Land Rover and Range Rover Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I needed to replace the v/c gaskets on the truck so I looked around a bit to familiarize myself with this particular job and WOW did I find some incorrectly repaired items. Silicone sealant, JB Weld, missing bolts, finger tight bolts, seemed like it went on and on and on. I quizzed my brother from which I bought the thing, he referred me to his twin, who bought it from a Dr. in Houston who bought it new in 99, none of these guys would have tackled a job like this for a lack of time, tools and experienced which brings it to the shop in Houston that replaced the head gaskets. I don't trust this was accomplished correctly based upon these other incorrect finds but until something occurs forcing a head gasket repair, I'm leaving that alone.
More intake leaks behind the MAF than one can imagine, it's no wonder there are intermittent check engines, poor fuel efficiency and noise, the intake hose had a beer cap and silicone globed where a lower canister attaches to block off the leak. Oh well, I've vented and will now set about repairing the deficiencies. I do believe that when finished this will be a fun vehicle to tow my boat and play on my brothers property back home in the Florida panhandle, enjoy your Sunday!:wave:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
255 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I finished with a trip to Lowe's for a couple of brass pipe thread nipple fittings to replace the plastic re-glued things and epoxy. Smooth 650 rpm idle, with the cable set properly now; no Check Engine light and no more dripping oil topside.

I removed the throttle to repair an air bypass inlet finding no paper gasket, I'm not surprised, more finger tight fasteners.
So it's off to diagnose the cruise control, the switch is powering up, brake switch is good and the vacuum line is renewed. Can you tell me if there is reliability situation with the servo, It will hold vacuum with a mighty vac. Pulled the right front door card to find a custom cut schedule 40 PVC pipe bracing the window up, new regulator prehistoric motor...aye, aye, aye, looking forward to the lock servo modifications jeez.

Site searching to do, anyone want to chime in on other items to look for, please feel free to do so. BTW I have purchased parts from Atlantic, anyone had better success elsewhere?

Stay Safe
Doug
 

·
certified idiot
Joined
·
694 Posts
Take the bolts back out and dope em up with loctite

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
DB x 2
take out the bolts, blow the hole out with brake cleaner to get the oil residue out - put loctite blue on the bolts and torque to 6 lb ft. the vale gasket has built in spacer rings and needs to be torqued down properly. Once done right they wont come undone again. I was always tightening mine and then was told to do it right and have not had to touch them again.

The lower bolts are the problem ones for leaking but if you want to do all of them you have to remove the upper intake manifold - while that's off re-torque the rear lower manifold bolts - they also seem to back out and people often confuse a water leak at the back from the lower intake manifold as a shot head gasket.

cheers
Barri
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top