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· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So you just bought a Disco and you want to some stuff on your own.

Ok. if your daring and pretty good with tools then heres a bit of help from a stealership tech.


One, the brits dont recommend a rotation.

why I dont know. Same with jaguar as well. Completely odd but its not in your maintenance package and wont be paid for.

The dealerships want you to rotate your tires. Trust us it saves you in the long run.

So you finally do decide to change a tire and find its frozen on. really common with rovers. Best bet keep a really large hammer. Pretty much like an engineers hammer. Its small but still heavy.

if you want to avoid it sometimes. Do yourself a favor and at all rotations clean the hub area and the inside of the rim where it contacts the hub.

Then add antiseize on the hub surface and around the brake rotor.

PUt it on and torque the wheels. Also avoid any on the studs. they could loosen up if you put it on. Also clean off any stud covered in penetrating lube.

Silicone spray. Its good stuff. Use it on the door seals and locks.

Keep the tire pressure as its meant to be. Unless you want to be another Ford explorer flipped on the road. Thats means check it and the spare.

The oil change aint hard. original helps. We use Castrol 5w 30 syn blend. You can probably substitute MOtorcraft 5w30 it has the same blend of synt and regular. Thats if you cant find it anywhere. replace the oil plug oring.

Ok now what about coolant. Well top it off. But it it gets down its possible tis a few things. But take a look. most coolant leaks can be spotted by a trail of coolant. anything from a throttle body gasket to old hose clamsps. And yes it could be intake as well. get yourself a flashlite and learn to identify the parts of your motor. If your not comfortable fixing it bring it too a shop. remember if you dont like the first diag. you can go somewhere else.
By the way they all use pink coolant. AKA Dexcool. Same as Chevy.

Belts. Look for alot of cracks. If they are excessive its time to change it.

check for any pulley or pump that is loose.

wires not needed unless they are getting misfires. but plugs at sixty. Use ngk. thats what we use. works well too.

Air filter. Check it at all oil changes and change when dirty. If you off road or submerge it alot change it more frequently.

Get yourself a grease gun. There are few grease fittings.

Transmission and other fluiids. If you dont access to a suction pump then dont change them. Let us do it. we got pumps that make it easy. Otherwise you are spilling fluids everywhere instead of inside the vehicle. And stick with LR stuff. It works good and its been tested off road.

Wipers. Clean them every now and them. keep the windshield clean. They are really easy. Just push the lock open and off it comes.

During the winter your rear wiper will break if you dont clean off the snow.

sorry but its plastic and somethings gotta give with alot of weight.

Your rear door. Spray some lube on the hinges and the check strap. not to mention the rear latch. They do freeze up.

Airbags. Replace the filter at 30k its under your lr light. Just a few screws. But also keep it clean of moisture. when it gets cold it will freeze and blow the fuse.

Also raise the vehicle everynow and then to make sure it goes up. Your compressor could freeze up from lack of use.
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
oh and check the brakes with the wheels off. Every 5k is what most tire manufacturers recommend.

Oh and check for leaks in axles as well. Seen a few Axle seals and axle hub seals leak.
 

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Beezel,

I need to change my lower-radiator hose. What is the best way to do this?
The Stealer wants over a $100 for this job!


I heard one of the clamps is a pain the ass to remove! Do I have to drain the coolant as if I where doing a regular coolant change, in order to replace the hose? I don't mind the hard work, my only problem is working out the air blubbles in the system.

I know I can do this! I have some tools and Rave CD but the CD doesn't always give the specific information you need.

Thanks for the input!

Hugo
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
an hours time to do the job dont sound bad. usually with those bottom hoses you can have an easy time just taking off the belt and fan and tensioner and accessing it right there.

But the biggest problem isnt the clamp its the seized hose. Especially if your saving it.

also a having a hose clamp pliers that is extended from the tool guy helps.
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
now its time for alignments.

ok you dont need a four wheel alignment. Unless your a new RR.

anyway there are two adjustments. one for the steering wheel and one for toe.

Unfornutately its not uncommon for us to see all four loose. The trackbar is the large bar in the back. Taking them off isnt hard. but you will most likely need a some heat to take it off. lots of it. And when your done antiseize on the threads.

WHen your done take it to a shop to get aligned. Make sure the steering wheel is straight when you leave.

Remember before you go to a local shop or a Sears or even you local LR dealer. most dealers have alignment racks and thats just not LR dealers. ANy manufacturer specific dealer will have one.. So call around get prices. You never know. A truck dealer might not be cheaper then say a sears because they charge you for a four wheel alignment. All you need is a two wheel alignment. Something commonly done in truck shops. And the reason you can go to other dealers is most if not all have Hunter alignment systems. They have alignment specs for a very large variety of cars. Trust me I can align my own daily driver and its a mercury at my LR dealer.
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One more thing, I dont have experience with diesels. I am sorry I dont. And most of the older ones from before the late eighties I am not really familar with. Sorry I got started later. I can ask around if need be but it might take a while.
But thats if it isnt something simple.

Also I work on the Freelanders and Range Rover. And no no diesels either.

And we got the freelander in 02. Not before. and only in the V6.
 

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Hey Beez

Why don't you post some more tips? This thread is great!

For instance, do I have to go to a dealer to get an oil filter that is compatible with my 99 Series II?
What are the spark plug part numbers for the NGK plugs??? I agree they are a fine product.
And lastly, how about viscosity and quantity of oil in the trans, diff and differentials?

