogatyr]

And, to add to what Terry said, if you have to pull the front engine cover off, you might as well replace that oil seal in the cover if it's leaking. Remember, the front pulley has to come off, which might not be the easiest thing...

I'd say it's longer than a 2.5 hour job though, plan the better part of a day...

Bogatyr

 

[Moeras]

Jayce

Correct me if Im wrong, But youv got the Chev 4.1 conversion?

 

[Jayce]

Hi Moeras

no, I have the 2.25 petrol, with 8.5:1 compression head and modified cam to maximise the weber 36 dcd setup I have with modified intake manifold.

Regards

 

[Moeras]

Oh Sorry my mistake.

Changing the chain is not that difficult. (If your valves did not take a knock!!!)

Main problem areas to look for:
1) Check that the valves is still ok.
2) You need a large tool to take the front nut off (a Monkey wrench will do)
To get inthere take the whole of the grill and radiator out. if possible sommer take the fenders off aswell.
3) The hayes manual describes the setting of the timing chain and cam in good detail. It is very easy if you follow those steps.

Sterkte boet.

 

[Jayce]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Moeras you have raised an additional concern about checking the valves. What is the best way of doing that? Will I pick it up when changing the chain?

I have an original landrover manual, and they have only a cautionary note for the diesel when getting the camshaft and crank lined up that one could foul the valves, and nothing for the petrol. I really dont want to do unnecessary work here.

Cheers

 

[Moeras]

Sorry to do this to you mate!!

You can try to check the valve stems from the top (with the gasket cover removed.)
But to be sure you need to take the top off and check the insides.

Try this site for some manuals:

http://www.landrover.ee/est/varia/downloads/cars.htm

 

[Jayce]

Thought I would give you an update. I proceeded to strip last night and it only took me 1:45hrs to get the point where I had removed all the securing bolts for the front cover. However the next 30 minutes was spent trying to get the thing off. It looks like the previous owner, has used some jointing compound, feels like silicon, which is making my job a lot harder. It is pretty lose on the lower left side, moving far enough away for the water to pour from the water pump unit. Its the left side near the top that does not want to budge.

I have double checked the securing bolts, and cant seem to find one that I have missed. And as far as I can see I only need to remove the three bolts from the water pump which bolt into the block. Is there one that I have maybe missed?

I should get my spares today and excited to get my beast working. However I wont be getting very far, if I cant remove the front cover. Any tricks of the trade here would be greatly appreciated. another question for the locals, what gasket sealer is available for me to use, with the new gaskets I am getting to make sure that I have a water tight fit?

Look forward to hearing from you.

Cheers

 

[Series 3 guy]

Thought I would give you an update. I proceeded to strip last night and it only took me 1:45hrs to get the point where I had removed all the securing bolts for the front cover. However the next 30 minutes was spent trying to get the thing off. It looks like the previous owner, has used some jointing compound, feels like silicon, which is making my job a lot harder. It is pretty lose on the lower left side, moving far enough away for the water to pour from the water pump unit. Its the left side near the top that does not want to budge.

I have double checked the securing bolts, and cant seem to find one that I have missed. And as far as I can see I only need to remove the three bolts from the water pump which bolt into the block. Is there one that I have maybe missed?

I should get my spares today and excited to get my beast working. However I wont be getting very far, if I cant remove the front cover. Any tricks of the trade here would be greatly appreciated. another question for the locals, what gasket sealer is available for me to use, with the new gaskets I am getting to make sure that I have a water tight fit?

Look forward to hearing from you.

Cheers

HEAT and lots of it.I am not an official landy mechanic but have had a career in rebuilding Detroit diesels on yachts for a while and found that A torch does the job.BE CARFUL AROUND FUEL LINES AND THE LIKE!!! If you are too close to a line,wich you shouldnt be dont do it. If not go for it.That has helped me in the past get out of stuck bolts.

 

[Moeras]

Thought I would give you an update. I proceeded to strip last night and it only took me 1:45hrs to get the point where I had removed all the securing bolts for the front cover. However the next 30 minutes was spent trying to get the thing off. It looks like the previous owner, has used some jointing compound, feels like silicon, which is making my job a lot harder. It is pretty lose on the lower left side, moving far enough away for the water to pour from the water pump unit. Its the left side near the top that does not want to budge.

