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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
Good Evening ppl hopefully someone can help me. It turns out I replaced the abs solenoids that are located at the bottom of the abs control unit because I was randomly getting the 3 amigos. I went off roading today and when I was going up hill through some bumps it seemed as it the truck was braking on its own while the front left tire was spinning freely, and the TC did not engage nor did the TC light even come on. No 3 amigos lights are on. Also when I make a sharp left turn and go down a bump or something it feels as it brakes by it self, it's really weird. DO
ones anyone here have a clue on what's going on? Thanks for your help.

I have code from ABS amigo previous fault 035: rear right valve open circuit.
 

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Hi, you have to read the ABS sensor's stationary voltage inputs cos there is a missballance between theyr's inputs while driving but you can't read those and if one of them is different than the others you should change it even if it's not faulty for good. That braking you feel is actually the TC which kicks in shortly without bringing on the warning light, quite common. If you had above 3000 rpm when the TC didnt kick in while a wheel was spinning that's the reason cos it's not explained anywhere but the TC doesnt kick in at high rpms, that's how it was conceived cos it could be dangerous if the TC kicks in at a high speeds, to make the TC to work you must keep around 2500 rpm steady and let it do it's job, it doesnt react well to throttle pushings.

Did you change a wheel hub recently? if you did and you bought a cheap one it's possible to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring and then that's the problem

As about the 035 fault code it's about a valve in the ABS modulator, that diagnostic tool should have be more specific if it's inlet or outlet valve but as long as the 3 amigos are not on that fault is not present anymore
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi, you have to read the ABS sensor's stationary voltage inputs cos there is a missballance between theyr's inputs while driving but you can't read those and if one of them is different than the others you should change it even if it's not faulty for good. That braking you feel is actually the TC which kicks in shortly without bringing on the warning light, quite common. If you had above 3000 rpm when the TC didnt kick in while a wheel was spinning that's the reason cos it's not explained anywhere but the TC doesnt kick in at high rpms, that's how it was conceived cos it could be dangerous if the TC kicks in at a high speeds, to make the TC to work you must keep around 2500 rpm steady and let it do it's job, it doesnt react well to throttle pushings.

Did you change a wheel hub recently? if you did and you bought a cheap one it's possible to have the wrong number of teeth on the reluctor ring and then that's the problem

As about the 035 fault code it's about a valve in the ABS modulator, that diagnostic tool should have be more specific if it's inlet or outlet valve but as long as the 3 amigos are not on that fault is not present anymore
No, I have not replaced any hubs, I did a 2" lift
As far as going over 2500 rpm I don't think I was I was going uphill very slow, and the tires were sliding, and no sign of tc
 

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Those codes are hystorical now as long as the 3 amigos are not on, shuttle valve is about the switch pack which you replaced... if wheels are spinning at a constant rpm and the TC doesnt kick in can be an ECU misbehaviour as long as the rpm was not high and it was constant... though going uphill very slow doesnt mean that the rpm is low especially if it's in 1st or 2nd gear. Next time keep steady 2500 rpm and see how the TC behaves then
 

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If you keep getting the SVS fault code you have to do the so called "option B" wiring mod cos the switch pack doesnt cure the internal problem of the modulator but if the outlet valve code comes back you need another modulator cos the OVs misbehaviour can affect theTC activity
 
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