////M
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
you dont have to. You can get a filter from autozone if you like. Just use the correct weight. 5w 30. For the price and durability try Motorcraft 5W30 Its actually proven to be one of the best oils out there. Trust me BG products did testing and found Motorcraft is the best. Of course if your using synthetic like in a 03RR use Mobil One.


As for part numbers I dont have access to them. Any way most fluids can be bought at a dealer. Some if not all the fluid recommendations are actually listed in your owners manual.

The trick is depends on what your replacing. For example front and rear diffs dont have to be changed for 90k unless your offroading.

many of the LR services we do mostly rely on inspections and premaintenance of key items. For example lubing door latches and rear cargo handles and latches. They routinely fail. The cargo door is the worse because it will stick and someone will fail to see its stuck and the door come open on the highway.
 

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Beezel- How 'bout I bring my 04 Disco to you when I need my next service? You actually know what you're talking about! :clap:
Seriously, can't decide which of three dealers to take it to- it's 3 hours in either direction and Albany is one of 'em. (Love your test track, BTW)
I think my rear main is going out AGAIN. ::sigh:: The pan gasket for sure is bad AGAIN ::sigh::
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Its your choice. but if you had your rear main already done and its still leaking take it back to the dealer that fixed it.

And trust me there are alot more guys in the shop that know more than me.

downside of traveling all that way is you end up waiting for any work or geting a ride to the local mall to do something. Then we hope parts are in stock and nothing bad happens.

you dont want to come to us with a ABS lite and drive three hours just to have it come on again. Sometimes when cars come from a long distance away we try to keep them overnite to make sure the problem is fixed.
 

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BEEZEL,

When I first got my Disco I I took up to the Albany dealership for some repair work. Whoever did the work was awsome. They had it for 3 days becuase they were waiting for a part, but as soon as it came in it was fixed and ready for pickup. They even cleaned a bunch of the crap off the area around the repaired section.

I usually hate going to the dealships for work, but if I ever have to take it to a dealer again Albany is the one. The service manager was very nice as well. I love the line up of cars you guys have there. Both Rovers and Jags.
 

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I met the parts manager when I was by there a few months ago- he was very cool also. I can't take my leaky 04 back to the dealer that did the repair initially, as I don't live in DC anymore. The rear doesn't leak as bad as it did before, but the front of the pan is leaking now. :mad:
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I do appreciate the favorable response but as customers of the dealership I cant get into details of work and such since customer confidentiality is the upmost important.

I apologize if this inconvenience anyone.

If you would like anymore information about service dept and or problems you are having I suggest calling the dealership personally.

Thanks

beezel
 

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Hey Beezel
Do you wanna move to Cyprus ? :lol:
I still havent had any replies to the posting I made in the Freelander forum about the job.
I could do with someone of your calibre !
Cheers
Steve
 

· Former LR tech, Albany NY
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2,437 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
sounds quite tempting. Unfortunately I am planning to move to Australia.

And I do have one handicap. I havent worked on LR diesels.
 

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L.A is the Place

how about moving to Southern California.
we can use a independant shop here, I know you will have big busness.. :)
 

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now its time for alignments.

ok you dont need a four wheel alignment. Unless your a new RR.

anyway there are two adjustments. one for the steering wheel and one for toe.

Unfornutately its not uncommon for us to see all four loose. The trackbar is the large bar in the back. Taking them off isnt hard. but you will most likely need a some heat to take it off. lots of it. And when your done antiseize on the threads.

WHen your done take it to a shop to get aligned. Make sure the steering wheel is straight when you leave.

Remember before you go to a local shop or a Sears or even you local LR dealer. most dealers have alignment racks and thats just not LR dealers. ANy manufacturer specific dealer will have one.. So call around get prices. You never know. A truck dealer might not be cheaper then say a sears because they charge you for a four wheel alignment. All you need is a two wheel alignment. Something commonly done in truck shops. And the reason you can go to other dealers is most if not all have Hunter alignment systems. They have alignment specs for a very large variety of cars. Trust me I can align my own daily driver and its a mercury at my LR dealer.

Hey I was just about to call somebody this morning. I have an alignment in my groupon cart from yesterday. I couldn’t find a post that answered my question for a while. Then I found yours. Thank you. I didn’t want to wake Disco Mike up on Christmas Eve. The ReverendALC was probably gonna get the nod. Lol. Anyway. It isn’t but $30. I may go ahead and do it cause it is at meineke and they can do a good exhaust inspect. I am up for the TX 2 step: inspection and license. I just really wanted a bit of knowledge do I can check their work. It isn’t out of alignment but I did put tires on last month and this deal rotates them too. And I got an oil change as well, same place. It is cool and so I am doing the $18 semi-synthetic oil and filter changes each month. Until March.
I paid 14.75 for the last one, plus 5 for the extra quart. And 2 miles from my house.

One real issue I have is water out of the exhaust. I don’t drive it but 30-40 miles a week max. If that. I gotta take it on longer trips. I live right in the center of Austin. Everything is really walking distance. My oil looks super sweet though. It is is still so fresh. Anyway. I just know in time this results in problems I think.

- Here is a good one, I can drive to NYC and pay $75 for a rubber mat, and pick it up. Lol. (Somebody found parts in the garage I read. He sure is NOT gonna pay postage!) Lmao too funny! I think his cousin told him, “I hate you.” I usually crack myself up, but you all have been helping out in that area lately. Fun. I get tickled.

Merry Christmas. All you guys are a blessing. I pray you have warmth, good food, fellowship, and you and your families are healthy and safe. Lord bless and keep us. Happy Holidays! Thanks again.-Jim
 
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