I have double checked the securing bolts, and cant seem to find one that I have missed. And as far as I can see I only need to remove the three bolts from the water pump which bolt into the block. Is there one that I have maybe missed?

I should get my spares today and excited to get my beast working. However I wont be getting very far, if I cant remove the front cover. Any tricks of the trade here would be greatly appreciated. another question for the locals, what gasket sealer is available for me to use, with the new gaskets I am getting to make sure that I have a water tight fit?

Look forward to hearing from you.

Cheers

3??? Mate there is supposed to be about 8!!!

Locally we have a very good gasket sealer by the name of "Indian head". It is a thick red past that you put onto gaskets before you fit them. Stops all leaks!! Go for about R12 to R25 per tube, depending on size. I can recomend it!!

 

[Jayce]

Hi Moeras, and the rest of you who have contributed their advice

Thanks for the advice, although I found out the hard way, that I had missed a bolt, there are four which secure the upper part of the front cover to the block. The rest just keep the front cover on the water pump intact. The one I missed was just next to the water pipe. Something odd did happen to me though, according to my liscensing papers I have a engine with starts with 99 serial number. This according to the landrover manual, I've got, would mean it should be a 5 main bearing engine. In anticipation of this, I ordered the required timing chain, only to find when I removed the front cover, that I have a three main bearing engine, with the result that my newly acquired timing chain was too short.

I was met with some interesting sights, when the cover came off. I found what had caused the break (chain was not worn). The antislap pad, had come off and fallen down onto the crankshaft gears, which then got pulled in between the gears and chain, effectively increasing the diameter of the gear, straining the chain until it snapped. The culprit appeared to be the bolt securing the antislap pad to the block, which had worn and unscrewed itself.

Another quirk, was that the sprocket on the tensioner appears to be a hand fashioned wheel with no teeth and only ridges to guide the chain. This was an ex military vehicle so I presume someone had to make a plan at some stage. This ill suited set up, as resulted in the chain making a fine scouring mark on the block, at the lower left point of its path.

Anyway, I thought that this one might be for the books. I am getting the right chain today, as well as a new sprocket. Hold thumbs guys, I just must make sure that I dont get my timing 180 degrees out, when it comes to setting it up.

Cheers

Jayce

 

[Jayce]

Its Alive!

Well despite working from 21:00 to 01:00 last night in the cold winter night, twisting a head of a bolt, and spending half an hour fixing the ignition wire which my spanner caught and broke off, I have the following comments to make, salted by the fact that I have never done more than change a fuel filter and fit a speedo cable to my Landrover (my total mechanical experience):

1. Landrovers are pretty much idiot proof, thats if you got a manual on hand and dont mind reading instructions
2. Landrovers seem to be able to operate for quite some time with even homemade components
3. The new timing chain has improved the driveability of my vehicle. I thought my clutch was on its way out, becuase of a constant delayed engagement of gear. This however is gone, obviously slack in my timing chain was the problem
4. She purrs like a kitten, I can actually hear that some of my tappets need adjustment, a lot of other engine noise is gone.
5.And to the guy who pulled me out in his Toyota Hilux double cab bakkie, I will see you on the road!!!!! I bet it would cost him 10 times more than the R250 I spent on spares to get his timing chain done. Not to mention the fact that his valves may have got stuffed up in the process.
6. I hope I will see an improvement in my fuel consumption, and will keep you posted
7. My little salute to "Shrek" my green 109 series 3 Landrover :buttrock:
8. My thanks to all of you for your opinions and advice, and if anyone one needs advice on replacing a time chain, what to do and what not to do. Give me a call.

Cheers

 

[Moeras]

CONGRATS MAN

Always nice to help a guy to a happy ending. You may now consider yourself a fully fledged Series mac...

 

[Jayce]

Thanks Moeras

Fully fledged..............I dont know, but one thing is for sure, I am pretty confident about tackling any job that comes my way. Having successfully negotiated this, I am keen to give my wiring a check. I am no electrical fondi, but hey conquer the areas where you are weakest first, and move on.

Cheers